Raise Mark III?

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dutch
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska Channing III
Location: UPstate NY

Post Wed. Sep. 28, 2011 9:58 am

Hello,
Getting to be that time of year to think about burning again.
Here is my question, I have to have a hip fixed in December. I know last winter
I struggled getting down to clean out the ash pan of the Mark III and even loading
means a lot of bending over.
is it okay to put my stove up on blocks? I was thinking maybe raise it enough to
take out 1 full piece of stovepipe.
that would make servicing the stove a lot easier on me this winter.
IMG_0040a.jpg

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blrman07
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Bucket a Day
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Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Wood in the VC and anything that will fit in the Bucket a Day. It's not fussy.
Location: Girardville Pa.

Post Wed. Sep. 28, 2011 10:15 am

I would think that the stove doesn't care if it's on the floor or on blocks. Ensure that wherever you decide to put it that it is stable and secure

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SteveZee
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Post Wed. Sep. 28, 2011 10:32 am

I agree that as long as it's stable you will be fine raising it 6-10 inches off the floor.

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EarthWindandFire
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Post Wed. Sep. 28, 2011 10:49 am

Making the stove secure and level is the most important thing.

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freetown fred
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Post Wed. Sep. 28, 2011 11:47 am

I'm guessing that a pipe length would be 2 ft.---2'--8"??? whatever. :) That would be fine as long as--stated before--it is solid & secure & level. The coal GODS didn't come into our lives to make us suffer. :clap: toothy

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dutch
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska Channing III
Location: UPstate NY

Post Wed. Sep. 28, 2011 1:26 pm

I have a bunch of cement wall blocks I can use, should I just build it up layer by layer, or
can I stack them at the corners, fill the centers with some concrete mix, and leave a little
room for the stove legs at the top to drop into?
just thinking out loud...
and yea, I was thinking the 24" length of pipe for additional height..

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freetown fred
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Post Wed. Sep. 28, 2011 2:14 pm

I'm taking it this is going to be permanant. Your out loud thinkin sounds good to me but, we all know you'll change your mind at least a dozen times before you get er done. :clap: toothy

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SteveZee
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Post Wed. Sep. 28, 2011 3:09 pm

Well, two feet is pretty high lift. I would use blocks but would not do the concrete. That way it's not permanent. I wonder about the cold air return but I guess it doesn't matter all that much. I've just not seen one that high before. My Herald is on a platform that's a brick on end high so thats about 8".

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dutch
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Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska Channing III
Location: UPstate NY

Post Wed. Sep. 28, 2011 3:45 pm

this stove is in my basement, not our main living area.

would you think a cement block on it's side is strong enough?(at the top course)
or should I use a solid 2" or 4" block ontop of the block first?

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freetown fred
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Post Wed. Sep. 28, 2011 3:53 pm

If you're going to leave spots for the legs to set in, how would you use solid. Ohhhh, now we're not going permanent. Change # 1 :clap: toothy I would use 3 rows of block or make it a solid block platform. A Nam buddy of mine in Vt. has his Hitzer set 2 ft high. He's an amputee & don't bend worth a damn. ;) I don't believe cold air return would be an issue.Stick some bricks in the holes at the top layer. But do it neatly. ;)

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dutch
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Post Wed. Sep. 28, 2011 4:28 pm

a work in progress, so more changes will come i'm sure!

hard part is getting enough help there to hoist it up!

i'll take some measurements and see what's going to be needed.
and, you never know, if it still runs as well I may just leave it
where it ends up, easier all the way around even after I rehab

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Chuck_Steak
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Coal Size/Type: mostly nut, sometimes stove, Santa brand
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Location: New Hampster

Post Wed. Sep. 28, 2011 4:34 pm

If it were me, I'd go two blocks high,
and buy four 4" solids for the top.
Blocks aren't very strong, believe it or not, without
something to spread the load out.
This configuration would hold up a car.

That would make it ~20" higher than on the floor.

Good luck. Dan

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warminmn
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Post Wed. Sep. 28, 2011 4:42 pm

I used channel steel between the blocks and my stove legs to spread out the weight on the blocks.

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oliver power
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Location: Near Dansville, NY

Post Wed. Sep. 28, 2011 8:14 pm

Yes, you can raise your mark-III up. My uncle raised his up. I'm guessing he raised his up about 12 to 16 inches. Made quite a difference. At the same time, I also raised my HITZER 50-93 up. Raiseing the 50-93 up helped with ash pan tending, but had to lift pails higher to fill hopper (top load). We used i-beams, welded together to raise our stoves. Since installing my boiler, my mother has been useing my 50-93. She did not want it raised in the air. So, my raised platform sets in the basement. You're welcome to it. The way it sets, it will raise your stove 9-1/2 inches. You can add to the top, or set it on blocks. Either way, this frame is strong, sturdy, and nice looking. It is exactly what you're looking for. Where about's in up-state NY do you live? I too think raising your stove 24" is too high (Just my opinion). What ever you decide, this frame will work very nicely. It was made to do exactly what you're trying to do. This frame fits the HITZER 50-93. The little squares welded on top of the frame, fit into the square cut-outs at the bottom of the 50-93 legs. If you were to grind them off, a plate of steel, etc. would make a nice flat surface. Oliver
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freetown fred
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Post Wed. Sep. 28, 2011 8:48 pm

Now there's a great deal you won't run into every day. :) Hell OP, now you got me thinkin & we all know that's a scarey concept. Good to hear from you my friend ;)

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