Need Help With Door Gaskets Harman Mark II

Post Reply
 
Bear038
Member
Posts: 196
Joined: Sun. Nov. 28, 2010 8:03 am
Location: Freeland, MD

Post by Bear038 » Wed. Dec. 29, 2010 12:21 pm

I have a Harman Mark II, and would like to take advantage of the higher temps the next few days to shut the stove down and replace the gaskets in both doors, only I have never done this before.

Two Questions:

First what size gasket roping do I need, and how much, and what cement is best?

Second, basically how do you do this job?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Y'll have tought me so much this year, I am certifiable hooked on using coal, so here I come back to the well for another batch of your collective knowledge and experience.

 
User avatar
lowfog01
Member
Posts: 3889
Joined: Sat. Dec. 20, 2008 8:33 am
Location: Springfield, VA
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Mark II & Mark I
Coal Size/Type: nut/pea

Post by lowfog01 » Wed. Dec. 29, 2010 1:52 pm

I always have a second pair of hands around when I do this. I don't know the size of the gasket because I do mine in the summer and always take the old one with me. Check the owner's manual. I take the door off and lay it on my table. I remove the old gasket and thoroughly clean out the gasket groove. I use acetone to get it really clean. Then I fit the new gasket into the gasket groove and cut it to size. Be careful not to pull it tight and don't stretch it. Once I have it sized, I remove the new gasket and apply an even amount of "Meeco's Red Devil, Gasketing Cement and Stove Sealer in the gasket groove. Be careful because the cement comes out fast, way fast! Once that's done put the new gasket in place. Take the door and with the help of your second pair of hands rehang it. Hang a piece of newspaper over the door and new gasket and shut the door. The newspaper will stop any oozing cement from getting on your stove front. Close the door and wait 2 hours. You are done. Repeat for the ashpan door. It's actually pretty easy. Good luck, Lisa

 
CapeCoaler
Member
Posts: 6515
Joined: Sun. Feb. 10, 2008 3:48 pm
Location: Cape Cod, MA
Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove

Post by CapeCoaler » Wed. Dec. 29, 2010 11:09 pm

I use Rutlands Water Glass...
After a cleaning of the old groove...
Just paint it in...
No oozing...


 
Bear038
Member
Posts: 196
Joined: Sun. Nov. 28, 2010 8:03 am
Location: Freeland, MD

Post by Bear038 » Thu. Dec. 30, 2010 4:18 pm

Got the infor I needed from a Harman dealer today, it takes 1/2' rope gasket, both doors

 
User avatar
RAYJAY
Member
Posts: 433
Joined: Sun. Nov. 09, 2008 7:06 am
Location: UNION DALE PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: VAN WERT - 600 VA HOT WATER
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: HARMAN- MAGUM STOKER
Coal Size/Type: BUCKWHEAT ON BOTH
Other Heating: NG BOILER

Post by RAYJAY » Thu. Dec. 30, 2010 5:17 pm

the last stove I done I used the the rutland 500deg high temp silicone work better than the gasket cement

jeff

 
rberq
Member
Posts: 6446
Joined: Mon. Apr. 16, 2007 9:34 pm
Location: Central Maine
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300 with hopper
Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Anthracite Nut
Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators (fuel oil); propane

Post by rberq » Thu. Dec. 30, 2010 8:21 pm

lowfog01 wrote:Be careful not to pull it tight and don't stretch it.
Ditto that. Also try not to twist it. If you twist or stretch you can easily have spots where the gasket winds up thinner than elsewhere, and might not seal evenly all around the perimeter. I leave the rope a little long and trim the final inch or so after the rest is in place so as not to be tempted to stretch it.

Post Reply

Return to “Hand Fired Coal Stoves & Furnaces Using Anthracite”