Baro and Mamometer Install Help

hello eveyone , great site , ok the question is I bought a new baro and a dwyer 25 meter , it came with no hoses , but it came with all the fitting ect. I need to put a new baro on my stove and this meter , I was wondering if anyone near the lehigh valley would want to help me out , and what they would charge ? im running a Harman mark 2 and I think im losing alot of heat up my chimney , I have a old boro on it but the weight is froze solid with crud, the stove store told me I can pull the old baro out of the " t" and put the rc model right in it , so if any one is willing that would be great, I read all the posts on it dosent seem hard but im no stove expert , the stove is running right now , thanks everyone

Welcome to the site!!!

Chances are the old baro is screwed to the T. Just look around the edge of it and you should be able to find the screws. Take them out then the baro should just pull out of the T.

That is, of course if your baro is actually a separate peice and not a T-Baro. If it is the later then you may need to go to the store by a T without a baro, shut the stove down and replace the T. Pics of your actual setup would help.

As for the manometer. I'm sure you could use a length of rubber hose from the auto parts store. The manometer would get piped after your manual pipe damper (if you have one) and before your baro damper.

Easiest thing to do with that is buy a length of copper tubing or brake line and put that into the pipe on the stove (you will need to drill a small hole to stick the tube into). The rubber hose will melt if you connect it directly to the pipe.

Generally, zero out the manometer before hooking it up to the stove. Then adjust your baro to .04" (refer to your stoves manual for proper draft setting).

Hopefully this helps.

thanks , I think ur right its a field control model 34 I think its a all one piece t slah baro, I just cant move the weight in it, its stuck good , id hate to shut it down , burning so good , but I guess it could be more heat , I guess ill need a new t also , what size hose would I need for the meter? im not shure what a Harman mark 2 should be set at ? I guess I should just order some new parts .

I want to say the hose is 1/4"; bring the manometer with you and try different hose out. You can just use standard vacuum hose from the auto parts store. Also, the hose gets connected to the high side of the manometer. The low side just put a short piece of hose on and leave open to the atmosphere. Oh, and don't go crazy with the red liquid, you only need a little bit.

i have a old boro on it but the weight is froze solid with crud

..try some WD 40 and a pair of pliers first..might save ya from having to shut the stove down..

PB Blaster may work a little better than WD40. In either case, whatever you do BE CAREFUL, both PB Blaster and WD40 are flammable so just remember. You are going to be spraying against a stove/piping that can be over 500*.

question for you guys out there , what is the hottest I could run my mark 2 without over firing it ? and how hot is too hot on the stack pipe?

Not sure about the Mark 2 but I believe on my Chubby 600-650 is about the limit on the body and I'm gonna say 400-500 on the stack would be the limit. So I'd imagine it'd be somewhere around the same for the Mark 2. I may be way off and I'm sure if I'm wrong someone will correct me.

the new rc baro im buying comes with a collar , the question is what do I do with the collar? I see the collar on my old one , do I have to drill the old rivits out of the old and put the new one on some how?

the item im buying is on ebay , the item number is 280600641997 if you would like to see what im talking about

If you can remove your old baro from the T, I looked it up last night and you may be able to just pop the old one out just take the new RC and slide it into the existing T.

You only need the collar if you have a straight section of pipe and are going to add a baro to it. So, if you can add the new baro to the old T I'd just throw the collar out.

ok thank you , I will be doing it hopefully next week sometime

meatball wrote:question for you guys out there , what is the hottest I could run my mark 2 without over firing it ? and how hot is too hot on the stack pipe?

I wouldn't worry at all about running the stove at 600*.
While I've seen mine higher, it never had to be that way for heating purposes,
it got that hot from either getting the wood fire too hot, which is real easy,
or leaving the intake vent opened too long... both my mistakes. I've seen it 750.
Stove pipe, you'll really see that get dull red hot from wood, not so much coal.
Mostly because with the wood fire, flames are actually in intimate contact
with your stove pipe at times... that doesn't happen with coal.
If when burning coal, your stove temp is in the 500* range,
and your pipe is above 250, if you do not have a baro, you may benefit from using one.
But that's just my opinion.

At the begining of the season, we got rid of a 25 year old Mark that had seen
plenty of warm suppers... It went from a house to a garage/shop, where it ran
at 600 most of the time... All we did was weld a little bracket in the back to
hold the firebrick, scuffed it, bombed it with stove black... still going strong..
The buyers love it.

Dan

meatball wrote: im running a Harman mark 2 and I think im losing alot of heat up my chimney , I have a old boro on it but the weight is froze solid with crud, the stove store told me I can pull the old baro out of the " t" and put the rc model right in it , so if any one is willing that would be great, I read all the posts on it dosent seem hard but im no stove expert , the stove is running right now , thanks everyone

Hi Meatball,

Here's a thought, does the baro you currently have on the stove work? By that I mean since the stove is "running right now" is the baro opening and closing at where the weight is set? Can you read it? If so why not wait to do anything until your get the manometer set up and find out what your draft is. It could be that the manometer will show that the baro is good to go as is. I know that's way out there but even a blind squirrel finds a nut every now and then. If it was your lucky day, you could wait to put the new baro on until you got a break in the weather and didn't really need so much heat. Just a thought, I know I'd hate to have to shut my stove down.

When you do put the new baro in I'd say go with a T joint installation. I don't know but I'd think it's easier to find the level line using the T. For sure, using the T will provide you a simple way to clean the flyash out of your black pipes during the season without shutting down the stove. I just snake the hose of my shop vac through the Baro and down the black pipe; fast and easy. Also it's easy to pull the baro if you needed to for cleaning or whatever, just unscrew the 3 screws holding it in place and it will slide right out. Since the screw holes line up at level a it's quick to reinstall or stick a pipe end cap on the T and you don't have to shut the stove down. I know having the baro in a T junction has made my life easier.

I forgot to say that you can set your manometer up so that it's not a permanent fixture. I have mine hanging out of sight just outside of the distance to combustible range. When I need to take a reading, I do so through an enlarged screw hole on my black pipe. The brake line fits perfectly and I can tuck the tubing away so it's out of sight and mind when not in use. When not in use I close that screw hole with a larger screw.

Continued success with your coal burning, Lisa