New Hitzer 30-95 Dampner or Not?

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chopper698
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Post by chopper698 » Thu. Sep. 06, 2012 10:43 pm

I just picked up my new Hitzer 30-95 today
and was just wondering if I need a dampner
with this. I had a Harman Mark II before this
and always had a dampner with it to throttle
it down, my chimney is 6" double wall stainless
and drafts very well.

 
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fastcat
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Post by fastcat » Thu. Sep. 06, 2012 11:50 pm

I would use and MPD. I have both and MPD and a Baro but I keep my Baro capped closed just haven't gotten around to taking it out of the pipe yet.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Fri. Sep. 07, 2012 8:08 am

Yep, just an MPD on the old 50-93 with outstanding results. No muss, no fuss :) Put it about 30" above stove w/ T coming off the stove & clean out cap on bottom---going to replace all inside black pipe this season after 3 seasons.

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mason coal burner
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Post by mason coal burner » Fri. Sep. 07, 2012 9:41 pm

I have both MPD and barometric damper . I don't know how much difference they make .

 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Fri. Sep. 07, 2012 11:37 pm

Your stove has a thermostat to control intake air. Because of that I would go with the manual damper or none at all. The old timers would say the damper keeps more heat in the stove. It probably does act like a baffle to do this to some extent.

 
chopper698
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Post by chopper698 » Sat. Sep. 08, 2012 8:02 am

Why the temp control on the back and
the air inlets on the ash pan door?


 
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fastcat
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Post by fastcat » Sat. Sep. 08, 2012 10:43 am

The temp control on the rear will control the amount of heat you require to heat your home and keep it steady. The slide on the door will allow you to fine tune just how steady the fire will be, If you get down and open the slide slowly you will see moon phases, quarter moon half moon and wide open full moon, run the stove with about an 1/8th moon to start and you will see the flapper hooked to the temp control on the rear will stay pretty steady compaired to having the slide completly closed. Now for a couple of fixes to fine tune your stove, check the slide on the door and make sure it is fairly snug by tightening the nut on the inside of the door till you have resistance on the slide, this will let in less unwanted air. Also look at the hole in the side of the stove where your grate shaker comes through the stove, you have a square peg in a round hole unwanted air will come in to the stove giving you a hot spot in the coal right there, easy fix, go to your hardware stoor and get a flat washer with a 1" hole, file the hole in to a square that just fits over the knob sticking out your stove that the shaker handle goes on, slide the washer up against the stove. Now for your shaker handle, drill 2 holes in the square 1 in each adjoining sides and tap and put in set screws so the handle is tight against the washer and so you don't wear out the square on the handle, as you can tell the handle doesn't fit very snug. Hope this all helps and gives you a good start with your new stove.

 
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Qball
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Post by Qball » Sat. Sep. 08, 2012 4:14 pm

I used a baro on my 50-93 for five years with good results.

 
CapeCoaler
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Post by CapeCoaler » Sun. Sep. 09, 2012 1:41 am

MPD no baro on the #4...
MPD only on the 503...

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