New Hitzer 82F Help

Hi,

I've been reading this forum for the past few weeks. I'd appreciate any advice.
I just bought my first ever stove, of any kind (besides kitchen ranges...). We bought our house this spring, an REO wreck, and I've fixed it up, minus a central heating system. I am going to try to heat my house with a coal/wood stove.

Starting from scratch, I've had some difficulty deciding what the best system/purchase is. I've ended up going where the (apparent) deal is. An ad went up on Craigslist yesterday, and I bought today, a Hitzer 82F furnace.

The gentleman had never used the stove. It sat in his basement for years. He had bought is from someone years ago who, likewise, never used it. The stove shows no sign of having been used. There are, however, some missing pieces. Due to this fact, I paid $100.00 for the unit, which, I hope, will not cost much more to make operational.

As a novice, I'm unsure of what exactly is missing. The Hitzer website has no diagram or pictures to help. I've tried to attach several pictures. Can anyone see anything noteworthy?
To the right of the fuel door is a handle that controls a damper above the firebox. It seems to only have open/closed settings. How is this used? There is a UL stamp from WH co. on back stating valid thru 10/1983. So I presume the stove is that vinage. It appears to me that the grates fit into his holder/frame. So I'm missing two grates. There also are no firebricks. Are there clips to hold the bricks? There is also no ashpan, or shaker mechanism/handle.
Is one supposed to leave the blower housing cover in place during operation? Does enough air move with the cover on? Would you add a filter? The Dayton blower is sized properly, and appears original. It has a pigtail coming off (BX) with a hot and a neutral. This appears to get wired, within a provided junction box, to a feed (110v plug into outlet) and a Dayton control, mounted on the back of the furnace body. There is one ground wire with a terminal end that I presume gets screwed to the furnace body/self-grounded.This control has two settings: manual and auto. How is auto controlled? This main air supply flap has a beaded chain which once connected to the "Dial a Heat" regulator above it on the back of the furnace. This chain is broken. I presume the chain simply broke, and if I reconneect it I'll be fine. But if a few beads are missing then I will not have a factory setting on the air control. Would I know this becouse the flap would no longer close fully (the chain being shorter)? Will the stove run way too hot?
Why are there acces panels on the sides at ground level?
Thanks.
Pete

Welcome to the forum. I'll leave it to those who are familiar with Hitzer products to help you out.
$100 for an essentially brand new unit? That's a steal, even with some parts missing.
There is an installation manual on the website that might help.

http://www.hitzer.com/products/stove/Model-82-Furnace/

I recently removed the grates, ash pan and shaker handle from a old Riteway stove from the 70's.

Conversion of a Riteway #37 Into a Stoker Furnace

I will not need them as I'm doing a conversion to a Stoker Furnace.

I could measure things up if you're interested?

Thanks Guys. Yes, McGiever...that would be wonderful. I looked at your project, that's impressive. Will you have it ready for this season?

I measured those components:
Ash drawer area: 12" wide X 3.75" high X 27" deep max. (probably a 24" or so deep pan if I had to guesstimate).
Grates: I don't know what exactly these look like, so I'm guessing a bit. I'm imagining there must be two, if you look at my pictures you'll see the grate holder. They should be rectangular, about 5.5" X 22", with some sort of protrusion on the back side to fit into the notches on the holder and some sort of protrusion on the front that comes through the square openings and allows for shaking.

Thanks again,

Pete

It looks like your Hitzer is missing the grates, cast iron air inlets, firebrick, and firebrick mounting brackets. It would be worth the time to call Hitzer and ask if the same parts from a modern 82FA furnance would bolt right in.

The handle next to the loading door controls the "direct damper", or "bypass damper" depending on what you want to call it. When this damper is open, the smoke can directly exit the stove through the opening at the top...when the damper is closed, the smoke is pulled through the coal bed and out through the side of the firebox. Here are some pictures of a modern 82FA that should make it easier to see how this works.
As for the dial-heat regulator, set the chain so that when the control is on #1 the inlet flapper is slightly open; adjust as necessary once you have the stove operational.

-Rob

They are very easy to deal with on the phone...
So a call to Hitzer will get you what you need...

Every thing said about Hitzer is true...only the cost is unknown.

Pete,

Great news...my Riteway grates are just that...5.5" X 22.5" and have the protrusions as you describe. The 2 grates are on ~7.25" centers.
The grate assembly as a whole, measures 14" X 24" and just rests in place w/ no fasteners on fixed supports for proper height.
Square drive protrusion for shaking extends into area of ash door for access.

Ash pan is 12.5" X 24" X 3.25"

I also have the brick retainers...2@ 12-7/8", 1@ 23-7/8 and "1@ 24-1/8" w/ slope towards breach.
I also have the 2 steel air inlets that fit in place of 2 separate bricks on opposite narrow ends. (as seen in pictures by Markiii)

Noticed yours has rectangular exhaust channel just like the Riteway.

Not sure you'll get the double brick height as shown by Markiii...but you might?

You could probably have some parts fabricated locally, but the grates and air inlets are unique.

Need pictures?

McGiever

Here is what I have.

Missing in photo...shaker handle. Also have Bi-Metallic damper assembly.

McGiever,

Thanks for the photos. I'll send you a private message.

To you, and anyone else: I called a couple of places today to get coal prices, and since you guys have been so helpful on the stove, I'd like your input. I know that's another forum so I'll post my question there, FYI. Thanks,

Pete

Mviii, thanks so much for the pictures (and info). They really helped me visualize how its supposed to look.

On that manual damper...so I leave it closed during normal operation and open before opening the fuel door? Thanks,

Pete

JD2020,

When you asked, in our PM's conversations, of the purpose of the four holes aligned horizontally...were you referring to the ones as seen in your #3 photo above?

Left side of photo, close together in the flue channel? If so, those are the pre-heated secondary air inlet holes. Nothing would attach there, as they are air inlets.

Ask Markiii how his brick retainers are mounted...from his photos...I'd guess...they're interlocking at the corners, resting on brick tops. They're held "captive" by design.

Thanks McGuiver.

I picked up a water coil today, and the flue, etc., so next week sometime I'll get it all put together. I have an old hot water heater I'll use as the circulation tank. I'll poke around on the boards and see what designs folks have used. I'm sure I'll want your feedback on my plan when I get it figured out. Thanks, have a great weekend. I'll be out bushhogging.

Pete