BTU's OR Sq. Ft Heating ?
I'm new to this forum TODAY and have another string going.... Hopefully I'm in the guidelines by asking this question in a new topic >>>?
Currently have a Consolidated Dutchwest Wood stove that specs at 50K BTU with a heating "range" of 1400-2400 sq. ft. (No idea of why the curve is so bended)... But I am Totally happy with what it does for my 2000 sq ft Bi-Level
I'm on the search to a coal transition and went coal browsing yesterday. The sales guy stated that I didn't want to go smaller than what I have now.... Harman Mark II VS Mark III. I was told don't get into the BTU numbers game but rather look to the stoves potential in square footage.. The Mark II is 72K BTU and 1900 sq ft....the Mark III is 92K BTU and 2400 sq ft..
Sorry about all the numbers for a Thursday Night, but should I be looking BTU OR sq ft as a determining measurement...? (my MAIN concern is not BLASTING myself with heat in the living quarters of a bi-level)... It happens with the wood, but WITH WOOD, that intense heat only lasts a few hours) ....
Comments are GREATLY appreciated....
Currently have a Consolidated Dutchwest Wood stove that specs at 50K BTU with a heating "range" of 1400-2400 sq. ft. (No idea of why the curve is so bended)... But I am Totally happy with what it does for my 2000 sq ft Bi-Level
I'm on the search to a coal transition and went coal browsing yesterday. The sales guy stated that I didn't want to go smaller than what I have now.... Harman Mark II VS Mark III. I was told don't get into the BTU numbers game but rather look to the stoves potential in square footage.. The Mark II is 72K BTU and 1900 sq ft....the Mark III is 92K BTU and 2400 sq ft..
Sorry about all the numbers for a Thursday Night, but should I be looking BTU OR sq ft as a determining measurement...? (my MAIN concern is not BLASTING myself with heat in the living quarters of a bi-level)... It happens with the wood, but WITH WOOD, that intense heat only lasts a few hours) ....
Comments are GREATLY appreciated....
- ValterBorges
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The VF3000 boiler claims it can adjust between 5000 to 95000 BTU, It has a 250lb hooper, it has an option to also burn oil.
- Coalfire
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Forget about the BTU/SQ ft thing. wood and coal are rated differant, and no one can answer why. Tell us more about your house, size, windows, insulation, where the stove is going.
Most important where your located fill in your avater, general location is fine it helps with climate conditions. Then we can recomend better
Eric
Most important where your located fill in your avater, general location is fine it helps with climate conditions. Then we can recomend better
Eric
Thanx Eric:::
Stove will go in the lower level of a bi-level home...
room it wil be installed in is approx. 25 x 35 ..this includes 8ft slider and two opposite windows
Heat willl go up through a stair way 20 feet from the stove and I"ll depend greatly on radiant heat through the floor boards going upstairs...(which I now have with the wood stove withOUT floor vents)
essentially the same numbers upstairs. again with slider and 6 opposite windows....(i have a hallway with bath and 2 Bedrooms that I "usually" don't bother heating...(thank god for college)
So add the numbers and we're looking at 1750 sqft of heating needs..
(2 X 6 construction/ cant remember the factor though)...
Give it your best shot...!
Stove will go in the lower level of a bi-level home...
room it wil be installed in is approx. 25 x 35 ..this includes 8ft slider and two opposite windows
Heat willl go up through a stair way 20 feet from the stove and I"ll depend greatly on radiant heat through the floor boards going upstairs...(which I now have with the wood stove withOUT floor vents)
essentially the same numbers upstairs. again with slider and 6 opposite windows....(i have a hallway with bath and 2 Bedrooms that I "usually" don't bother heating...(thank god for college)
So add the numbers and we're looking at 1750 sqft of heating needs..
(2 X 6 construction/ cant remember the factor though)...
Give it your best shot...!
- lsayre
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When I was looking at coal stoves (before I went the boiler route) I was told that a coal stove of close to twice the BTU rating of a wood stove was recommended if transitioning from one medium to the other.
-
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I would go with a Hitzer or DS Machine for the extra convenience of a hopper and thermostat. A coal stove can be adjusted over quite a range of heat outputs. The BTU ratings are usually inflated and are not reliable to judge normal operation.
- Coalfire
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The mark 2 will probably do it then with no problem, but I personally would go with the mark 3, holds more coal, and if you don't need the btus just keep her dialed back. If your wood stove works now as for heat circulation through the house the coal stove will be no differant.
Hopefully someone that has a mark will chime in.
Hopefully someone that has a mark will chime in.
- Coalfire
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 96K btu Circulator
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I will also agree with the hitzer or DS, thought with the question you already decided on a harman.franco b wrote:I would go with a Hitzer or DS Machine for the extra convenience of a hopper and thermostat. A coal stove can be adjusted over quite a range of heat outputs. The BTU ratings are usually inflated and are not reliable to judge normal operation.
Eric
- grizzly2
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If you lived in central NY state, I would say about 50K BTU max output stove would be about right. The Hitzer 30-95 is an example of a correct size stove. I don't see the harm in going with a little larger stove and running a lower firebox temp though. Hitzer 50-93. Most stove manufacturers appear to carry a stove in the size range ou need.
I heated 1350 sq. ft. of old insulated, but a little drafty, two story house with my 50K output Hitzer and never had to push it above 450* firbox temp. I live in nothrern NY where -20* is expected to happen every year.
I heated 1350 sq. ft. of old insulated, but a little drafty, two story house with my 50K output Hitzer and never had to push it above 450* firbox temp. I live in nothrern NY where -20* is expected to happen every year.
- Richard S.
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ftbn wrote: Currently have a Consolidated Dutchwest Wood stove that specs at 50K BTU with a heating "range" of 1400-2400 sq. ft. (No idea of why the curve is so bended)...
Because of different climates/seasons, every house is differnet. 2X6 construction for example could nearly halve you heating needs. The 2400 is a bit of stretch unless it's warmer climate and ideal house.
If that is sufficient then that is what I would go with however personally I'd be looking at something at least 70K and ways to move the heat around more.But I am Totally happy with what it does for my 2000 sq ft Bi-Level
The BTU dictates the potential, he's a salesman and the "potential" is best case scenario. Leisure line makes a 70K unit and to paraphrase Jerry the former owner "this stove cannot be used as your only source of heat" in a 2000 sq. ft. home. He's just being honest, it could meet the needs of most homes most of the time.I was told don't get into the BTU numbers game but rather look to the stoves potential in square footage..
The amount of heat a coal stove produces is controllable and you can get very steady heat from it over a very wide range, over sizing the stove isn't going to blast you out of the room unless it's ridiculously over sized.(my MAIN concern is not BLASTING myself with heat in the living quarters of a bi-level)... It happens with the wood, but WITH WOOD, that intense heat only lasts a few hours) ....
- SteveZee
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A Mark II would be fine as well as a MarkIII, but if I were you, I would consider a Hitzer 30 or 50 model or a DS machine circulator. Why? Because they come with hoppers and are like having "the automatic transmission" of coal stoves. Easy to run and maintain for long periods of time.
Of course in my case, I'd be looking for a Glenwood baseheater or baseburner from the turn of the century. But that's just my preference.
PS: Sorry, I didn't see your other post. You state that you already bought a Mark II?
Of course in my case, I'd be looking for a Glenwood baseheater or baseburner from the turn of the century. But that's just my preference.
PS: Sorry, I didn't see your other post. You state that you already bought a Mark II?
- gizmo
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The heating guy that helped me size my system
thinks that units rated in BTU's are normally
installed by people who have done heat loss
calculations and know what they trully need,and
units advertising sq.ft. of heating are normally
for the do it your selfers.
thinks that units rated in BTU's are normally
installed by people who have done heat loss
calculations and know what they trully need,and
units advertising sq.ft. of heating are normally
for the do it your selfers.
I have a freind who just bought a mark II for his bi-level. His will heat his house farily well even when it gets pretty cold. The only complaint he has is that the firebox is pretty small, which means more work and less burn time. If you are set on Mark II or Mark III and can afford the diffrence in price I would think you would want a mark III to gain a little bigger firebox. I agree with the previous posts about looking at other options. I have a Saey which is very similiar to a Hitzer and my nieghbor has a DS machine. We both have hoppers and love the long burn times.