A Sunny Side ?

Greg, I took these photos for you when at Bryant Stove :
The first one would fit perfectly in your small fireplace
Or the second one. I didn't have time to look at this small one but found it so nice
Pierre

Nortcan, you get that thing fired up yet?? I wanna see it go

That tall stove looks to be 7 or 8 feet tall !!
The short insert looks like a wood burner, it is interesting thoughPierre, that stove needs a person standing next to it for size comparrison, it looks to be 7' tall!

I think the other insert is a wood burner. Too bad, it's interesting if not gaudy.

Greg

That's quite a rig Pierre! Lots of levers,slides,valves and dampers. Just how we like them! Really cool.

Lightning wrote:Nortcan, you get that thing fired up yet?? I wanna see it go

Lightning, you'r much more faster than me . But next Fall the Sunnyside will shine

LsFarm wrote:Pierre, that stove needs a person standing next to it for size comparrison, it looks to be 7' tall!

I think the other insert is a wood burner. Too bad, it's interesting if not gaudy.

Greg

I will find how tall it is but you'r certainly near with 7, anyway it's an impressive stove.
Maybe a small wood antique stove could do the job cause that place is just occasionnaly used but I don't know if some antique wood stoves are ""clean"" burners, shurely not as the one you have there now. But for just an occasionnal fire

SteveZee wrote:That's quite a rig Pierre! Lots of levers,slides,valves and dampers. Just how we like them! Really cool.

Steve, you'r a real stove philosopher
Bravo

Some details about the convection devices on the Sunnyside.
Cold air coming from downstairs could be send upstairs. Under the base at the back there is an opening to connect a pipe going downstairs. Cold air goes up across the horseshoe base into a pipe then is heated around the back of the stove's jacket. From there warm air could be send upstairs from the side connector in a pipe or send into the place where the stove is sitting in from some grills . At the same time, the front outside part of the stove heats the room. These stoves had the front part outside of the fireplace and the other one inside of the fireplace.
A sliding damper controls the warm air direction.

Not my Heater but just to give an idea of installations.
Mine will be placed deeper inside of my faux fireplace.

nortcan wrote:Greg, I took these photos for you when at Bryant Stove :
The first one would fit perfectly in your small fireplace
Or the second one. I didn't have time to look at this small one but found it so nice
Pierre

Thw little one is a wood burning parlor stove meant for just one room. This what was called a, "4 oclock heater." These were meant to be used only when the room was being used, say for an evening. The stove would be lighted in the afternoon and would heat up the room until it was no longer necessary to heat the room and the fire would be allowed to go out.
These stoves are very old. This one probably dates from the late 1850's. The style of the stove is Rococco. Very popular just before and during the Civil War.

Another option you have with a Baltomore Heater is they are designed to adjust the depth of the stove in the fireplace. You can have the stove sticking out onto the Hearth as much as you want or you can recess it further in the fireplace if desired.

wsherrick wrote:

nortcan wrote:Greg, I took these photos for you when at Bryant Stove :
The first one would fit perfectly in your small fireplace
Or the second one. I didn't have time to look at this small one but found it so nice
Pierre

Thw little one is a wood burning parlor stove meant for just one room. This what was called a, "4 oclock heater." These were meant to be used only when the room was being used, say for an evening. The stove would be lighted in the afternoon and would heat up the room until it was no longer necessary to heat the room and the fire would be allowed to go out.
These stoves are very old. This one probably dates from the late 1850's. The style of the stove is Rococco. Very popular just before and during the Civil War.

William,
Thanks for the infos. The "carving" work on these antique is a real art (to my personal opinion).

Wlliam or other readers,
My question is to know if the base burner damper should close completly "air tight" or if it's not so important to do so? I send a photo showing the damper on the Sunnyside and it looks to have some gaps. I will take that upper parts and see how it's done, like that or warped?
In the Vigll, the internal damper used for placing the stove in a "down" draft position is not air tight and has many places for air by-pass, not warped and like that when new. Seems made voluntary that way in the VC but is it in the Sunnyside?
Thanks

I don't think it is at all critical and would be hard to measure a difference if it was perfectly airtight.

Glad to see you are back in form and keeping us informed.

franco b wrote:I don't think it is at all critical and would be hard to measure a difference if it was perfectly airtight.

Glad to see you are back in form and keeping us informed.

Thanks Franco, in fact my Antique sickness is cured now with the Sunnyside
To be shure I will remove the top cover, the one at the back part of the stove, not a big job to do and will see. Because the direct and base drafts are only 4", I was wondering about these air gaps, maybe a 16" fire pot needs all the draft available, plus the lower doors (many) don't have locking latches, they are just ""drop"" down and not air tight. All that in relation to the base burning mode damper