I Found My New Stove

I finally decided I am going to be purchasing a new hitzer 50-93. It is the perfect price I was looking for and am going to be working on installing the next couple weeks. I figure I got the money now so I mine as well invest it into saving on fuel costs the next several years. Thanks for all the help on here and I can't tell you how excited I am to get started. Anybody else on here using this stove. I think its a great stove for the price and is exactly what I am looking for. I will keep you guys updated.
Tom

Howudoin2427 You made wise choice by upgrading to a newer stove. The Hitzer 50-93 is a really nice stove. Throws some serious heat and the quality is there. The newer stoves are a lot easier to maintain than the older ones. There are a lot of members on this site who own the Hitzer's and really like them. Keep us posted on your install. Good luck with the new stove.

Outstanding choice--I don't know about that--"the newer stoves are easier to maintain" you'll love the 50-93 welcome to the world of manly men Like buck said, there's a few of us that swear by them--ask away if any questions arise. Later my friend

If you do a quick search on here for hitzer 50-93, you will see a lot of people have that stove... Enjoy.

Howdo,

I have had my Hitzer 3095 for 3 years. I believe from what I have read on this great forum that my stove and yours operate about the same. I hope so because my Hitzer (along with having a good chimney draft) made it easy to learn to burn coal. I find our stoves are about as close to having an automatic heating appliance as you can get without electricity. Having a hopper extends burn times a lot. Having the bimetalic thermostatic draft control means we don't have to fiddle with a manual adjustment very often. Most of the time I can just shake it, fill it and forget it.

The first half year I had mine, I didn't have a damper or manometer and the stove burned just fine. The more knowledgable people here convinced me to add the baro. and manometer. Being able to monitor and adjust draft has made burning coal even more economical.

I never have had to let the fire go out to clean out the grates. They shake down well and seem to grind up just about anything. This stove is relatively simple to learn to operate and advanced enough that I am not looking to upgrade to something else.

I think you will enjoy your new stove very much. Best of luck

Thanks yeah that's what I'm gathering from reading that's why I went with the stove. I'm glad you brought up the barometric damper. That's actually what I have been thinking about whether or not I should put one in or use a manual damper. I'm guessing both is the ideal installation right because if u have the manual damper open too much and there was a change in wind and such the barometric damper would adjust automatically. I've heard both sides of the argument and not sure what I should do the only reason I'm thinking of putting the barometric in is because of the safety issue. if something changes while I'm at work the barometric would be alittle more reliable. Am I correct?

This is my new baby

grizzly2 wrote:Howdo,

I have had my Hitzer 3095 for 3 years. I believe from what I have read on this great forum that my stove and yours operate about the same. I hope so because my Hitzer (along with having a good chimney draft) made it easy to learn to burn coal. I find our stoves are about as close to having an automatic heating appliance as you can get without electricity. Having a hopper extends burn times a lot. Having the bimetalic thermostatic draft control means we don't have to fiddle with a manual adjustment very often. Most of the time I can just shake it, fill it and forget it.

The first half year I had mine, I didn't have a damper or manometer and the stove burned just fine. The more knowledgable people here convinced me to add the baro. and manometer. Being able to monitor and adjust draft has made burning coal even more economical.

I never have had to let the fire go out to clean out the grates. They shake down well and seem to grind up just about anything. This stove is relatively simple to learn to operate and advanced enough that I am not looking to upgrade to something else.

I think you will enjoy your new stove very much. Best of luck

I have to agree Grizz. If it wasn't for wanting hot water heat through out, I wouldn't have been looking for anything to replace the 50-93. GREAT STOVE!

Howudoin2427 wrote:Thanks yeah that's what I'm gathering from reading that's why I went with the stove. I'm glad you brought up the barometric damper. That's actually what I have been thinking about whether or not I should put one in or use a manual damper. I'm guessing both is the ideal installation right because if u have the manual damper open too much and there was a change in wind and such the barometric damper would adjust automatically. I've heard both sides of the argument and not sure what I should do the only reason I'm thinking of putting the barometric in is because of the safety issue. if something changes while I'm at work the barometric would be alittle more reliable. Am I correct?

No, you're not correct. Forget the manual damper. As Grizzly 2 said, The HITZER EZ-Flow stoves run just fine without anything in the pipe. The barometric damper won't hurt a thing, and may allow you to tweek the coal burning experience a little. Myself, I had no damper in my pipe. My 50-93 ran like a swiss clock. Like I said, forget the Manual Pipe Damper. The Manual Pipe Damper is for older Non-Air Tight Stoves. Years ago, we always had a Manual Pipe Damper installed. If not, not much heat would radiate off the stove. It would all go up the chimney. Todays stoves are different.

Hate to disagree with you OP,but if I didn't have my MPD-which is all I have in the 50-93, on a day like today, I'd be living in back puff city--remember, I live on the top of a fairly open hill--I think it really depends on the geographic setting

freetown fred wrote:Hate to disagree with you OP,but if I didn't have my MPD-which is all I have in the 50-93, on a day like today, I'd be living in back puff city--remember, I live on the top of a fairly open hill--I think it really depends on the geographic setting

I live up on a windy hill too fred, and never had a puff back through either one of my HITZERs. I do have to agree, geographic settings play a different roll. I can only speak of my own experiences. For conversation sake; your stove should be drawing harder on top of that hill. I still say no manual damper in todays stoves. Todays stove manufacturer's mention NOT to have any restriction in the stove pipes. A manual damper is restriction. Maybe you should install a barometric damper. I do have a barometric damper in the stove pipe of my Kaa-2 boiler. Days like today, it is fully pegged open. Once in a while it will jump around, flap back and fourth, then go back to being pegged open. Guess that could have been a possible puff back situation. Barometric damper handled it just fine. Same chimney the HITZER was on. Like I said; Never a problem with the HITZER. Maybe due to the way I had my drafts set, hats on the chimneys, etc..

Thanks oliver for the clarification. The reason I was thinking going with the manual damper was I called up hitzer to see what there recommendation was and they said they usually reccommend the manual one that way if you don't really need it, your not out alot of money, but what is 100 bux for a barometric damper when you are spending 3000 with stove cost and installation lol. I Think I will put in the barometric and see how it goes. If I have to I could always put in a manual one they are cheap enough, but I don't think I will need it either I don't live ontop of a hill or anything. I do like the baro though because if your not there and have a sudden draft change the baro will regulate it and your stove isnt running wild. Not that it probably would because of the bimetallic thermastat, but if it ever stuck open or something. Can't wait to get up and running.

I live on top of a hill in the open and have both on my 50-93, the baro is capped off and not used due to the fact it sucks like a big vacuum cleaner on days like this and in and hour I can drop the temp in the house 4* by leaving it open. I would need to turn the stove up and burn more coal to keep the temp up in the house if I were to use it.

Yes after much debate I am going to just put in the mpd and go from there im sure that will be good enough

fastcat wrote:I live on top of a hill in the open and have both on my 50-93, the baro is capped off and not used due to the fact it sucks like a big vacuum cleaner on days like this and in and hour I can drop the temp in the house 4* by leaving it open. I would need to turn the stove up and burn more coal to keep the temp up in the house if I were to use it.

Hi Fastcat, I'm not condemming manual pipe dampers. I've used them for years. Problem is; most people don't know how to use them. Let me give you an example: You say your barometric damper is capped off on windy days due to being like a big vaccume cleaner. So you simply cap it off. Now stop and think about this; If you were to install your manual pipe damper ABOVE your barometric damper, you can reduce that big wind vaccume till the barometric damper is floating as in normal weather conditions. That would be how I'd set mine up if I were to have both. Why cap off the barometric damper? Slow down the big draft, and let the barometric damper do it's job. Don't shut the manual damper down too much, or gasses will come out the barometric damper. Cap off the barometric damper, gasses can come out the stove. I don't recommend manual pipe dampers in modern stoves due to the fact most don't know how to use one. Coal gasses are deadly. Most stove companies now-a-days say NOT to restrict the flow in stove pipe. Any manual damper not vertical, is restricting. If you set your drafts on the HITZER EZ-Flow stoves like they were engineered to work with each other, you would need no damper of any kind what so ever. Both my HITZERs run flawless for 11 years so far. No dampers of any kind. They are by far, the best stoves I've heated with, out of , lets say about 20 different stoves. With exception of the vermont castings vigilant, which has it's own internal damper, all the others needed a manual pipe damper. I did install a manual pipe damper in my 50-93 when I first installed it. This was for safty purposes only. After seeing how safe the stove was, I pulled the manual damper out. No need for it.