Replacing Door Gaskets While Burning?

Modern and vintage hand fired coal stove are similar to a wood stove and in some cases can burn either. They need to be regulated and fed by hand usually every 12 to 24 hours depending on your usage. They require no power to operate making them ideal for rural settings with long power outages.
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jschaefer7406
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Joined: Wed. Dec. 29, 2010 1:42 am
Stove/Furnace Make: Kogen
Stove/Furnace Model: Keystoner

Post Sun. Dec. 09, 2012 2:19 am

Hello all,

Replaced the door gasket on my hot air furnace last month before lighting, but the doors don't close as tightly as the should (or used to). Used 1/2" rope (as I'm pretty sure I did before, when I replaced them in January 2011). The 1/2" size fits nicely in the channel on the doors, snug but not forcibly tight. There was a slight residue from the old glue/fiberglass, but don't think it was enough to cause issue. Had no good way to clean down in the channel :(.

Thinking of swapping it with 3/8" to see if the doors close more securely, but really hate to shut down if I don't have to. Has anyone resealed with a fire burning? Usually use the Rutland gasket cement. I know they say cold stove, just looking to see who's been brave enough to try it. Plan to use foil or similar to cover the openings so I don't overfire her.

Thanks in advance,

Joe

NoSmoke
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Joined: Sun. Oct. 14, 2012 7:52 pm
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: New Yoker WC90
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Woods and Bishop Antique Pot Bellied Stove
Coal Size/Type: Stove/Nut/Pea Anthracite
Other Heating: Munchkin LP Boiler (Back-up)
Location: Mid Coast Maine

Post Sun. Dec. 09, 2012 5:52 am

You will have to shut it down.

Even if you don't mind smoke going in the house the warm metal will make the gasket cement set up too quickly.

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jpete
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mk II
Coal Size/Type: Stove, Nut, Pea
Other Heating: Dino juice
Location: Warwick, RI

Post Sun. Dec. 09, 2012 7:06 am

How is a smaller gasket going to make the door shut tighter?
Jeff

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jschaefer7406
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Posts: 68
Joined: Wed. Dec. 29, 2010 1:42 am
Stove/Furnace Make: Kogen
Stove/Furnace Model: Keystoner

Post Sun. Dec. 09, 2012 8:01 am

jpete wrote:How is a smaller gasket going to make the door shut tighter?
The gasket is so thick that the door doesn't completely latch. It stays shut because of the friction in the latch, but it isn't where it should be.

Joe

rberq
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Posts: 5013
Joined: Mon. Apr. 16, 2007 9:34 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300 with hopper
Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Anthracite Nut
Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators (fuel oil); propane
Location: Central Maine

Post Sun. Dec. 09, 2012 9:55 am

jschaefer7406 wrote:The gasket is so thick that the door doesn't completely latch. It stays shut because of the friction in the latch, but it isn't where it should be.
If the gasket is making contact fairly evenly all around, and is not binding at the hinge end, you could just give it more time. I found that over the course of a couple months new gaskets gradually compressed. Eventually there was very little pressure on the latch, practically none, but the seal still worked well.

However, I did have a problem with my DS Machine where the gasket was too thick at the hinge end, and stretched out thin at several other places. It was very difficult to close the door and get the latch end to seal. That required re-gasketing, and I did shut down to do it.
Simple answers for simple minds.

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dcrane
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404
Location: Duxbury, MA./Hanson MA./Brockton, MA

Post Wed. Dec. 26, 2012 7:36 am

rberq wrote:
jschaefer7406 wrote:The gasket is so thick that the door doesn't completely latch. It stays shut because of the friction in the latch, but it isn't where it should be.
If the gasket is making contact fairly evenly all around, and is not binding at the hinge end, you could just give it more time. I found that over the course of a couple months new gaskets gradually compressed. Eventually there was very little pressure on the latch, practically none, but the seal still worked well.

However, I did have a problem with my DS Machine where the gasket was too thick at the hinge end, and stretched out thin at several other places. It was very difficult to close the door and get the latch end to seal. That required re-gasketing, and I did shut down to do it.
Sometimes you can take a piece of thin metal (1/8" or so) and slid it under the hinge side of the door and close/slam the door down on it carefully (to gain a little extra space on the hinge side), I would try this before replacing to a smaller gasket, ive done this successfully 100 times over the years on many products! its a great lil' trick that really works!

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