Please Help!! Hitzer 50-93
Thanks, Eric. The hopper extends down past the firebrick, so I'm unable to load coal all the way to the top of the firebrick. I see that you have a DS. Do you like it? I think I'm going to sell the Hitzer and get a DS energy max 160 in the spring.
- Coalfire
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Don't do that, it is a wood stove that can burn coal. Unless you want to burn wood.
I like my stove, I am actually getting rid of it this saturday though, getting the next size down. it is to big for my house. I have a buddy that could really use a large stove so I am going to down size.
I did have problems with puffbacks and explosions. they came up with some louvers. You put two inplace of fire brick and It lets some extra air into the coal bed.
Over all DS is a good stove.
However your hitzer is a good stove, need to get that issue fixed first
Eric
I like my stove, I am actually getting rid of it this saturday though, getting the next size down. it is to big for my house. I have a buddy that could really use a large stove so I am going to down size.
I did have problems with puffbacks and explosions. they came up with some louvers. You put two inplace of fire brick and It lets some extra air into the coal bed.
Over all DS is a good stove.
However your hitzer is a good stove, need to get that issue fixed first
Eric
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Get the air flow right, get the heat load right. Then get a PA born and bred anthracite only stove that is controlled by a coaltrol. When the stove is in the basement and you are heating upstairs the coaltrol is king - accept no substitutes. My living areas is controlled to within 2 F all the time and usually less than that. My choice once the ducting is done right (I still see no return air setup BTW) would be an AnthraKing 220. Setup up one fire with a coaltrol for shoulder times and the second fire for those winters from hell that need a heater from hell. Me, I like overkill in life on everything. I live by it and have found that 95% of my life works best that way.Screw refined measurements.
Last edited by coalnewbie on Tue. Nov. 13, 2012 8:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Rick 386
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OK cmk,
Let's review your set up. You have the hitzer in the basement with just an open ended duct with a fan that sucks air off the ceiling above the hitzer and blows it through the ductwork to the rest of the house, right ??
Your cold air returns....... are they just open grates in the floor to the basement ??
Rick
Let's review your set up. You have the hitzer in the basement with just an open ended duct with a fan that sucks air off the ceiling above the hitzer and blows it through the ductwork to the rest of the house, right ??
Your cold air returns....... are they just open grates in the floor to the basement ??
Rick
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We had that problem too and I spent time and money on generators up the wazoo. I now think that is a big mistake and if you can (i.e. have the chimney) just connect the Hitzer up as a backup stove. So as we need to power run a thermostatically controlled stove, I would Powervent the AnthraKing and chimney connect the Hitzer. You are ready for those power outs and perhaps WW111. Belt and braces and when you need to service the stove in the dead of winter just bring up the other stove. Good for the next 20 years and any emergency. Power outages and the windchill is -30F? Candles and a lot of beer - case closed. Is this advice - no - I am an extremist and take a lot of lithium.. But I think maybe you're right. Time for something with a thermostat, and "set it and forget it"
AHHAHAHAHAHAHAHA -I slay myself.
Yes, Rick. That's exactly correct. I have two cold air returns at the opposite end of the house, which are just floor grates. The blower just draws air from around the stove and puts it into the ductwork. It does work well. I'm just trying to figure out things like the bimetal draft regulator. I don't know if it was ever set properly. I'm just new to this and trying to make sense of this coal burning business. I have no idea how much coal it should be using and what the stoves settings should be. I do know that wood is a pain, and isn't compatible with my spousal unit. As well, I cannot afford to run the propane furnace. Coal seemed like the way to go.
- Rick 386
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OK here's something really easy to try.
Try placing a fan at your cold air returns blowing down into the basement. Doesn't have to be much of a fan. By blowing the cold air down, it will naturally suck the warm air in. Works a lot better than trying to push hot air.
I went through this with my sister in law trying to get air circulation in her 2 story ranch sitting on a slab. But she is a polish blonde and can't/won't take directions well. Same thing with my stepson. we were trying to move the hot air and it didn't work well at all. Once we reversed the flow and concentrated on the cold air, it worked much, much better. It don't make sense but it works. (Actually cold air is more dense so it can be pushed easier )
You will find out that with coal it takes a lot longer to heat up a place than with wood. But with coal, slow and steady is the way to go. Most wood burners take a while to get used to that. Most of us used to be wood burners so we know. Wood is great for the ability to throw a log or 2 in the burner, open up some draft, and in 10 minutes you can feel the difference. With coal it takes longer. I used to have a huge wood burner furnace in my old shop. I could come in the morning start a fire and have heat within 15 minutes. With coal it takes me 2 hours to bring up the temp. But once that stove gets cranking, it will produce for hours.
There's a lot of good advice giving folks on here. Especially that old farmer from freetown who has a stove just like yours. You will have to start making minor changes and give it time to see if it works. If not we'll try something else but we will get it nailed down.
Now in your spare time, cut some more wood and sell it so you can buy some coal.
Rick
Try placing a fan at your cold air returns blowing down into the basement. Doesn't have to be much of a fan. By blowing the cold air down, it will naturally suck the warm air in. Works a lot better than trying to push hot air.
I went through this with my sister in law trying to get air circulation in her 2 story ranch sitting on a slab. But she is a polish blonde and can't/won't take directions well. Same thing with my stepson. we were trying to move the hot air and it didn't work well at all. Once we reversed the flow and concentrated on the cold air, it worked much, much better. It don't make sense but it works. (Actually cold air is more dense so it can be pushed easier )
You will find out that with coal it takes a lot longer to heat up a place than with wood. But with coal, slow and steady is the way to go. Most wood burners take a while to get used to that. Most of us used to be wood burners so we know. Wood is great for the ability to throw a log or 2 in the burner, open up some draft, and in 10 minutes you can feel the difference. With coal it takes longer. I used to have a huge wood burner furnace in my old shop. I could come in the morning start a fire and have heat within 15 minutes. With coal it takes me 2 hours to bring up the temp. But once that stove gets cranking, it will produce for hours.
There's a lot of good advice giving folks on here. Especially that old farmer from freetown who has a stove just like yours. You will have to start making minor changes and give it time to see if it works. If not we'll try something else but we will get it nailed down.
Now in your spare time, cut some more wood and sell it so you can buy some coal.
Rick
That's a good idea, Rick. About the fan on the cold air return and all.. Thanks for the advice from everybody. I like coal. Wood is such a pain. I used to have to turn down overtime to screw around with it. Cut it... Skid it... Haul it... Split it... Stack it... Bring it in.... Stack it again.... Insanity!!!! Lol
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Pipe the cold returns below the basement ceiling by 3 feet...
A hood over the stove to collect the heat...
The basement is too hot...
A hood over the stove to collect the heat...
The basement is too hot...
- freetown fred
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If you really want to get this straightened out--change all that 8" duct work over to 6"---think about it. Bigger is not always better---that's what she said.
- Rick 386
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Spoken like a guy that has a, uh, a , uh rather small duct.......freetown fred wrote:If you really want to get this straightened out--change all that 8" duct work over to 6"---think about it. Bigger is not always better---that's what she said.
Rick
- freetown fred
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Leave my DUCT outta this .
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I went ductless...
But still got in trouble...
But try the cold air return extensions...
The hot basment air is fighting with the cold return air as it is now setup...
But still got in trouble...
But try the cold air return extensions...
The hot basment air is fighting with the cold return air as it is now setup...