Manual Pipe Dampers .. How, Why, When

Unless you used a manometer to set both your baro and also your MPD, you do not know what the difference really is..

kirtsy420 wrote: ↑

Tue. Jan. 21, 2020 4:59 pm

i just installed a mpd for my alaska kodiak hand fed stove. ..... after an over night burn. my stove was still 500, my house was 74 upstairs. mind you i live in a drafting 70s farm house. but after my over night burn, i burnt less than 10 pounds of coal.

Lets say you burned 9.9 lbs. of coal overnight, and that meant 7 hours, and you got an amazing 80% efficiency.

9.9 x 12,250 x 0.80 / 7 = 13,860 BTUH per hour.

That's not much heat output for the overnight heating of an entire drafty house. Was it a warm night?

we had to have the bed room window open during the night. i woke up the at 5:30 and the house was 74. when i went to bed the house was 78. when i went to bed the stove at 515. when i got up the stove was at 485. basement still hot as can be. and when i shake my kodiak stove down i open the ash pan door and shake the grate both directions the full turn to make sure i get all as much as the ashes as i can knocked down. so i knew that next morning after installing the mpd i didnt go through much coal. topped the stove off as i was getting ready for work. shut it all down and left. my stove holds 90 to 100 pounds worth of coal. im trying and seeing what works the best. maybe because im in a deep valley with a ton of trees around me maybe that has something to do with my pipe not over drafting even on a windy day

Very interesting read.
I don't have any good tell tales concerning this. I only have 5 weeks or so experience with home heat coal in a potbelly style heater.
Interesting to read the experience and examples given here. I did install both styles of dampers and been experimenting with both. I all types of winter weather in five weeks, the Manual damper functions the best for me. I removed the barometric from the "T" and relying on the Manual itself. So far its exactly what I need.