Hello all,
Replaced the door gasket on my hot air furnace last month before lighting, but the doors don't close as tightly as the should (or used to). Used 1/2" rope (as I'm pretty sure I did before, when I replaced them in January 2011). The 1/2" size fits nicely in the channel on the doors, snug but not forcibly tight. There was a slight residue from the old glue/fiberglass, but don't think it was enough to cause issue. Had no good way to clean down in the channel .
Thinking of swapping it with 3/8" to see if the doors close more securely, but really hate to shut down if I don't have to. Has anyone resealed with a fire burning? Usually use the Rutland gasket cement. I know they say cold stove, just looking to see who's been brave enough to try it. Plan to use foil or similar to cover the openings so I don't overfire her.
Thanks in advance,
Joe
Replacing Door Gaskets While Burning?
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You will have to shut it down.
Even if you don't mind smoke going in the house the warm metal will make the gasket cement set up too quickly.
Even if you don't mind smoke going in the house the warm metal will make the gasket cement set up too quickly.
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The gasket is so thick that the door doesn't completely latch. It stays shut because of the friction in the latch, but it isn't where it should be.jpete wrote:How is a smaller gasket going to make the door shut tighter?
Joe
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If the gasket is making contact fairly evenly all around, and is not binding at the hinge end, you could just give it more time. I found that over the course of a couple months new gaskets gradually compressed. Eventually there was very little pressure on the latch, practically none, but the seal still worked well.jschaefer7406 wrote:The gasket is so thick that the door doesn't completely latch. It stays shut because of the friction in the latch, but it isn't where it should be.
However, I did have a problem with my DS Machine where the gasket was too thick at the hinge end, and stretched out thin at several other places. It was very difficult to close the door and get the latch end to seal. That required re-gasketing, and I did shut down to do it.
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Sometimes you can take a piece of thin metal (1/8" or so) and slid it under the hinge side of the door and close/slam the door down on it carefully (to gain a little extra space on the hinge side), I would try this before replacing to a smaller gasket, ive done this successfully 100 times over the years on many products! its a great lil' trick that really works!rberq wrote:If the gasket is making contact fairly evenly all around, and is not binding at the hinge end, you could just give it more time. I found that over the course of a couple months new gaskets gradually compressed. Eventually there was very little pressure on the latch, practically none, but the seal still worked well.jschaefer7406 wrote:The gasket is so thick that the door doesn't completely latch. It stays shut because of the friction in the latch, but it isn't where it should be.
However, I did have a problem with my DS Machine where the gasket was too thick at the hinge end, and stretched out thin at several other places. It was very difficult to close the door and get the latch end to seal. That required re-gasketing, and I did shut down to do it.