What Kind of Heater Is a Kenmore Model 101 10043?

 
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Freddy
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Post by Freddy » Wed. Oct. 26, 2011 6:25 am

Details, we need details. What kind of animals? The area to be heated..... does it have a concrete floor? A chimney? How much space are you hoping to heat. How much space does the stove have?

You need to keep the stove 36" from any combustible. The chimney heeds to be at least 14-16 feet tall. Cement is best, but metal-bestus would be OK.

I;m the guy that heats sheep and goats. We just keep it above freezing. It's more to keep the water from freezing than it is to keep the animals warm. It's a pain to spend 10 minutes twice a day busting ice from water buckets so we aim to keep it 35 in the barn. It does seem to help the critters if they have babies when it's 20 below zero. One thing though.... if you choose to heat, you MUST heat all year. If you keep it above freezing half the winter, then stop, the animals may not be prepared. With no heat at all they grow more hair, they get acclimated. To suddenly go from 35 to 20 below might not be good.


 
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anthony7812
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Post by anthony7812 » Wed. Oct. 26, 2011 9:17 am

My parents had an Identical if not the same stove in the garage! We always burned wood in it though. Did nice job heating a good 1500sqft uninsulated garage.

 
thepaguy
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Post by thepaguy » Wed. Oct. 26, 2011 2:55 pm

okay I took measurements as seen in the pics. the grates look like there`s a cog on the end of both of them but they aren`t connected to anything, they move easily by hand. the dial on top moves a flap at the base in the back. from off to high. the pipe in the back is a 6 inch but I put an adapter on to go from 6 to 7 inch because of the pipe I already installed for a fireplace insert which I can`t can`t keep fired for more than 4 hours. i`m hoping this will stay lit at least the night. the pen i`m trying to heat is 20x15'. there is/was a front cover in the front for the ashes, I laid it in the driveway to pressure wash it and my wife ran over it going to work this morning.

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thepaguy
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Post by thepaguy » Wed. Oct. 26, 2011 3:16 pm

wow I didn`t know i`d get this many replys, the building is 20'x15' it has a concrete floor. it was an old butcher house back in the day. its insulated and there`s a brick fireplace. I calked all the little cracks with expanding foam. theres 2 drain holes in the floor that run into the stream in front of it. guess they didn`t hear about the epa back then. I left them open and alot of fresh air comes from them. its air conditioned for the summer. I live in a rural area and theres an abandoned farmhouse up the road so everytime someone wants to get rid of a cat it ends up on my property. I have 20 cats now all fixed with all their shots. I am really impressed with how nice everyone is here, thank you for your help.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Wed. Oct. 26, 2011 4:36 pm

paguy, I'm trying to wrap my head around the grate shaking situation--me keeps thinkin there's gotta be some kind of seperate handle that goes on them somewhere, somehow. please, humor me & do another look see. My old warm morning had one that ran from the outside.

 
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Post by thepaguy » Wed. Oct. 26, 2011 5:43 pm

i look again they are not connected to anything. they look like they`d intermesh but they don`t. i`ll get my kid to help me lay it on its back tomorrow. maybe its a lost cause, I was just hoping to put something in that dosen`t have to be tended every few hours.

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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Wed. Oct. 26, 2011 6:33 pm

Damn, that's peculiar.I hate it when it's sooo close yet soooo far. My warm morning used to get a good 12 hr burn at Grandpops just putting along--there's gotta be a way to shake that sucker :clap: toothy Now that's gonna keep me up tonight. :doh: :gee: :help2:


 
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anthony7812
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Post by anthony7812 » Wed. Oct. 26, 2011 6:46 pm

How about taking an auger type hand drill tool and making a small sprocket attachment on the end?

 
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Post by franco b » Wed. Oct. 26, 2011 7:01 pm

First you must figure out how to shake those grates or you are not going to be able to use that stove. Next you have to determine if the ash door is well sealed . Close a dollar bill in the door at several places and see if the door holds it. Just above the fire pot is a row of holes that I believe is to burn off gasses or to burn bituminous coal as well, or would do well with wood. The opening to control that might be the other tear drop shaped opening I see on the side with the air flapper. Add some penetrating oil and tap the side of the flapper in both directions to loosen.

That looks like a good solid building. The chimney, If it is the one I see will have to be extended above the roof line. Is that a tree I see growing there?

I agree with Freddy that you just want to moderate the temperature to take the edge off. Also you must have enough expense already without having to burn a lot of coal if it is not needed.

If the stove does not work out there are a lot if inexpensive stoves available. That's why we need your general location, and also to determine what coal is available.

We are lucky to have people like you that are willing to make up for the irresponsibility of others.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Wed. Oct. 26, 2011 7:44 pm

Just read franco b's post on prior page & he's a real knowledgable guy--NOT a warm morning--OK--Plan B--there's always a plan B----isn't there??? :clap: toothy--- Like said, there's a lot of stoves out there that are real reasonable that should fit the bill if that one doesn't come up to par--that's golf talk I think ;)

 
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Post by thepaguy » Wed. Oct. 26, 2011 9:51 pm

i`m from schuylkill county right outside sch. haven. theres a rust hole on the bottom for the ashes when I get it laid over tomorrow i`ll cut the bottom off and weld a new one on. I have the equipment for that. then just for the sake of argument i`m gonna put some stove pipe on and fire it up outside to see if it actually works. as for the grates I guess I could shake them with welding gloves on at the cogs till I find something better. I don`t know if you know but if you left click on the pics and left click again it`ll zoom the pic then click back to get out. the chimney is high enough, I had to get on a ladder on the roof so I could run the 7" stovepipe. well i`ll let you know what happens after I fire it up.

 
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Post by thepaguy » Wed. Oct. 26, 2011 11:01 pm

What do you have to use to move the grates? is there a place for a tool? I can`t figure out how to use them other than using welding gloves and twisting the gears by hand.

 
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Post by franco b » Wed. Oct. 26, 2011 11:27 pm

The hanger brackets might move enough to get the gears to mesh.

Looking at the other end you can see that the grate end is shaped to take a crank or tool with a hole of that shape. That would require it to be shook from the back of the stove, unless they are back to front and the gears belong in the back.

 
thepaguy
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Post by thepaguy » Wed. Oct. 26, 2011 11:31 pm

i found a site that has the part you need but its pretty expensive. heres the site if you wanna take a look. http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/68/catalogs/Wood ... rence.html like I said its a model 101 100431

 
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SteveZee
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Post by SteveZee » Thu. Oct. 27, 2011 9:05 am

That sure looks like the same grate to me.


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