It might have a clear coat of something on the brass that has discolored. Your metal polish should have done something otherwise.Bigbird48 wrote:Also I'm having trouble getting the Brass to clean up, I used a good metal polish but it seemed like it didn't do anything at all, will anything clean it up or is it stained for good now
Another Stove: Harman Mark III
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- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
- Chuck_Steak
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It does.franco b wrote: It might have a clear coat of something on the brass that has discolored. Your metal polish should have done something otherwise.
- Townsend
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- Coal Size/Type: Pea / Nut
Trade me for my Mark I.Skinsfan wrote:I have a Mark III myself. Last year was my first year burning coal and I had trouble keeping the upstairs BELOW 78 degrees. It was a little too hot for me. I burned nut coal all season and I was considering giving pea a try this winter. Any suggestions?
- CoalHeat
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- Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
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- Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
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The Mark III is bigger: http://www.harmanstoves.com/products/products.asp ... oal-stovesWell I've moved and I found a great deal on a Mark ll ($350) and it looks exactly that blue Marklll , I'm not sure what the difference is between the too.
Install a manometer on the smoke pipe and check the draft with a full vigorous coal fire burning. If your draft reading is over about -.07" WC you need a barometric damper. Harman recommends -.06" to -.10" in the manual for my stove, but I find mine runs well at -.04" to -.06" WC. Don't forget the colder it gets outside the more the chimney will draft, if your readings are OK now they may be too high when it's 20 degrees out.I don't have a MPD or baro on it as yet maybe I should try that and see what happens.
No MPD on this stove, no need for one if you have a baro damper installed.
- david78
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- Location: Durbin WV
- Baseburners & Antiques: Fuller & Warren Splendid Oak 27
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Well, here's the Harman with a fresh coat of paint in its new habitat in the basement of the addition. This is the only thing finished in the basement The plan was to get the stove hooked up so I'd have heat to work on finishing the inside upstairs; drywall, flooring, etc. Pouring the basement floor will probably have to wait til spring now.
- wsherrick
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A very nice job. I need to do the same thing, but; I either have to pay somebody to do tile or I have to start learning how to do it.
- RAYJAY
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GO TO STOVE COAL ........Skinsfan wrote:I have a Mark III myself. Last year was my first year burning coal and I had trouble keeping the upstairs BELOW 78 degrees. It was a little too hot for me. I burned nut coal all season and I was considering giving pea a try this winter. Any suggestions?
- david78
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- Coal Size/Type: Nut
It's really not that difficult; I'm sure you could do it.wsherrick wrote:A very nice job. I need to do the same thing, but; I either have to pay somebody to do tile or I have to start learning how to do it.
- freetown fred
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Great find--she looks outstanding
Beautiful looking tile job, the stove looks great sitting there!david78 wrote:Well, here's the Harman with a fresh coat of paint in its new habitat in the basement of the addition. This is the only thing finished in the basement The plan was to get the stove hooked up so I'd have heat to work on finishing the inside upstairs; drywall, flooring, etc. Pouring the basement floor will probably have to wait til spring now.
If you fire that baby up and get it crankin' heat, you won't have to wait until Spring to pour the floor!!! They won't even need the antifreeze additive in the mix!
Make sure you block off that area with a tarp or something when they pour there is a lot of splash that happens that you won't want the splatter on your stove or tile work.