Coalpail.com Forum

Pierre,

I would say no, that you would not need a MPD. I would certainly try it without one first since it has an internal one. I don't see any reason that the 4" collar would make any differance either. It burned stove coal in the past and honestly flue size isn't related to coal size. It's more like coal load/amount versus flue size I would say. What size pot does it have by the way? It looks to me to be a pretty good sized heater? Oh I see back before you said it was 16" That should put out some heat.

SteveZee wrote:Pierre,

I would say no, that you would not need a MPD. I would certainly try it without one first since it has an internal one. I don't see any reason that the 4" collar would make any differance either. It burned stove coal in the past and honestly flue size isn't related to coal size. It's more like coal load/amount versus flue size I would say. What size pot does it have by the way? It looks to me to be a pretty good sized heater? Oh I see back before you said it was 16" That should put out some heat.

Good to read your ideas Steve.
If the grate works correctly to send the ash down in the ash pan and let the air go up to burn the load, it should be OK, I hope
An other curious thing in that stove is the fire pot, I said 16" in a past post but I measured it and it's a 17" X 13" oval shaped. I don't know if I will be able to make a line for it: 1*= no support for it and 2*= the grate has a rotation movement but is also dumping so the back of the grate lift up when the front in push down, so the liner could limit that action...
The back top of the fire pot is like an extension over the fire pot, maybe for banking the load?

OOPS, I forgot the Golden Bride with her new friend

Nortcan, excellent job your doing IMO. Got one question, is that wicker furniture always that close to the stove?

Pierre,

I see what your saying. The pot is wide but not as deep as would be normal in a "stand-up" stove of that size. As regards to the grates, I don't think your mods will be any problem because you were smart enough to only make a small change and not be too aggressive. The liner is another store? I see what your saying with the problems. I wonder if it wouldn't be best to try a liner using the "plastic" or clay refractive material that I used? It can be modeled just like clay with a mallet and is "sticky" enough to stay were you want it. You could do the parts inbetween the "teeth" and the unsupported top frame. It's strange that they have those holes like that? But maybe because it burns bottom to top?
I still have a half box left from the cookstove box I made for my Glenwood C. But I'll use the rest on the new stove "Cartman" because Kim says the Modern Oak 116 is allot chubbier that the Herald!

I noticed that you got the Sunnyside from Bryant's. I know they have that clay type plastic refractory material. If you want to get some and have a problem finding it, let me know and I can probably get some for you although it might be expensive to ship as it's quite heavy before it drys. Oh, and I think your are right about the back of the pot for banking.

Also I wanted to say that the nickel looks fantastic! The stove is a real "looker" and the pieces you chose to nickel were just right!

samhill wrote:Nortcan, excellent job your doing IMO. Got one question, is that wicker furniture always that close to the stove?

Thanks Samhill, sorry but I don't know the meaning of IMO Always something to learn here
No the furniture is not there on Winter time, having sciatic problems, yes yes really not a joke this time , the faux-foyer is taking so much time to be modified so the dis-assembly of the Sunnyside is done in the small living room but very slowly...

SteveZee wrote:Pierre,

I see what your saying. The pot is wide but not as deep as would be normal in a "stand-up" stove of that size. As regards to the grates, I don't think your mods will be any problem because you were smart enough to only make a small change and not be too aggressive. The liner is another store? I see what your saying with the problems. I wonder if it wouldn't be best to try a liner using the "plastic" or clay refractive material that I used? It can be modeled just like clay with a mallet and is "sticky" enough to stay were you want it. You could do the parts inbetween the "teeth" and the unsupported top frame. It's strange that they have those holes like that? But maybe because it burns bottom to top?
I still have a half box left from the cookstove box I made for my Glenwood C. But I'll use the rest on the new stove "Cartman" because Kim says the Modern Oak 116 is allot chubbier that the Herald!

I noticed that you got the Sunnyside from Bryant's. I know they have that clay type plastic refractory material. If you want to get some and have a problem finding it, let me know and I can probably get some for you although it might be expensive to ship as it's quite heavy before it drys. Oh, and I think your are right about the back of the pot for banking.

Also I wanted to say that the nickel looks fantastic! The stove is a real "looker" and the pieces you chose to nickel were just right!

Hum, I PM you before reading this......

Finally I arrived to the bottom/base of the stove. Now all is apart waiting for the sand-blast job. After I will apply a Rust Buster Primer to stop any rust to come back, must make some testings before. Cause that stove was so deep- rusted..., I think that sand-blast could let some deep rusted points and maybe the rust eliminator could help After, 3 coats of H.T. paint.

The rust convertor might help for hard to reach spots. Thats the stuff that turns black and then you paint over. Why three coats of paint? I know why my porch needs three but the stove? Is it different type coats?

SteveZee wrote:The rust convertor might help for hard to reach spots. Thats the stuff that turns black and then you paint over. Why three coats of paint? I know why my porch needs three but the stove? Is it different type coats?

Steve, 3 coats is what some stove restoration shops are using when restoring an antique stove. So I would like to do it like a pro

Pierre,

Ha,ha,ha.....very good! I must keep that in mind as I do mine. After the sandblasting, I painted all the parts individually. Then as you seal with the furnace cement and put it back together, there is always some scratches or scuffs that happen. So maybe I'll give it another coat assembled. Once I cure the paint after a couple summer months of drying, I'll use the William's Stove polish to keep it looking nice. Waiting for the nickel to come back now and grates cast. I'll keep the originals for the spares.

Steve

I still wonder if I will use stove cement everywhere. I begin to hate stove cement after what happened on the Sunnyside after the ""original"" restoration... Plus, stove cement gets hard so no flexibility like HT silicones. For the not hottest parts, I will use a HT silicone and for the hottest parts.

I don't remember who sent that on the forum, but it really works. It was about the stove he painted and after some days he took a soft wire brush on a drill and rub the stove with it. I was sceptict about that method but...
My Sunnyside's grate was on the workbench, having a flat black paint on the top, so I took a hand wire brush just to make a test and I was shure to scratch the grate with that treatment. The brush is a Lincoln welder one, so not very smooth but a grate is inside the stove so I didn't care... but wow, the look was like a black polish without the black on my hands Not very visible on the photo but it's super nice.
Thanks to that guy for the great

nortcan wrote:I still wonder if I will use stove cement everywhere. I begin to hate stove cement after what happened on the Sunnyside after the ""original"" restoration... Plus, stove cement gets hard so no flexibility like HT silicones. For the not hottest parts, I will use a HT silicone and for the hottest parts.

Yes the stove cement is a messy pain in the rear. What happened to the Sunnyside after the "original" restoration? Not as good as what we would do? That is usually the case.

Steve,
What I like from HT silicone is that it adhere so much to the parts to make a good seal and stay with some flexibility. Easy to realize it when you have to remove an already sealed part with HT silicone. We all know the stress resulting from a heated part and from the cooling of the same part... I just would like to find a HT black silicone having 1200* F rating and affordable
And about the second question, I don't want to start an other 20K plus views thread.