Does Anybody Know How to Break Murphy's Law?
- caesar10211
- Member
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 30, 2009 6:33 am
- Location: New Hampshire
OK! I need help on a couple of issues. First off, I'm burning a Russo 2CW. The fan just !@#$%%##@ the bed on me. Started to sound a little squerilly and then nothing. It has been unplugged and a box fan has been placed behind the stove to help with the air. This is just a temp fix for the night. Ok, here goes the diarrhea of the brain?
1. Does anybody know the max operating temp of the 2CW? (Sidenote: I just purchased a second temp gauge. This one for the stove. At the time the bomb dropped, the stove was 600*, and the stack was 200* I have a magic heat on the pipe, and it was running fine.... so I thought.... I'll get to that in a minute.)
2. Where can I find a replacement fan? Does Grainger sell a replacement model? Is there anything special about the fan on there, meaning is it specially designed to take high heat, or can I replace it with a similar fan?
3. The magic heat I told you about...... thought it was running fine, but don't know now? (With a 200* above the magic heat) when I set the fan to manual and keep it on all the time, it works fine. However, when I set the switch to auto, the fan shuts off. Remember, the auto is set to start at 140* . Another curious event is that the bottom of the magic heat is producing some heat, but the top tubes are blowing cool air. Is it possible that I'm just extracting that much heat from the pipe? I would like to think so, but I need to ask now.
For the record.
Baro: in proper draft area .04-.06
Stove: 600*
Stack:200*
air intake: 1/2 (not even a 1)on a 0-4 scale
Any help is greatly appreciated. Did I screw the pooch, or is this just Murphy $#@%$ing with me agian? I'll be in the bar while I wait for responses. Thanks guys I know you can help.
1. Does anybody know the max operating temp of the 2CW? (Sidenote: I just purchased a second temp gauge. This one for the stove. At the time the bomb dropped, the stove was 600*, and the stack was 200* I have a magic heat on the pipe, and it was running fine.... so I thought.... I'll get to that in a minute.)
2. Where can I find a replacement fan? Does Grainger sell a replacement model? Is there anything special about the fan on there, meaning is it specially designed to take high heat, or can I replace it with a similar fan?
3. The magic heat I told you about...... thought it was running fine, but don't know now? (With a 200* above the magic heat) when I set the fan to manual and keep it on all the time, it works fine. However, when I set the switch to auto, the fan shuts off. Remember, the auto is set to start at 140* . Another curious event is that the bottom of the magic heat is producing some heat, but the top tubes are blowing cool air. Is it possible that I'm just extracting that much heat from the pipe? I would like to think so, but I need to ask now.
For the record.
Baro: in proper draft area .04-.06
Stove: 600*
Stack:200*
air intake: 1/2 (not even a 1)on a 0-4 scale
Any help is greatly appreciated. Did I screw the pooch, or is this just Murphy $#@%$ing with me agian? I'll be in the bar while I wait for responses. Thanks guys I know you can help.
be carefull when you go to the b'room it might fall off
- WNY
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- Joined: Mon. Nov. 14, 2005 8:40 am
- Location: Cuba, NY
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
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A lot of the blowers usually require some type of oil for the bearing. they have small holes or tubes for oil
You can get the blowers online, just grab the make and model and do a search. Usually a Fasco or Dayton blower, Grainger, ElectricMotorWarehouse, etc
As for the Heat reclaimer, you said it, you might be extracting a lot of heat or don't have enough going up to kick it on, OR your temp. switch is bad or out of calibration.
You can get the blowers online, just grab the make and model and do a search. Usually a Fasco or Dayton blower, Grainger, ElectricMotorWarehouse, etc
As for the Heat reclaimer, you said it, you might be extracting a lot of heat or don't have enough going up to kick it on, OR your temp. switch is bad or out of calibration.
- caesar10211
- Member
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 30, 2009 6:33 am
- Location: New Hampshire
[quote="WNY"]A lot of the blowers usually require some type of oil for the bearing. they have small holes or tubes for oil
I have looked that whole motor over, up and down. (Actually ripped apart a bad one from another stove I had), the manual says it, but there are no oil points on that thing. If they were there, it would be filled with the proper lube right now.
I have looked that whole motor over, up and down. (Actually ripped apart a bad one from another stove I had), the manual says it, but there are no oil points on that thing. If they were there, it would be filled with the proper lube right now.
- caesar10211
- Member
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 30, 2009 6:33 am
- Location: New Hampshire
Thanks for the link WNY, I'll check it out.
Here is the Dayton blower I got for my 2CW
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml ... sst=subset
Seems to work perfect.
Chris
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml ... sst=subset
Seems to work perfect.
Chris
- caesar10211
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- Posts: 22
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 30, 2009 6:33 am
- Location: New Hampshire
Thanks inline and Freddy for the info and confirmation on how well the fan works. I'm going to order one today.
- New Hope Engineer
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- Joined: Thu. Aug. 21, 2008 8:12 am
- Location: Lower Saucon PA
- Coal Size/Type: Nut pea
i found a website that carries the exact replacement blower,cant remember right off hand but my stove has a fasco blower and it does have an oil hole right at the end of the motor.i will post a link when I can find the site.
- New Hope Engineer
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- Posts: 429
- Joined: Thu. Aug. 21, 2008 8:12 am
- Location: Lower Saucon PA
- Coal Size/Type: Nut pea
here ya go, sorry I had to log on to my other puter to pull it up on my favorites.
http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/fasco/fasco_blower.htm
mark
http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/fasco/fasco_blower.htm
mark
- caesar10211
- Member
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 30, 2009 6:33 am
- Location: New Hampshire
Thanks guys for the recommendations. I got the Dayton, and we're up and running again. It was a perfect match. Easiest replacement I've done in a long time. Next rounds on me!
- New Hope Engineer
- Member
- Posts: 429
- Joined: Thu. Aug. 21, 2008 8:12 am
- Location: Lower Saucon PA
- Coal Size/Type: Nut pea
what was the part # and who was the supplier? just in case I need one.caesar10211 wrote:Thanks guys for the recommendations. I got the Dayton, and we're up and running again. It was a perfect match. Easiest replacement I've done in a long time. Next rounds on me!
thanx,
mark
- caesar10211
- Member
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 30, 2009 6:33 am
- Location: New Hampshire
[quote="inline"]Here is the Dayton blower I got for my 2CW
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml ... sst=subset
I used this link from inline. All I had to do was wire it up. (No cord attached.) It was perfect. unscrew the old one, and the dayton was an exact fit. I got it from Grainger, and when I called, it was in stock and ready for pick up. Simple as 1,2,3.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml ... sst=subset
I used this link from inline. All I had to do was wire it up. (No cord attached.) It was perfect. unscrew the old one, and the dayton was an exact fit. I got it from Grainger, and when I called, it was in stock and ready for pick up. Simple as 1,2,3.