Hitzer 75 Coal Stove.

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EarthWindandFire
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Post by EarthWindandFire » Sun. Aug. 26, 2012 7:17 pm

I picked up my new/old Hitzer coal stove. Turns out that it's a model 75 which pre-dates the model 82. The stove is in mint condition and looks like it was almost never used.

Does anyone know anything about the 75, what makes it different from the 82 and what's the maximum amount of BTU's it can put out?

The model # is 3566 and the fire box is 9" inches deep x 14" x 24".

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Last edited by EarthWindandFire on Mon. Aug. 27, 2012 5:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.


 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Aug. 26, 2012 8:14 pm

My 82 had cast iron doors, but otherwise this 75 model looks identical.

 
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Post by samhill » Sun. Aug. 26, 2012 8:22 pm

I have a 75 in the garage without the HW pipes, only difference I can find is the 82 has another row of firebrick but I don't recall if they are vertical or horizontal. It throws out a good amount of heat, I just burn wood in mine, tried coal once but by the time it was going real good I was done out there so I just burn wood for a faster rather than longer fire.
Mine I guess was for hot air only, it has a top duct & a hot air fan system that sits behind & blows air between the double walls when it's called for.

 
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Post by EarthWindandFire » Sun. Aug. 26, 2012 8:44 pm

I just realized tonight that it's missing the shaker handle. Where can I get one of those?

 
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Post by freetown fred » Sun. Aug. 26, 2012 9:15 pm

In Freetown, that would be called vice-grips ;) Call Dean at HITZER 260-589-8536

 
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. Aug. 27, 2012 6:15 am

freetown fred wrote:In Freetown, that would be called vice-grips ;) Call Dean at HITZER 260-589-8536
Yes, Hitzer will surely send you what you need.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. Aug. 27, 2012 6:16 am

samhill wrote:I have a 75 in the garage without the HW pipes, only difference I can find is the 82 has another row of firebrick but I don't recall if they are vertical or horizontal. It throws out a good amount of heat, I just burn wood in mine, tried coal once but by the time it was going real good I was done out there so I just burn wood for a faster rather than longer fire.
Mine I guess was for hot air only, it has a top duct & a hot air fan system that sits behind & blows air between the double walls when it's called for.
Sam, the furnace models have an extra row of firebrick compared to the radiant-only stoves. Yours probably holds close to 100 lbs of nut coal.


 
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Post by samhill » Mon. Aug. 27, 2012 11:07 am

Rob, like I said mine has the same double walls but there is a bottom inlet for forced air that then comes out the hole in the top & can be directed by ducts, a radiant (I believe) would not have the double walls.
If there are any Amish stores near you that may be a place to look, one of my local ones has them in two different sizes, replacement grates as well.

 
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Post by EarthWindandFire » Mon. Aug. 27, 2012 12:57 pm

Denny,

From what I've read, this stove likes to be run hard. Sounds like it's a little tempermental and was given better manners when it was redesigned as the Model 82.

This is my first hand-fed stove, the MPD on this stove is a little scary because it closes very tightly, do I really need it and if not, can it be removed?

 
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. Aug. 27, 2012 1:03 pm

Mark, what you are referring to as the "MPD" is not a pipe damper in the traditional sense, it is a "bypass damper" that you use to direct the flue gasses directly out of the stove, or through the side of the firebox. If you look in the stove you should see some slanted firebricks on the right side, when the bypass damper is closed the gasses are pulled through the burning coal, then out & up that chamber below the flue collar.

Also, below the flue collar there is a square piece of tin screwed to the stove...behind that there should be a few holes drilled into the stove body. Make sure those holes are clear, they allow air to mix with the hot flue gasses and help burn them more completely.

Bottom line - Do not alter or remove that rectangular damper, it is very important to make the stove operate as intended.

 
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Post by EarthWindandFire » Mon. Aug. 27, 2012 3:52 pm

Thanks Rob!

I'll light some wood fires in the Hitzer first, maybe in mid-september if it cools down enough at night. That way, my learning curve will be less than it was last year and I can "iron the bugs" out of the stove before it gets too cold.

 
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Post by EarthWindandFire » Mon. Aug. 27, 2012 7:57 pm

Here are some pictures of the hot water "coil" inside the stove. The "coil" is actually 1-1/2" threaded black pipe that enters a steel box that wraps around the back and left side of the stove. This box measures 13" inches tall and 34" inches long in total. It looks and feels much more substantial than a standard stainless steel trombone coil from Hilkoil.

Is this a typical coil factory-installed by Hitzer or something different?

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The coil box measures 13" tall x 12" on back wall x 22" on side wall.

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Last edited by EarthWindandFire on Mon. Aug. 27, 2012 8:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by franco b » Mon. Aug. 27, 2012 8:42 pm

Using black pipe it seems to me the intended purpose was to supply hot water heat rather than domestic hot water.

 
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Post by EarthWindandFire » Mon. Aug. 27, 2012 9:24 pm

It was definitely factory installed. Seems more like a "hybrid" stove than simply radiant. It almost has a water jacket rather than a coil. I will call Dean tomorrow after I email him the pictures.

Maybe I could hook up a cast iron radiator with a small recirculating pump?

 
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Post by Rob R. » Tue. Aug. 28, 2012 7:22 am

I looked in one of my old "Heating with Coal" books and it has the Hitzer 75 listed as 80,000 BTU's per hour, with an optional "water jacket". Provided the jacket/coil holds pressure, I'm sure you could use it to heat some radiation. Of course you would still need to buy a circulator, relay, thermostat, pressure relief valve, dump zone aquastat, and a box of $6 fittings.


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