BTU's OR Sq. Ft Heating ?

Post Reply
 
ftbn
New Member
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu. Oct. 20, 2011 11:20 am

Post by ftbn » Thu. Oct. 20, 2011 7:29 pm

I'm new to this forum TODAY and have another string going.... Hopefully I'm in the guidelines by asking this question in a new topic >>>?

Currently have a Consolidated Dutchwest Wood stove that specs at 50K BTU with a heating "range" of 1400-2400 sq. ft. (No idea of why the curve is so bended)... But I am Totally happy with what it does for my 2000 sq ft Bi-Level

I'm on the search to a coal transition and went coal browsing yesterday. The sales guy stated that I didn't want to go smaller than what I have now.... Harman Mark II VS Mark III. I was told don't get into the BTU numbers game but rather look to the stoves potential in square footage.. The Mark II is 72K BTU and 1900 sq ft....the Mark III is 92K BTU and 2400 sq ft..

Sorry about all the numbers for a Thursday Night, but should I be looking BTU OR sq ft as a determining measurement...? (my MAIN concern is not BLASTING myself with heat in the living quarters of a bi-level)... It happens with the wood, but WITH WOOD, that intense heat only lasts a few hours) ....

Comments are GREATLY appreciated....

 
User avatar
ValterBorges
Member
Posts: 568
Joined: Mon. Sep. 05, 2011 10:12 pm
Location: Berlin, CT

Post by ValterBorges » Thu. Oct. 20, 2011 7:38 pm

The VF3000 boiler claims it can adjust between 5000 to 95000 BTU, It has a 250lb hooper, it has an option to also burn oil.

 
User avatar
Coalfire
Member
Posts: 1029
Joined: Mon. Nov. 23, 2009 8:28 pm
Location: Denver, PA
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 96K btu Circulator
Coal Size/Type: Nut

Post by Coalfire » Thu. Oct. 20, 2011 7:40 pm

Forget about the BTU/SQ ft thing. wood and coal are rated differant, and no one can answer why. Tell us more about your house, size, windows, insulation, where the stove is going.
Most important where your located fill in your avater, general location is fine it helps with climate conditions. Then we can recomend better

Eric

 
ftbn
New Member
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu. Oct. 20, 2011 11:20 am

Post by ftbn » Thu. Oct. 20, 2011 8:03 pm

Thanx Eric:::
Stove will go in the lower level of a bi-level home...
room it wil be installed in is approx. 25 x 35 ..this includes 8ft slider and two opposite windows

Heat willl go up through a stair way 20 feet from the stove and I"ll depend greatly on radiant heat through the floor boards going upstairs...(which I now have with the wood stove withOUT floor vents)

essentially the same numbers upstairs. again with slider and 6 opposite windows....(i have a hallway with bath and 2 Bedrooms that I "usually" don't bother heating...(thank god for college) ;)

So add the numbers and we're looking at 1750 sqft of heating needs..

(2 X 6 construction/ cant remember the factor though)...

Give it your best shot...!

 
ftbn
New Member
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu. Oct. 20, 2011 11:20 am

Post by ftbn » Thu. Oct. 20, 2011 8:07 pm

AND....I'm in the Poconos/ PA


 
User avatar
lsayre
Member
Posts: 21781
Joined: Wed. Nov. 23, 2005 9:17 pm
Location: Ohio
Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75

Post by lsayre » Thu. Oct. 20, 2011 8:10 pm

When I was looking at coal stoves (before I went the boiler route) I was told that a coal stove of close to twice the BTU rating of a wood stove was recommended if transitioning from one medium to the other.

 
franco b
Site Moderator
Posts: 11416
Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
Location: Kent CT
Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

Post by franco b » Thu. Oct. 20, 2011 8:15 pm

I would go with a Hitzer or DS Machine for the extra convenience of a hopper and thermostat. A coal stove can be adjusted over quite a range of heat outputs. The BTU ratings are usually inflated and are not reliable to judge normal operation.

 
User avatar
Coalfire
Member
Posts: 1029
Joined: Mon. Nov. 23, 2009 8:28 pm
Location: Denver, PA
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 96K btu Circulator
Coal Size/Type: Nut

Post by Coalfire » Thu. Oct. 20, 2011 8:18 pm

The mark 2 will probably do it then with no problem, but I personally would go with the mark 3, holds more coal, and if you don't need the btus just keep her dialed back. If your wood stove works now as for heat circulation through the house the coal stove will be no differant.

Hopefully someone that has a mark will chime in.

 
User avatar
Coalfire
Member
Posts: 1029
Joined: Mon. Nov. 23, 2009 8:28 pm
Location: Denver, PA
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 96K btu Circulator
Coal Size/Type: Nut

Post by Coalfire » Thu. Oct. 20, 2011 8:19 pm

franco b wrote:I would go with a Hitzer or DS Machine for the extra convenience of a hopper and thermostat. A coal stove can be adjusted over quite a range of heat outputs. The BTU ratings are usually inflated and are not reliable to judge normal operation.
I will also agree with the hitzer or DS, thought with the question you already decided on a harman.

Eric

 
User avatar
grizzly2
Member
Posts: 844
Joined: Tue. Feb. 12, 2008 7:18 pm
Location: Whippleville, NY
Other Heating: Oil foilfurnace, Jotul#3 woodstove,electric base board.

Post by grizzly2 » Thu. Oct. 20, 2011 8:33 pm

If you lived in central NY state, I would say about 50K BTU max output stove would be about right. The Hitzer 30-95 is an example of a correct size stove. I don't see the harm in going with a little larger stove and running a lower firebox temp though. Hitzer 50-93. Most stove manufacturers appear to carry a stove in the size range ou need.

I heated 1350 sq. ft. of old insulated, but a little drafty, two story house with my 50K output Hitzer and never had to push it above 450* firbox temp. I live in nothrern NY where -20* is expected to happen every year. :jawdrop:


 
User avatar
Richard S.
Mayor
Posts: 15183
Joined: Fri. Oct. 01, 2004 8:35 pm
Location: NEPA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert VA1200
Coal Size/Type: Buckwheat/Anthracite

Post by Richard S. » Fri. Oct. 21, 2011 3:32 am

ftbn wrote: Currently have a Consolidated Dutchwest Wood stove that specs at 50K BTU with a heating "range" of 1400-2400 sq. ft. (No idea of why the curve is so bended)...


Because of different climates/seasons, every house is differnet. 2X6 construction for example could nearly halve you heating needs. ;) The 2400 is a bit of stretch unless it's warmer climate and ideal house.
But I am Totally happy with what it does for my 2000 sq ft Bi-Level
If that is sufficient then that is what I would go with however personally I'd be looking at something at least 70K and ways to move the heat around more.
I was told don't get into the BTU numbers game but rather look to the stoves potential in square footage..
The BTU dictates the potential, he's a salesman and the "potential" is best case scenario. Leisure line makes a 70K unit and to paraphrase Jerry the former owner "this stove cannot be used as your only source of heat" in a 2000 sq. ft. home. He's just being honest, it could meet the needs of most homes most of the time.
(my MAIN concern is not BLASTING myself with heat in the living quarters of a bi-level)... It happens with the wood, but WITH WOOD, that intense heat only lasts a few hours) ....
The amount of heat a coal stove produces is controllable and you can get very steady heat from it over a very wide range, over sizing the stove isn't going to blast you out of the room unless it's ridiculously over sized.

 
User avatar
SteveZee
Member
Posts: 2512
Joined: Wed. May. 11, 2011 10:45 am
Location: Downeast , Maine
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Modern Oak 116 & Glenwood 208 C Range

Post by SteveZee » Fri. Oct. 21, 2011 10:02 am

A Mark II would be fine as well as a MarkIII, but if I were you, I would consider a Hitzer 30 or 50 model or a DS machine circulator. Why? Because they come with hoppers and are like having "the automatic transmission" of coal stoves. Easy to run and maintain for long periods of time.
Of course in my case, I'd be looking for a Glenwood baseheater or baseburner from the turn of the century. But that's just my preference.

PS: Sorry, I didn't see your other post. You state that you already bought a Mark II?

 
User avatar
gizmo
Member
Posts: 98
Joined: Fri. Dec. 25, 2009 9:24 am
Location: Southern Minnesota
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA-130
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Pea
Other Heating: NONE

Post by gizmo » Fri. Oct. 21, 2011 10:22 am

The heating guy that helped me size my system
thinks that units rated in BTU's are normally
installed by people who have done heat loss
calculations and know what they trully need,and
units advertising sq.ft. of heating are normally
for the do it your selfers.

 
Muss44
Member
Posts: 58
Joined: Mon. Feb. 07, 2011 12:20 pm
Location: Narvon, PA

Post by Muss44 » Fri. Oct. 21, 2011 10:56 am

I have a freind who just bought a mark II for his bi-level. His will heat his house farily well even when it gets pretty cold. The only complaint he has is that the firebox is pretty small, which means more work and less burn time. If you are set on Mark II or Mark III and can afford the diffrence in price I would think you would want a mark III to gain a little bigger firebox. I agree with the previous posts about looking at other options. I have a Saey which is very similiar to a Hitzer and my nieghbor has a DS machine. We both have hoppers and love the long burn times.

Post Reply

Return to “Hand Fired Coal Stoves & Furnaces Using Anthracite”