Harman 1 First Fire

Modern and vintage hand fired coal stove are similar to a wood stove and in some cases can burn either. They need to be regulated and fed by hand usually every 12 to 24 hours depending on your usage. They require no power to operate making them ideal for rural settings with long power outages.
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Chuck_Steak
Member
Posts: 386
Joined: Wed. Jan. 06, 2010 9:03 pm
Coal Size/Type: mostly nut, sometimes stove, Santa brand
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: Mark III
Location: New Hampster

Post Sat. Dec. 07, 2013 6:19 pm

I agree, that it is pointless to give certain details
as "fact"..
How many turns... baro.. no baro... MPD... no MPD...
.03.... .06
There are no hardfast one size fits all numbers... :roll:

Dan
Thank God for the moon...
It gives us light at night, when we need it.
Not like the sun that gives us light in the daytime,
when we don't need it.

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SMITTY
Member
Posts: 11914
Joined: Sun. Dec. 11, 2005 12:43 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: Patriot Coal - (custom built by Jim Dorsey, Taunton MA - RIP 4/18/13)
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mark III (SOLD!)
Coal Size/Type: Rice / Blaschak anthracite
Other Heating: Oil fired Burnham boiler
Location: West-Central Mass

Post Sat. Dec. 07, 2013 6:25 pm

100% correct. What works for one guy would make the fire go out, using my chimney.

In reading the posts from '12 ... the OP didn't mention if he was running the convection blower or not. That makes a HUGE difference in the Mark Series stove's stack temp. I've seen the temp drop 100° just by turning the blower on. Really takes the heat out of the chimney and puts it where you want it.
The laws that forbid the carrying of arms...disarm only those who are
neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes. ...Such laws make things worse
for the assaulted and better for the assailants, they serve rather to
encourage than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with
greater confidence than an armed man."

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Crimes and Punishment."

User avatar
dcrane
Verified Business Rep.
Posts: 3115
Joined: Sun. Apr. 22, 2012 9:28 am
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404
Location: Duxbury, MA./Hanson MA./Brockton, MA

Post Sat. Dec. 07, 2013 10:13 pm

titleist1 wrote:oh my....where to start..... :roll:

never mind I got too much to do today and gotta get started.....cant wait to read this later tonight though! :lol:
Yep... im with titleist on this one :lol:

Visit Hitzer Stoves

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titleist1
Member
Posts: 4404
Joined: Wed. Nov. 14, 2007 4:06 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harman Mag Stoker (old style) one in basement, one in workshop
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mark III on standby for long power outages
Coal Size/Type: Rice/Anthracite; Nut/Anthracite
Location: Cecil County, MD

Post Sun. Dec. 08, 2013 8:39 am

I wasn't going to bother, but in case someone new to coal burning is reading these threads its I feel its important to give some corrections for future reference.

There are some generalities that are stated as fact that need to be corrected. Individual stove/chimney/house location/lot topography will give the same stove its own 'personality' with respect to draft from one house to another. And where the sweet spot is for the spinner knob and whether an mpd and/or baro gives the best performance will differ from one house to another. We post our draft numbers, stove / stack temps, damper usage (or not) and spinner knob settings as a starting point for new users to begin making their own adjustments and to show through experience there is no one single answer.

To repeat someone else, the internal baffle plate is not even close to an mpd.
The statement that you don't need a baro because of the spinner knob on Mark I contradicts what the Harman manual itself states..."A barometric damper may be installed to prevent excessive or erratic draft."

I burned with a mark III (with a baro, no mpd) for about 20 years and agree its built like a tank with its 1/4" construction. I still have one sitting in the corner of the basement waiting for the week long power outage that will cause me to swap out the stoker for it. Overall I was very pleased with it and the money saved by heating with coal, but it has its weaknesses with respect to coal burning compared to other units that should be mentioned for 'completeness'.

No secondary air control, no bi metallic air control, and the need to 'scrape' the front & sides of the fire box to thoroughly get rid of the ash there about once per two weeks indicate a less than ideal design. The other weak design feature is the ash pan dimension compared to the grate area. You need to have a flat ash shovel to clean out the sides of the ash pan area about once a week or more. The fact that it has to use a fan to get the most heat off it and into the room should tell you something. Getting the fly ash off the top of that baffle plate is real fun too. And you better do it because if you don't shut down occasionally and wedge a vac hose up there it really hurts the heat transfer from the firebox to the distribution air flow channels. Leaving the fly ash up there in the off season will eventually degrade the baffle plate severely and could cause it to warp.

The service from them was poor in the case where I needed it. On my second Mark III the linkage from the shaker arm to the grates had a poor weld that broke after about two weeks of use. The grates were never jammed in this two week usage so it wasn't misuse, you could see where they missed the weld point. After about a week of daily calls to the dealer and directly to Harman I finally dragged it out of them that their solution was to have me, not the dealer, arrange to have it fixed, pay for it myself and submit the bill to be paid back. I had to find the local welder that would make a house call because I had no interest in wrestling it back up the steps from the basement, load it on the truck and reverse the process after the weld was fixed. I have a network of people with these skills so I had no problem arranging it, but I wonder if a 'regular' user would have the contacts to do this and why wouldn't the dealer or Harman have taken the lead on fixing this two week old stove. It only took about 8 weeks if I remember correctly of constantly calling to get the reimbursement check from them. I have no doubt if I had not badgered them with calls I would never have seen the check, I was less than impressed with how they handled this.
I drive a VW TDI, heat my home & workshop with two coal stokers and have two vintage JD diesel tractors....
The EPA just loves me!!

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blrman07
Member
Posts: 2379
Joined: Mon. Sep. 27, 2010 3:39 pm
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Bucket a Day
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vigilant Casting 2310
Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Wood in the VC and anything that will fit in the Bucket a Day. It's not fussy.
Location: Girardville Pa.

Post Sun. Dec. 08, 2013 8:55 am

Coalcracker by chance are you a Harman rep?

Your post read like a Harman brochure with the descriptions you used.

How about filling in the remainder of your avatar. Like Fred says...We ain't gonna steal ya...

Just asking.

Rev. Larry
Rev. Larry
Ashland Pa.

1 John 1:9... If we sin and we confess that sin He is faithful and just and will forgive us and cleanse us from all unrighteousness.

User avatar
dcrane
Verified Business Rep.
Posts: 3115
Joined: Sun. Apr. 22, 2012 9:28 am
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404
Location: Duxbury, MA./Hanson MA./Brockton, MA

Post Sun. Dec. 08, 2013 10:18 am

titleist1 wrote:I wasn't going to bother, but in case someone new to coal burning is reading these threads its I feel its important to give some corrections for future reference.

There are some generalities that are stated as fact that need to be corrected. Individual stove/chimney/house location/lot topography will give the same stove its own 'personality' with respect to draft from one house to another. And where the sweet spot is for the spinner knob and whether an mpd and/or baro gives the best performance will differ from one house to another. We post our draft numbers, stove / stack temps, damper usage (or not) and spinner knob settings as a starting point for new users to begin making their own adjustments and to show through experience there is no one single answer.

To repeat someone else, the internal baffle plate is not even close to an mpd.
The statement that you don't need a baro because of the spinner knob on Mark I contradicts what the Harman manual itself states..."A barometric damper may be installed to prevent excessive or erratic draft."

I burned with a mark III (with a baro, no mpd) for about 20 years and agree its built like a tank with its 1/4" construction. I still have one sitting in the corner of the basement waiting for the week long power outage that will cause me to swap out the stoker for it. Overall I was very pleased with it and the money saved by heating with coal, but it has its weaknesses with respect to coal burning compared to other units that should be mentioned for 'completeness'.

No secondary air control, no bi metallic air control, and the need to 'scrape' the front & sides of the fire box to thoroughly get rid of the ash there about once per two weeks indicate a less than ideal design. The other weak design feature is the ash pan dimension compared to the grate area. You need to have a flat ash shovel to clean out the sides of the ash pan area about once a week or more. The fact that it has to use a fan to get the most heat off it and into the room should tell you something. Getting the fly ash off the top of that baffle plate is real fun too. And you better do it because if you don't shut down occasionally and wedge a vac hose up there it really hurts the heat transfer from the firebox to the distribution air flow channels. Leaving the fly ash up there in the off season will eventually degrade the baffle plate severely and could cause it to warp.

The service from them was poor in the case where I needed it. On my second Mark III the linkage from the shaker arm to the grates had a poor weld that broke after about two weeks of use. The grates were never jammed in this two week usage so it wasn't misuse, you could see where they missed the weld point. After about a week of daily calls to the dealer and directly to Harman I finally dragged it out of them that their solution was to have me, not the dealer, arrange to have it fixed, pay for it myself and submit the bill to be paid back. I had to find the local welder that would make a house call because I had no interest in wrestling it back up the steps from the basement, load it on the truck and reverse the process after the weld was fixed. I have a network of people with these skills so I had no problem arranging it, but I wonder if a 'regular' user would have the contacts to do this and why wouldn't the dealer or Harman have taken the lead on fixing this two week old stove. It only took about 8 weeks if I remember correctly of constantly calling to get the reimbursement check from them. I have no doubt if I had not badgered them with calls I would never have seen the check, I was less than impressed with how they handled this.
Im never going to be as good as Titlist at writing so well publicly (I can only hope I'd beat his ass at golf at least :( )
nice of you to take the time necessary to explain it this well... (if he's a Harman Rep than we should welcome him and let him learn more each day for the benefit of all)! that would be pretty epic if he was a rep for Harmon!

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