Coalpail.com Forum

OMG I feel like such a dummy.. I just cleaned out the furnace and realized that I think my grates are upside down! I noticed that on one side the grate, the openings are bigger than the other side. I noticed it also when I put them in when I replaced a grate, 3 months ago. Thought nothing of it. Then I thought about gravity pulling the ash down thru the holes and if the grates are the wrong way, the ash would bind up as it came down through the hole like trying to force ash thru a funnel. Is this right? Should the side with the bigger openings face down?? The flatter smaller openings facing upward??

Its no freakin wonder I had to shake like my life depended on it and to prod and poke and slice and heave up thru the bottom every time I shook down to keep a good fire going. I'll robably keep doing that anyways but not as aggressively

Some advise on which way the grates should be would be appreciated lol

The taper to the holes if probably a side effect to the grate being cast. They have to be able to get the form back out of the casting sand and not ruin the mold, all cast items are designed like a wedge.

I would put the small side up because it would seem to allow ash to fall through easier.

The grates sit lower in the frame if put with the flat smaller openings upward, because the pivot point isn't in the plane of the grate. It is actually on the top side when I mount them with the smaller openings upward.. Look closer at the pictures and you will see what I mean It makes a difference in how it shakes. It also now will rock and shake!! I'm really thinking now this is how it was intended to be

How many others have made this silly mistake lol???

There are no silly mistakes. If one way works better then the other-----DO IT I keep saying, this ain't rocket science.

freetown fred wrote:There are no silly mistakes. If one way works better then the other-----DO IT I keep saying, this ain't rocket science.

Yeah if it were rocket science, I'da blown'er ta smitherins by now!!!

You & me both my friend.

So now that I got my grates going the right way,
I want some cold weather so I can fire it back up and see how she performs!

Silly & Crazy---OUTSTANDING.

I thought I should post an update since I've had the furnace running for a few days now with the grates right side up. I'm finding I get a lot more ash with less effort shaking. I can swing the handle further in each direction without a piece of coal jamming the grates since they sit lower in the frame now. I used to get coal jams way too easy, now its almost like I can't jam it even if I try

So, those of you that have these similar model furnaces, it does matter which way those grates get put in.
I made the mistake of thinking it didn't matter.. But I'm still new at this and I'll probably be new at it for quite a while

Like the pics, but which way is proper?

Sorry, I did not read all the other posts. Small side up.

Lightning,

Every grate system Ive ever taken apart ,maybe six or so, have had the small side up . Im guessin' your good to go. I see your in Cutco territory , great knives.

Best, Waldo

waldo lemieux wrote:Lightning,

Every grate system Ive ever taken apart ,maybe six or so, have had the small side up . Im guessin' your good to go. I see your in Cutco territory , great knives.

Best, Waldo

Excellent THank you for the reinforcement! Thats good to know!!

Oh yea! looked closely at your statement "pivot point" above or below the "plane" yes, yes, yes.......the grates actually "sit" lower in their frames allowing for greater clearance when shaking.

Well, today I got the new grate at Tractor Supply. Then, dropped off my handle at a fabricator who has 5/8" square stock and will fashion the "Lightning Special" T-handle / horizontal adapter for me.

Ever notice that the square bit end of the grate is not 5/8".....they are actually smaller, adding to the play in the shaking function. Therefore on each circumfrence opposite the four flat (ID) areas of the handle, I had.... drilled and tapped 2 - 1/4" holes about 1" apart. I got 8 -1/4" x 3/4" socket head set screws, 8 - #18 internal star washers, and, 8 - 1/4" hex nuts. When I get my handle back, I will add the hardware, then final adjust for a snug fit between handle and grate.

Will report back. For now still cozy with corwood......what the heck, after all I don't have a coal mine in my backyard.

LOU

LudlowLou wrote:Oh yea! looked closely at your statement "pivot point" above or below the "plane" yes, yes, yes.......the grates actually "sit" lower in their frames allowing for greater clearance when shaking.

Yeah I felt like quite a dummy when that dawned on me

LudlowLou wrote:Well, today I got the new grate at Tractor Supply. Then, dropped off my handle at a fabricator who has 5/8" square stock and will fashion the "Lightning Special" T-handle / horizontal adapter for me.

Member "Short Bus" planted the seed for that idea

LudlowLou wrote:Ever notice that the square bit end of the grate is not 5/8".....they are actually smaller, adding to the play in the shaking function. Therefore on each circumfrence opposite the four flat (ID) areas of the handle, I had.... drilled and tapped 2 - 1/4" holes about 1" apart. I got 8 -1/4" x 3/4" socket head set screws, 8 - #18 internal star washers, and, 8 - 1/4" hex nuts. When I get my handle back, I will add the hardware, then final adjust for a snug fit between handle and grate.

Yeah that sounds good man! While yer drilling and tapping, put some set screws in where the two grates meet in the middle so they will shake the same and won't have that same slop between them that you see with the handle I read where another member did that. I'll see if I can find the thread. I plan to do that too

Heres another thread with lots of good information on our model furnace -
Us Stove Fixes Here