Question About Manometer Placement

Modern and vintage hand fired coal stove are similar to a wood stove and in some cases can burn either. They need to be regulated and fed by hand usually every 12 to 24 hours depending on your usage. They require no power to operate making them ideal for rural settings with long power outages.
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Muss44
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Post Tue. Sep. 04, 2012 9:55 am

I have learned through this site that the manometer should be placed below the MPD and after the mpd you should have (depends on the person) the Baro after that. My dad's stove has a very limited amount space (about 12 inches) from the stove before it goes in the brick. Looking at the set-up, I do not think that I can fit the manometer before the damper. Would it be a terrible thing to install the manometer after the damper but before the baro??? It should still measure the pull over the fire but may be off slightly because it is after the MPD. What are your thoughts? Has anyone thought of a better idea?

Thanks

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Coalfire
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Post Tue. Sep. 04, 2012 5:00 pm

Why can't it fit before the damper? you could put it in the collar of the stove if you wanted

Eric

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fastcat
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Post Tue. Sep. 04, 2012 5:05 pm

You can't fit a 1/4 inch hole before the MPD? I guess you can put it after but the reading will be way off and not recomended. Eric you beat me.
This is only my two cents
and sometimes it is not worth that

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kstone
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Post Tue. Sep. 04, 2012 7:29 pm

1, First a manometer is a pressure gauge you can put it anywhere

2 , What are you looking to monitor with your gauge and how is your chimney and stove plumbed. Do you have both mpd and baro installed do you have a long run off pipe do you have more than 3 90's from stove to chimney ? you can use your manometer to check or set up all of theses devices or to check for fly ash in 90's or the long stretch off pipe?

3, So it is a tool or can be used as a tell tale for {i think it time to clean that section off pipe} because the manometer reading has changed

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kstone
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Post Tue. Sep. 04, 2012 7:40 pm

4, So where ever you end up installing it is correct but your choice will decide what data your gauge gives you back.

and no I have no clue why it cut off this part off my post

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Lightning
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Post Wed. Sep. 05, 2012 3:59 am

IN my expirience so far, the manometer is used to check the pressure in the firebox.
There are at least a couple good reasons for this.

1. We ALWAYS want a negative pressure in the stove/furnace so Carbon Monoxide doesn't escape into the living environment.

2. Based on the pressure in the firebox we can better adjust our draft thats feeding the fire. For example a .06 pressure will pull MORE air thru the SAME size hole (draft opening feeding the fire) than a .03 would. Keep in mind these are negative pressures. A barometric damper helps keep a more consistant draft pressure in the firebox.

So given the above conditions that we want to monitor the most, the best place to take the reading for the manometer is IN or just SHORTLY after the firebox but BEFORE the manual damper and/or barometric.. So proper sequence is Stove/Furncace - Manometer - MPD - Baro - Chimney.

Putting the manometer after the MPD will give you a false reading about the condions in the firebox. As a matter of fact, I would say this could be dangerous since you could be showing a neg pressure after the MPD, but if its closed too tightly, pressure in the firebox could go positve. Then you have CO leaking into your house. It most Definitely DOES matter where you take the reading from :o

If you can't get a negative pressure reading at all or its not like it used to be there are many factors. There could be a blockage in the chimney OR the chimney has developed a gaping hole (rotton metal) OR atmospheric conditions outside have changed like wind speed/direction or temperature.

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Muss44
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Post Wed. Sep. 05, 2012 7:40 am

Thank you for the replies. It makes sense why they are put in the sequence that Lee explained. I will have to look at and see what I can do to make it all work. I may just need to put the manometer very close to the stove and use a metal for the first section of the manometer tubing to get it away from the stove and heat. Thanks again for everyones wisdom!

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Lightning
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Post Wed. Sep. 05, 2012 11:47 am

A piece of metal brake line about 12 to 18 inches long works perfect. Just connect it to the tubing for the manometer and make everything air tight :)

Muss44
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Post Thu. Sep. 06, 2012 7:18 am

that is a great idea. I will be putting it in later this week and I will have to post a picture if it turns out well.

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Lightning
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Post Thu. Sep. 06, 2012 5:57 pm

Pardon my dungeon like basement lol. Heres how I did my tubing. I used a piece about 16 inches. The rubber tubing fit tightly over the metal break line. I crimped a little piece of tin on the other end to act as a stop so the rod only sticks a couple inches into the stove pipe.
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