Potbelly Stove

Jtz622 · Post by **Jtz622** » Sun. Dec. 25, 2011 6:51 pm

Hello all,
I have just recently installed a variety no 118 potbelly stove in my house. I burn chestnut sized coal and sometimes the stove gets very hot, to hot for comfort. Even with all the air vents closed it gets super hot. Sometimes it turns rd hot on the outside at the base of the firebox right above the ash compartment. Is this bad? If so should I switch my size of coal? Also does anyone know the value of this stove (I picked it up for $20),and any information on this stove or the manufacturer would be appreciated.
Thanks!

Smokeyja · Post by **Smokeyja** » Sun. Dec. 25, 2011 7:02 pm

Jtz622 wrote:Hello all,
I have just recently installed a variety no 118 potbelly stove in my house. I burn chestnut sized coal and sometimes the stove gets very hot, to hot for comfort. Even with all the air vents closed it gets super hot. Sometimes it turns rd hot on the outside at the base of the firebox right above the ash compartment. Is this bad? If so should I switch my size of coal? Also does anyone know the value of this stove (I picked it up for $20),and any information on this stove or the manufacturer would be appreciated.
Thanks!

Do you have a manual damper in the flue pipe? Also some others on this site have cast refractory cement into the firepot to prolong and protect it. You need to take the stove apart and restore it a long with trying to seal up any air leaks. The problems you are having are caused by a leaky stove and an abundance of draft!
Can you post some photos please? I'm fairly new to the coal burning world but I have restored a "potbelly" aka cannon heater. If that is indeed what you have. There is a lot of knowledgable people on this forum to help you.

Jtz622 · Post by **Jtz622** » Sun. Dec. 25, 2011 7:14 pm

Yeah, I have a manual damper and draft control I did seal up all the seams where the different cast iron pieces meet, it there more I should do?
Ps will post pictures as soon as I can

Smokeyja · Post by **Smokeyja** » Sun. Dec. 25, 2011 7:22 pm

Jtz622 wrote:Yeah, I have a manual damper and draft control I did seal up all the seams where the different cast iron pieces meet, it there more I should do?
Ps will post pictures as soon as I can

Are you burning anthracite coal or bituminous? After we see some pics then we can help you out more. Does it still burn too hot even when you have the manual damper closed? With everything closed take a lit candle and hold it around the bottom and top damper and all the seals. If you see the flame flicker towards the stove, then you have an air leak and the stove is still pulling in enough air to keep it hot.

Jtz622 · Post by **Jtz622** » Sun. Dec. 25, 2011 7:26 pm

these are the pictures

Jtz622 · Post by **Jtz622** » Sun. Dec. 25, 2011 7:27 pm

my average sized fire burning

Smokeyja · Post by **Smokeyja** » Sun. Dec. 25, 2011 7:33 pm

Jtz622 wrote:these are the pictures

It looks like you have the top damper open. You should only be using the bottom if your burning anthracite. that does seem like a hot bed. From what I have gathered is that these stoves were never that air tight in the first place. I have one like yours and I actually used cording in most of the seems and around the door and ashpan cover. Hopefully some real pros will chime in soon for you.

Post by **ONEDOLLAR** » Sun. Dec. 25, 2011 7:55 pm

I think you should seriously consider getting the fire pot lined. I understand this product is very good and very easy to use.

Just my humble 2 cents for what it is worth! Hope you had a MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!

Onedollar

Post by **franco b** » Sun. Dec. 25, 2011 7:57 pm

With the stove cold, cover the ash pan opening with wax paper or clear tape where the door meets the stove surfaces. Lay a thin bead of high temperature silicon on the mating surfaces of the ash pan door. Close the door and wipe off any excess silicon. When cured it will make the door airtight. You will also have to fix any gaps on the air slider. You should then be able to control the stove better.

homecomfort · Post by **homecomfort** » Sun. Dec. 25, 2011 8:07 pm

I have a ?? for franco b, since you use a franco stove, I have been using a fb normandie , very nice stove, luv it. on the shakers, I started pushing and pulling the shaker handles, as well as side to side. I notice much more un burned coal in ash pan, I was wondering if this is a proper method, or just side to side. thanks.

Post by **franco b** » Sun. Dec. 25, 2011 8:26 pm

homecomfort wrote:I have a ?? for franco b, since you use a franco stove, I have been using a fb normandie , very nice stove, luv it. on the shakers, I started pushing and pulling the shaker handles, as well as side to side. I notice much more un burned coal in ash pan, I was wondering if this is a proper method, or just side to side. thanks.

When you push down and pull on the shaker handles it opens a one inch gap in the grates.It is there to dump the fire when cleaning it out.

To shake down start with opening the top door and slice with your poker along the front edge and also a bit in the two front corners. Leave the door ajar to lessen draft through the coal bed and move the two shaker handles to the left to expose the slicing slots. Hopefully you have the poker with the offset end. Use it in the three slots, moving it from side to side as you slide it to the back of the fire box. Finish up with a shake of the handles and move them to the right to close the slots. Close the door you left ajar. If you have the straight poker it is not quite as effective. Sometimes also you have to give the shaker handles a rap with the palm of your hand to close the slots. If you are burning up to about 25 or 30 pound you should be able to go 12 hours before the next shake. Higher burn rate shake every 8 hours. Should not take much over a minute and then top off hopper.

Smokeyja · Post by **Smokeyja** » Sun. Dec. 25, 2011 8:53 pm

ONEDOLLAR wrote:I think you should seriously consider getting the fire pot lined. I understand this product is very good and very easy to use.

Just my humble 2 cents for what it is worth! Hope you had a MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!

Onedollar

Thanks onedollar, I was going to use rutlands castable refractory but this stuff sounds like the bees knees

. I just emailed them.

Jtz622 · Post by **Jtz622** » Sun. Dec. 25, 2011 9:05 pm

Smokeyja wrote:
ONEDOLLAR wrote:I think you should seriously consider getting the fire pot lined. I understand this product http://www.oldtymestoves.com/Refractory%20Page.htm is very good and very easy to use.

Just my humble 2 cents for what it is worth! Hope you had a MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!

Onedollar
Thanks onedollar, I was going to use rutlands castable refractory but this stuff sounds like the bees knees . I just emailed them.

What is that stuff exactly? Is it just chimney cement?

echos67 · Post by **echos67** » Sun. Dec. 25, 2011 9:10 pm

The picture shows blue but it is actually a red glowing firepot, maybe my Droid has a red eye feature or something.

.JPG | 60.9KB | 12-2-11 Glowing Firepot.jpg

This is the stuff used by Emery at the StoveHospital and Steve Zee, you work it like a clay from my understanding and wipe with a wet sponge or rag when finished to get the sides smooth. This is what will be going in my next firepot.

.JPG | 51.3KB | Arrival-Parts Furnace Cement.jpg

I used Rutlands Castable Refractory Cement, started a couple small fires in it, then it sat for a week and it still blistered from the moisture still inside. Whatever you use make sure it is fully cured before burning a hot fire.

.JPG | 31.7KB | Firepot Liner Rutland Leprosy.jpg

Smokeyja · Post by **Smokeyja** » Sun. Dec. 25, 2011 10:28 pm

Check this out regarding your moisture experience.

http://www.budgetcastingsupply.com/literature/100 ... rature.pdf

Potbelly Stove

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