Damper Question Please

Modern and vintage hand fired coal stove are similar to a wood stove and in some cases can burn either. They need to be regulated and fed by hand usually every 12 to 24 hours depending on your usage. They require no power to operate making them ideal for rural settings with long power outages.
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joeq
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
Stove/Furnace Make: Thermopride
Stove/Furnace Model: oil fired
Location: Northern CT

Post Sun. Nov. 04, 2012 9:35 am

I've read your thread on these devices, but can't seem to find any info. My Surdiac is located to the back wall at a reduced clearance, (per NFPA), and only has a short horizontal pipe run before exiting into the wall boot. I'm talking less than 6" from the heat exchanger to the end of the 5-6" reducer, then another 5 1/2" of 6" black pipe before entering the wall boot.(Barely 10" total from the heat exchanger pipe extension to the wall boot.). It doesn't seem there are any Baros or MPD that are less than 6" long. Outside my house the Metalbestos 6" Double wall S/S pipe heads vertical to the roof. most of these damper locations seem to be installed on the interior where the stove is operating. I'm at a loss. Has anyone run across this? (Once again I apologize for the poor quality photo. If you click on the pic, it'll be a tad clearer.) thanx people.
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SMITTY
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Patriot Coal - (custom built by Jim Dorsey, Taunton MA - RIP 4/18/13)
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mark III (SOLD!)
Coal Size/Type: Rice / Blaschak anthracite
Other Heating: Oil fired Burnham boiler
Location: West-Central Mass

Post Sun. Nov. 04, 2012 9:38 am

I'd just stick a "T" in there, and install a baro on one end (coming out the side). A T would probably fill that space there .... and if not you could piece something in there with a short length of pipe and some tin snips.
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joeq
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Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
Stove/Furnace Make: Thermopride
Stove/Furnace Model: oil fired
Location: Northern CT

Post Sun. Nov. 04, 2012 9:55 am

You know Smitty, I didn't even think of cutting down the new damper. I'm sure there's probably enuff material to do this, right? I see that a simple butterfly valve can be purchased for a 6'' pipe, but I'm not sure of the quality or reliability of such a modification.When you mention a "T", I'm assuming you're referring to the entire assy, (Baro or MPD). Now I just have to decide which is better in my set-up and situation. Seems to be lots of "conflicting" opinions on this subject. Thanx for your opinion. (The "t" you speak of just clicked, but the "T" is still 6" wide, at its narrowest section, and won't work at less than 6". But I understand your thought.)
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KLook
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Harman VF 3000
Coal Size/Type: rice, bagged, Blaschak
Other Heating: Gas boiler backup/main
Stove/Furnace Model: VF 3000
Location: Chattanooga, Tenn

Post Sun. Nov. 04, 2012 10:31 am

I believe Baro's can be had that have you cut a hole in the pipe and attach the baro over it with a couple of screws. This would be better then nothing. Even if the hole is not a full 6 inches.

Kevin

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Lightning
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Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Overmodified/Bored out Clayton 1537
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Awesome Size
Location: Olean, NY

Post Sun. Nov. 04, 2012 10:42 am

I would pull the stove forward, away from the wall another 4 to 6 inches to give you room for your baro damper :idea:
But I see you have it nicely squared on the tile floor :oops:

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joeq
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
Stove/Furnace Make: Thermopride
Stove/Furnace Model: oil fired
Location: Northern CT

Post Sun. Nov. 04, 2012 5:41 pm

Kevin, there's another option you mentioned that has possibilities, attaching to the side of the existing pipe I've got. I'll have to check that out.
Lightning, you're right in that I planned the install around all these fixed dimensions, and any alterations will throw off the set-up code wise (for clearances), and aesthetics, which would kinda bug me. But your suggestion "will" definitely work, but will be a last resort. But I do appreciate your thoughts. Have a productive week.
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Razzler
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Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF520
Coal Size/Type: rice
Location: Northampton Pa.

Post Sun. Nov. 04, 2012 5:54 pm

An option just mark it cut the hole and strap it on existing pipe. http://www.patriot-supply.com/products/showitem.c ... S_02722701

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lowfog01
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Mark II & Mark I
Coal Size/Type: nut/pea
Location: Springfield, VA

Post Sun. Nov. 04, 2012 5:56 pm

SMITTY wrote:I'd just stick a "T" in there, and install a baro on one end (coming out the side). A T would probably fill that space there .... and if not you could piece something in there with a short length of pipe and some tin snips.
I also have limited space between my stove and the heat shield. We did just what Smitty is suggesting here. We used tin snips to cut a short piece of black pipe and put that into the T. My barro is 10 inches from the back of the stove and 4.5 inches from my heat shield. It's been working well for 5 years now. Good luck, Lisa
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joeq
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Posts: 3970
Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
Stove/Furnace Make: Thermopride
Stove/Furnace Model: oil fired
Location: Northern CT

Post Sun. Nov. 04, 2012 7:28 pm

Altho I'm slow to respond, (like coal burning), I'm starting to appreciate the advantages of these computers, especially forums such as this. Years ago, BC (before computers), it would've taken me weeks of library searching, and traveling to businesses and stores after work, to arrive at a satisfactory explanation of how to conquer my dilemmas. Here, in less than a weekend, you people have answered all my questions accurately, confidently, and quickly, and all I can say is Thanx. to Smitty, Kevin and Razzler(for doing the "footwork"), I think I'm gunna give that a try. To everyone else, your opinions are greatly appreciated. Isn't technology great?
Now if we could just get rid of these annoying text machines. Drives me nuts to see my/these kids with their faces buried in them.
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