Stove Pipe Direction

 
KLook
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Post by KLook » Wed. Dec. 26, 2012 7:32 pm

Re: Stove pipe direction Howdy, I was hoping you could tell me why the instruction manual in my woodstove says to mount chimney pipe with the crimp towards the stove? It looks to me that you would want to funnel the smoke towards the chimney instead of away from it. The info is on page 5, figure 2, of the Jotul 3 CB woodstove. I have read the same instructions on a previous stove I owned. The only thing I can figure is when your stove is smoldering this would keep your condensation from dripping out into your house. Please explain if you can. Thanks, Bob

Answer:

You got it. Water contains 20%+ moisture and if you ran the pipes the other way you'd have a smelly house. Since the chimney maintains a negative draft (suction) it really should not matter as far as smoking. Correct installation calls for using furnace cement and screws on the stovepipe joints.
And another one.

Kevin

 
KLook
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Post by KLook » Wed. Dec. 26, 2012 7:43 pm

I went to the NFPA site and I could not get any info because I am not a "professional" or a "public official". One of you professionals will have to access the top secret archives to get the restricted info about installing stove pipe correctly. :shock:

Kevin

 
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SMITTY
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Post by SMITTY » Wed. Dec. 26, 2012 7:53 pm

My pipe is this way.

Why? Not because it's "right", but because it's how the damn pipe fit together. ;)

 
KLook
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Post by KLook » Wed. Dec. 26, 2012 8:00 pm

I don't see any screws in that pipe!! :shock: The black suv's are rolling again to Smitty's! :(

KEvin


 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Wed. Dec. 26, 2012 8:36 pm

Yeah, and the thermometer on the ribbed 90 isn't gonna be accurate either!! Wheres the coal stove police!!

 
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Post by Dann757 » Wed. Dec. 26, 2012 8:49 pm

KLook wrote:You got it. Water contains 20%+ moisture and if you ran the pipes the other way you'd have a smelly house.
HAHAHAHA water contains 20% moisture. :lol:

I thought the ground prong facing up was new code- somehow a magical bare copper wire could slide down the wall and go across the hot and neutral prongs of a loosely plugged in appliance, so the ground prong facing up acts as a block to that scenario. I dunno.

Here's my hack stack. I don't know if there's anything correct or efficient about it. I thought about switching to 6" pipe from this 8". I don't even use the draft inducer more than twice a year. This is cheap Lowes black pipe. The 8" pipe fit into the oval outlet with some persuasion. The joints on the flexible elbows are male up, and hence I get a little fly ash coming out of them recently. I pop riveted everything even the flexible elbow joints. The baro is set in a tee with two male ends for further confusion. I adjust the baro constantly, don't know if it's too close to the stove, don't know if the Dwyer is in the right place, etc.

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KLook
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Post by KLook » Wed. Dec. 26, 2012 9:58 pm

HAHAHAHA water contains 20% moisture. :lol:
Yeah, wasn't that a hoot! Wondered how long it would go before some sharpy saw it.
At least you have an upward slope so that exhaust slides up the pipe better.
Set that Baro and forget it. Little to much, little to little, so what?

Kevin

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Thu. Dec. 27, 2012 12:22 am

So, the flue exit on my stove has a male connection and the support box in the ceiling has a male connection. So the lower half of my flue has the male connections up, and the upper half of my flue has male connections down. Since I couldn't find a pipe with 2 female ends I had to cut the male end off of one of my sections to get the pipe to fit! So the proper way to hook up a flue would be...whatever works!


 
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Post by tekflight » Tue. Feb. 25, 2014 2:02 pm

I've been burning wood for about 40 years. Only heat in a New England house. Never had creosote running down the metal stovepipe using both catalytic and my own redneck stove for over 30 years. Creosote in chimney is another issue. Always ran pipe the way you would with any normal fluid or gas - male end towards the "end" - the "outside" - female to male in direction of flow - minimize possibility of gas getting into house. If you have creosote problems - that is another issue. I'd not like to run a stove that created in stove pipe as an issue. Good wood, good draft, smart firing of stove and if you get creosote, it will most likely be from condensation in chimney and slow burns in warm weather. It shouldn't get into the metal pipe from stove to chimney.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Tue. Feb. 25, 2014 2:47 pm

My first coal stove installation was a small potbelly stove in the finished basement of my house on the South shore of Long Island. Burned both hard wood and hard coal in it.

I thought like some, the smoke going up stays in the pipe better if the male connection is the upper end of each pipe.

Because of the very damp climate there, within a couple of weeks I had a mixture of white ash "muck" and creosote dripping out of every joint. With streaks of it down each section of the single wall pipe inside the house. Wife was VERY unpleased with my work !!! :mad:

From then on, I've always installed single wall pipe with the male end of the pipe at the lower end so that anything that comes down the pipe, stays in the pipe. And no true horizontal sections - I always make sure there is some slope.

After that, no more leaks, no dust, and no smoke !

Paul

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Feb. 25, 2014 3:09 pm

Indeed SB, old school has always been male end down--wood, coal, whatever :)

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Feb. 25, 2014 3:10 pm

I musta missed this post Kevin---NICE-- :clap: toothy
KLook wrote:I went to the NFPA site and I could not get any info because I am not a "professional" or a "public official". One of you professionals will have to access the top secret archives to get the restricted info about installing stove pipe correctly. :shock:

Kevin

 
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Stoker6268
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Post by Stoker6268 » Tue. Feb. 25, 2014 3:19 pm

Hitzer- male end toward stove. Thats the way they tell you and the only way it fits.

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