I Thought I Would Share. Hot Blast #153 Restoration

Here's the way the secondary air works.

wsherrick wrote:If that is so then there are two different functions there. If you admit room air then it gets pulled in the bottom so you get heated room air out of the top. That is what is meant by the term, "Double Heater," the stove is both a radiant and convective heater at the same time. Now if there is the ability to admit air into the same tube through the ash pit, then that is for an entirely different purpose. I think it may act as a check damper to short circuit excessive draft through the fire. Or is that how the air gets to the secondary air ring around the top of the fire pot? I'm not 100% sure though until I can see how it actually is put together. I'm extremely curious about it since I have never seen one of these stoves in person.

No, the convective heater riser has no connection to the inside of the stove. It just draws from the bottom back side of the stove.

As for that other hole in the base I think I'm wrong because that double draw makes no sense. Maybe it's there to just let ash fall through? Or it always provides a small amount of air to the top at all times? Hum........

wsherrick wrote:If that is so then there are two different functions there. If you admit room air then it gets pulled in the bottom so you get heated room air out of the top. That is what is meant by the term, "Double Heater," the stove is both a radiant and convective heater at the same time. Now if there is the ability to admit air into the same tube through the ash pit, then that is for an entirely different purpose. I think it may act as a check damper to short circuit excessive draft through the fire. Or is that how the air gets to the secondary air ring around the top of the fire pot? I'm not 100% sure though until I can see how it actually is put together. I'm extremely curious about it since I have never seen one of these stoves in person.

I think it may act as a check damper to short circuit excessive draft through the fire.

You may be on to something there, a built in Baro?

grumpy wrote:

SteveZee wrote:Greg,

By the way, I forgot to ask you if you got all the parts you needed with the stove? Looks like you're all set but thought I'd ask. It's gonna be a beauty when you're done!

No I'm still looking for that piece that hangs on the top loading door, I have a few leads. Also a new grate would be nice.

If its a round drawbar grate (fork and round dump style) try checking woodsmanspartsplus.com They also have several types and sizes of bar grates too. Worse comes to worse you can have your original recast at a foundry like Auburn Stove foundry or Tomahawk foundry.

Also I think William is correct on the ashpit vents. My Herald has those too and all I can see them doing is lessening draw.

I checked out Woodmans, not keen on what they have for my size. Would rather have the OEM grate. I have used Tomahawk and am thinking maybe I can repair this grate with Bondo or something and then have them cast me a new one. I'm open to any ideas on how to repair this grate for a recast if you guys have any.

grumpy wrote:I checked out Woodmans, not keen on what they have for my size. Would rather have the OEM grate. I have used Tomahawk and am thinking maybe I can repair this grate with Bondo or something and then have them cast me a new one. I'm open to any ideas on how to repair this grate for a recast if you guys have any.

Greg,
It's not all that bad looking because the broken bits are in the inside of the round grate and above the fork. That will work for a while. That said, I had a friend who is recasting his for a Herald Oak. It has drawbar type grates like ours but actually has three ball bearings in the casting that the grate runs on. In his case, he had a broken tooth on the outside and this is what he did before sending for recasting

"For my missing grate tooth I drilled two small holes at the base of the "stump". Then took a piece of coat hanger wire and cut & bent it into a narrow "U" shape and with a drop of crazy glue on each end...stuck both ends into the drilled holes and attached a small finger clamp. worked great-supplied the "skeleton" for the tooth. Then, I got some plaster and made a mold of a couple good teeth on the other side. Used this model (shaved to fit) lined with plastic wrap as a mold to paste in the metal plastic (bondo).
It works too good!....the folks casting will not be able to tell it from a real tooth (exact same color) ..I'll have to make it "Fragile-Bondo".

If that's too extreme I'd go ahead and see if you can get the bondo to work. If getting it to stick is a problem you might try some JB Weld and then shape it after it hardens.

Hi Greg, that Muriatic acid is doing the job. Glad you had the 'real' gas mask, much safer that way.

Just a note to anyone wanting to just clean up some nickled pieces or dirty brass or copper.. Lysol Toilet bowl cleaner or 'The Works' is a dilute
mix of Muriatic acid, and some other cleaners.. That's how it removes rust from the toilet bowl.

So just wear rubber gloves, use 0000 steel wool, and 'polish' the plated or brass parts with the 'bowl cleaner' of your choice. The corrosion, tarnish etc will
melt right off. On tougher jobs, you can soak the pieces for a few hours. Then polish with the super-fine steel wool..

Greg, we'll take the pieces to my plater on Friday, and get him started on making the bright-work bright again..

Did you decide on paint vs Stove polish yet ?

I agree abuot the grate, it's not in that bad of condition. it would be nice to recast one and have it available, but the one you have looks perfectly
functional.. With nut coal with a layer of dampening pea coal, it should work great.

See you friday.

Greg L.

Thanks Greg, I would like to add that if you use acid you must wear rubber gloves. I just dipped my fingers in the vat a few minutes ago and they aint feeling so good now..

Also Full face cover is also a must, this gas will get in your eyes. From what I am experiencing so far I would not do this without my real gas mask. Also be sure to have a running garden hose by your work space at all times, if there is a mishap and you need to flush out your eyes, seconds will count !

Now did I use paint or polish? You guys tell me... Hum now that I'm looking at that pix I think I need to revisit that bottom piece.. Edit to ad, that piece is fine, it's a reflection from my Kubota parked close by.

Thanks for the heads up on the "cleaners" Greg L. Good info. I'll give that try on my next project.

As far as the paint versus polish goes I think I would go with Williams polish. As clean as those parts are the polish will really look good. Also paint is temporary on a stove that is going to be in use. Within a year or two it will need paint again and I just think IMHO, polish looks better and has better staying power.

SteveZee wrote:

grumpy wrote:I checked out Woodmans, not keen on what they have for my size. Would rather have the OEM grate. I have used Tomahawk and am thinking maybe I can repair this grate with Bondo or something and then have them cast me a new one. I'm open to any ideas on how to repair this grate for a recast if you guys have any.

Greg,
It's not all that bad looking because the broken bits are in the inside of the round grate and above the fork. That will work for a while. That said, I had a friend who is recasting his for a Herald Oak. It has drawbar type grates like ours but actually has three ball bearings in the casting that the grate runs on. In his case, he had a broken tooth on the outside and this is what he did before sending for recasting

"For my missing grate tooth I drilled two small holes at the base of the "stump". Then took a piece of coat hanger wire and cut & bent it into a narrow "U" shape and with a drop of crazy glue on each end...stuck both ends into the drilled holes and attached a small finger clamp. worked great-supplied the "skeleton" for the tooth. Then, I got some plaster and made a mold of a couple good teeth on the other side. Used this model (shaved to fit) lined with plastic wrap as a mold to paste in the metal plastic (bondo).
It works too good!....the folks casting will not be able to tell it from a real tooth (exact same color) ..I'll have to make it "Fragile-Bondo".

If that's too extreme I'd go ahead and see if you can get the bondo to work. If getting it to stick is a problem you might try some JB Weld and then shape it after it hardens.

Thanks for that Steve, I will try that as I do want a new grate even thou it is useable. No holding back now, I want this stove in tip top shape.

I didn't realize that the pieces were 'done'. I thought that they were fresh from the vat of acid.

I'd 'guess' that that is stove polish.. it doesn't look like a film over the metal, rather it looks like the metal itself.. so my vote is for polish.

I've done a lot of nickle, brass, and rusty steel restoration with the 'Bowl Cleaners'. The concentration of acid is much lower, so that it is safe to use
in a bathroom inside a house/home..

The strong mixture that Grumpy used is much more 'dangerous' to use without proper protection. Outdoors and a fan, running water/hose etc.. all important safety items to put into use. It's a great method, but needs caution when used.. I sure don't want anyone to get acid-burnt or other injuries. So please be carefull..

Greg L

LsFarm wrote:I didn't realize that the pieces were 'done'. I thought that they were fresh from the vat of acid.

I'd 'guess' that that is stove polish.. it doesn't look like a film over the metal, rather it looks like the metal itself.. so my vote is for polish.

I've done a lot of nickle, brass, and rusty steel restoration with the 'Bowl Cleaners'. The concentration of acid is much lower, so that it is safe to use
in a bathroom inside a house/home..

The strong mixture that Grumpy used is much more 'dangerous' to use without proper protection. Outdoors and a fan, running water/hose etc.. all important safety items to put into use. It's a great method, but needs caution when used.. I sure don't want anyone to get acid-burnt or other injuries. So please be carefull..

Greg L

The pieces come out very gray and very dull, and no that is not polish, but it looks like it doesn't it. I prefer polish also but there is a reason I will not use it for this. I have to go get the parts out of the vat. I will post about how I finish the black parts later..

I agree that you should go ahead and get a new grate cast. You can keep the old one for a master if you ever need another one or if someone else comes along and needs one.
I really like the secondary air design on the stove. By the time it gets to the top of the fire pot it should be very hot and really do a good job of burning off volatile gasses. You might even experiment and see if you like burning Bituminous in it. It might be a lot cheaper in your area than Anthracite.
As far as finishing off the black portions of the stove I would use Stove Polish. Paint only peels and fades after a short time as the stove is used.

I have a plan to fix the grate and should send it off to be cast next week. And if I don't find myself at the airport tomorrow I will be bringing in the first batch of parts to be Nickel plated. The legs will need a little extra work..

Really looking good Greg!