Stove Pipe Rerun

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sharkman8810
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Post by sharkman8810 » Sat. Sep. 11, 2010 7:49 pm

I had to replace the stove pipe after the 2nd year. I decided to rotate the stove pipe 90 degrees to get a bit more workbench space, and improve the gravity flow if the heat, by shortening the run of the 8" duct by a few feet and steepening the angle. My only concern is that I had to use 3 90* elbows. I haven't put the baro in yet. I may run it straight pipe first and make sure it drafts fine before cutting a pipe up for the baro. If I don't have draft I will have to do go back to the original setup and rerun the pipe, and then I can reuse my stovepipe. My chimney is 30' high that is masonry in pretty good shape. With the picture the top of the 8" round pipe off of the sheet metal cabinet goes to the left and up to a vent. The cabinet is going to get some work next.
stove pipe rerun.jpg
.JPG | 88.3KB | stove pipe rerun.jpg
. Total run is probably about 6' of pipe.

 
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DOUG
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Post by DOUG » Sat. Sep. 11, 2010 8:40 pm

You'll probably be alright with draft from a thirty foot chimney. The only thing that I would have done differently, other than using stainless steel pipe, is I would have used Tees instead of 90's. Tees would make it easier for inspection and clean out. Just a thought, because that is what I found to work great. :idea:

 
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coal berner
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Post by coal berner » Sun. Sep. 12, 2010 1:26 pm

sharkman8810 wrote:I had to replace the stove pipe after the 2nd year. I decided to rotate the stove pipe 90 degrees to get a bit more workbench space, and improve the gravity flow if the heat, by shortening the run of the 8" duct by a few feet and steepening the angle. My only concern is that I had to use 3 90* elbows. I haven't put the baro in yet. I may run it straight pipe first and make sure it drafts fine before cutting a pipe up for the baro. If I don't have draft I will have to do go back to the original setup and rerun the pipe, and then I can reuse my stovepipe. My chimney is 30' high that is masonry in pretty good shape. With the picture the top of the 8" round pipe off of the sheet metal cabinet goes to the left and up to a vent. The cabinet is going to get some work next.
stove pipe rerun.jpg
. Total run is probably about 6' of pipe.
Take two of the 90 off and put tees in use a cap on the longest Horizontal run and put a baro in the other tee to control your draft and save on coal keeping the heat in the unit and the house instead of up the chimney


 
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Chuck_Steak
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Post by Chuck_Steak » Mon. Sep. 13, 2010 7:10 pm

Any real reason why you can't turn your stove counterclockwise 90 degrees,
and just use two 45's instead of three 90's?

Then you would have aprx. 90 degrees of bends, rather than 270...
a much better arrangement, if not impossible.

My stove is in the basement as well, and looks aren't really important.
So while it may not sit proper, relative to what would be normal in a living space,
it works out better installation wise..

Of course your situation may prevent that change...

 
sharkman8810
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Location: south central pa
Hand Fed Coal Stove: hitzer 82 ul
Coal Size/Type: nut

Post by sharkman8810 » Mon. Sep. 13, 2010 8:15 pm

I did have it turned 90 and used two elbows, but it was up against the block wall and to the right. I decided to try this way for a few reasons, it gives me back alot of workbench area in my limited space shop, it shortens the run of duct I use to send the hot air to the kitchen , it steepens the duct work and improves the gravity flow of the heat from the stove. I figure if it doesn't work, I can turn it back. I do think it would be smart on my part to get a manometer, either borrow or buy, to check/monitor the draft. However, just rotating in place is a possible idea(which I didnt think of), but wouldn't be as optimum as the current setup for my main goal of trying to improve the gravity flow.

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