Fields RC Baro Damper...Why Did It...?

So, I noticed when I installed my baro the weight when I switched it from the right side to the left it was "tight" when I screwed it on. I thought nothing of it. Well, now, I can't take the weight off or adjust it. In fact, I think my baro is shot, and its only 3 months old. Good thing these things are cheap. Either that or I buy a new bolt and try to fix it?

Has anyone else run into this before?

Why do you think the baro is shot? I have had the weight get loose before, but nothing that would make me think the baro was shot.

Sounds like maybe you got something cross threaded there. Easy fix, just replace it. Hand snug is all that is needed.

Sounds like you cross threaded the screw. You may be able to save the weight, run a tap thru it and get a new screw. Sounds like a lot of trouble to save $25 but it can be done.

I didn't mean the baro was shot. It was just what I wrote. Sometimes, my fingers move too fast.

That's what I was thinking of doing was just get a new nut and such.

That's a 10-24 x 5/8" carriage bolt. You might have cranked it down too tight and stripped the threads. Also, there's a recess in the threaded weight to give clearance to the carriage bolt shoulder. That side should face the bolt. I adjust my baro constantly. I put a little Never-Seize on the threads and handle it gingerly. You could get a small pair of vise grips on the bolt head and unscrew the weight with channel locks, possibly chase the threads in the weight with a tap and get a new bolt and be back in business.

Dann, it would seem I had the weight on backwards to boot. I'm gonna pick up a new bolt tomorrow and try to get the weight off. I tried tonight but couldn't get it off.

I never even noticed that the weight could be out on backwards.

I didn't know what the recess was for and I put it facing out. I probably tightened it too much to get it to seat originally and cross threaded it.

Fixed my baro! Just thought I'd post an update. Guess this thread can be closed.

Glad you got it fixed. Once you get it adjusted there is no need to keep moving the weight around.

Yeah, I was originally trying to knock it back to .04" from .06" and I messed it up.

Ok, I'm still having problems with the baro.

When I had it set for .05" WC I was losing too much heat up the chimney. But when I set it for .04" WC it will actually read .03". If I move it to the right a little it will read .05" WC. I can't seem to get it to see .04" WC.

Before it is asked. Yes, the manometer drops to .0" WC when I disconnect the hose. I also reset it with a piping hot fire 600*.

Is something wrong? I did clean the back of the baro a few days ago and yesterday when I pulled the whole flapper off to fix the bolt on the weight. Could there be too much fly ash in the horizontal run before it goes through the thimble into the chimney? Too much fly ash in the clean-out?

If there is a buildup of fly ash what is the easiest way to clean it without shutting the stove down? Can I just stick the hose from my shop vac through the baro and clean it?

IOF,

How do you know that to much heat goes up the chimney at .05???? What is the spec for the stove??? you will cost more money making adjustments to your baro all the time and wearing it out than you will save in coal . Do like that oven on tv "set it and forget it". seriously though set the baro and don't touch it rest of the season if you are cold turn the stove up. you need a certian amount of draft to pull through the coals. You go too low on you baro, and you might affect the heat output of your stove(not sure but I wonder). If you want it lower what is wrong with .03, you still have draft so it should be sufficient. Don't take what I am saying as harsh be no means, just set it and be done with it.

Have a great day, Eric

Due to all the variables in my particular situation, I adjust my baro frequently. This helps in keeping a desired draft as indicated by my manometer.