Installing US Stove Hotblast

 
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LsFarm
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Post by LsFarm » Tue. Dec. 25, 2007 3:57 am

First, how tall is the chimney?? what inside diameter is the chimney?? The easiest way to install the baro damper is to put in a tee in a straight stretch of fluepipe and add the baro to the opening. Follow the directions for the install, it must be vertical on the face, and the pivot pins must be horizontal. Take a look at the many photos on the 'pictures of your stove' thread in the 'favorites' forum. These will help.

Installing a manual damper is just as easy as you describe.. but unless you have a very tall chimney with very strong draft, or have a manometer to be able to measure the draft in your chimney and stove, I'd leave the manual damper out for now. You MAY want to use one later, as you learn the characteristics of your chimney and stove. But one of the many issues with a wood/coal combo stove/furnace like yours is having enough draft. I wouldn't put a draft reducing / air flow reducing item [manual damper] in your chimney yet, wait till you find out if you need it. The baro is a draft controlling item, and once set will be automatic.

Sounds like you are making lots of progress. And will have your first fire for a Chirstmas pressent. Congratulations!!

Hope all goes well. Have a warm, and Merry Christmas.

Greg L

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crck
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Post by crck » Tue. Dec. 25, 2007 8:08 pm

Here is the stove pipe inside,its deceptive,it looks like its real close to the back wall but its 30 inches away from it,actually 31"
Image

 
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Post by crck » Tue. Dec. 25, 2007 8:28 pm

Sorry about the size on that...WOW
I got a new camera for Christmas and I am still learning....
my other camera never made any THAT size

This one is of the outside chimney
I giggled when It said "unless you have a really tall chimney"
This looks way to tall to me but my X and his brother put it up and they insisted
The put some stuff on to stablize it in the wind and it must have worked cause it didn't budge
in the storm the other nite,50 mph gusts
hope this picture is smaller,I did a resize
Image

 
crck
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Post by crck » Tue. Dec. 25, 2007 8:35 pm

Those pictures are still BIG

I think I am going to put in both the baro and manual damper
I can just let the manual stay wide open unless I need it
I'd rather do it now than have to shut it down to install it later

Going to look for the black stove pipe T tomorrow
Never seen one

 
cowentz
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Post by cowentz » Wed. Dec. 26, 2007 4:14 pm

I was wondering how it is going with the hot blast furnace. Did you use it to burn coal yet? I am considering buying one for my house to burn anthracite coal, but a lot of people here talk bad about them. Can coal be sucessfully burned in these with out too much trouble other then adding a draft inducer kit?

 
crck
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Post by crck » Thu. Dec. 27, 2007 11:54 am

Well,I started it up yesterday,took a while but got the coal going,had a nice bed of coals ....went to take a nap before work,laying in bed ,I all of a sudden felt air movement....THE BLOWER WAS KICKING OUT HEAT...I was so excited I couldn't sleep.
I had it going good when I left for work(around 5pm,and there were still good coals when I got home around 8am
BUT
I still can't get it burning like yesterday
I don't want to add coal unless its burning well
I seems like as soon as I shut the ash door it dies down too low
I added some wood,ash door is open,and I keep checking it so I can add more coal
Also ,when it was burning well it didn't seem to put out a lot of heat
Wondering if its going up the chimney

also
what are those skinny lever things on the blowers?
are they to adjust when the blower comes on?
I moved them but didn't see anything happen

I have to go to sleep but don't want to sleep with that ash door open.......

note, I did buy another CM detector,so there is one on both levels of the house

 
titleist1
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Post by titleist1 » Thu. Dec. 27, 2007 12:22 pm

I am sure some of the USS owners will chime in here, but some put a blower on the ash pan door to increase the combustion air getting to the coal so it would burn better. There are a couple pictures in some of the other threads, but it involved cutting a hole in the door and wiring in a thermostat to make it automatic. One user removed the ash pan to improve air circulation. He then cut the back off the pan and uses it as a shovel to scoop out the ash when he cleans out the stove. Some of these suggestions may help with your installation, others may not be necessary.


 
crck
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Post by crck » Thu. Dec. 27, 2007 4:46 pm

It went out....I'll try again Saturday

 
New York Bear
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Post by New York Bear » Thu. Dec. 27, 2007 5:53 pm

Looks like you are making real good progress. I think the biggest most important thing people will suggest, is you need a deep bed of coal when you get it going again. Its not like wood where you can control fire with amount of fuel, rather with coal, you control with amount of air coming in under coal. If I remember, the Hotblast also has air control above fire box, if so, that needs to be closed for coal. OK, others chime in with more information, we gots ta get her warm, and make a true convert of her!

 
lincolnmania
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Post by lincolnmania » Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 7:05 am

15 hours is a long time for a hand fired stove to run while you are away at work........it's possible, but you need to have the stove cut back and have a deep bed of coals.....also you don't want to shake the ash till you get alot of coals.....if the fire gets to hot near the grates they warp......get the fire going good and fill it up with coal, let it go a few minutes, and then cut it back and go to work......see if that works for you......when you get home you will have to poke it and shake it and add coal and give it some air....remember burning coal feeds air from the bottom of the stove

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 8:58 am

lincolnmania wrote:when you get home you will have to poke it and shake it and add coal and give it some air....
Give it air first, before you touch the fire. You want to open the draft and put a 100-150* more in the stack before you play with the fire. Shaking a cold fire will kill it. If its real low, you will need to treat it like a fresh start, go easy with loading the coal until the fire is more robust.

One thing I do is always open the ashpan and rev the fire a 100* or more (thermo on the stack). How fast it responds will tell you how healthy your fire is. The slower it reacts, the more attention it will need.

 
crck
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Post by crck » Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 11:25 am

there was quite a bit of coal in there....what do I do with it?
I can't restart it with so much coal in it.Can I reuse it?

I'm thinking blower on the door...
Where do I get a blower?
Loews and HD don't have anything
How would you even mount it on there?
Or would a cold air intake be better?
I saw a duct fan maybe I could hook that up with a timer....

Going to bed to dream of someday being warm.......

 
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av8r
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Post by av8r » Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 11:49 am

Here's an example of what you'd want for a combustion blower. I've been told you only need around 30 CFM for coal, but that may not be correct for your furnace.
To mount it simply cut a hole in the door large enough for the output opening on the blower and drill 4 mounting holes to bolt it up.

http://www.emotorpro.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIE ... rodID=3586

Image

 
dirvine96
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Post by dirvine96 » Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 2:17 pm

I've got the whole blower set up from US Stove. I'll give ya a good price on it.

Don

 
titleist1
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Post by titleist1 » Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:08 pm

US Stove Hot Blast Furnace Problems

Here is a link to a previous thread that has about 6 pictures of a US Stove with the combustion blower on the door.


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