New Stove Install

Well, the insert is gone. Went down to DS Machine and got a 316SS tee. Brought it home and proceeded to install it. It of course was a bit of a challenge. Had to reach up inside the fireplace to cut off about 10 inches of liner with a hacksaw to get the tee up as high as possible to the lintel. Then fight to get the liner back into the appliance adapter and tighten the hose clamp. I put 5 SS screws in the adapter to tee, and three on the cap on the bottom of the tee, as this will be removed periodically for cleaning.

Now for the first of what will probably be many questions: I am probably going to buy one of the stove boards they sell to sit the stove on. They look to be one inch thick or so. The floor is cement (bi-level 18 X 22 family room lower level) but it would match the brick work better. I was thinking that if these are for protection to combustibles, could I just butt it up against the raised hearth and plop it right down over the carpet? I'm not sure how to go about cutting the carpet out to put it down and then attaching the carpet back to carpet strips that I guess would have to be screwed to the cement floor? I have a sneaking suspicion that just dropping it on the carpet would seem way to easy, and not much in life seems to go that way. Seems like there's got to be a catch. Any comments on how any of you might go about this? No mater what is done, I of course want all proper clearances and then some around the stove.

I think I will just keep adding to this thread until it's done. I'll see if I can figure out how to upload pictures as I go.

Steve

The stove is going on the carpeted area correct...
Not on the existing hearth...
If the pad is rated to go on top of combustibles you could do it and be code...
But I would want it on the concrete...
But since you have a concrete floor you could just lay tile on the floor...
You can screw or nail in carpet tack strips into the concrete...

What about using the same type of rock that is on your hearth now? That way the new surface would be an extension of the old; sort of tying it together. I agree with CapeCoaler, I'd want it on the concrete. The concrete base will take away any and all distance to combustible issues. Lisa

CapeCoaler wrote:The stove is going on the carpeted area correct...
Not on the existing hearth...
If the pad is rated to go on top of combustibles you could do it and be code...
But I would want it on the concrete...
But since you have a concrete floor you could just lay tile on the floor...
You can screw or nail in carpet tack strips into the concrete...

I too would put it down on concrete. They make concrete tackless. Little concrete nails in it. Or do as capecoaler said; put your own in.

Looks like the votes are in. Put it on the concrete. I'll give that a try. I hope I can cut the carpet and tack it down OK. I believe it's flagstone on the front of the hearth.

Steve

You should be able to cut the carpet to size and then cover the edges with piece of 1/4 inch toe board. That would give the project a finished look and control any unraveling the carpet may want to do over time. Just a thought, Lisa

[quote="lowfog01"]You should be able to cut the carpet to size and then cover the edges with piece of 1/4 inch toe board. That would give the project a finished look and control any unraveling the carpet may want to do over time. Just a thought, Lisa[/quote

Ah, that sounds good. What do you attach the toeboard to and/or what with? Thank you for the replies all. I'm no carpenter. I work with ball peen hammers, not claw hammers. If the stove involved electo-mechanical timing, plc's, inverter drives, photo sensors, prox sensors, reed switches, air cylinders with flow controls, tachs, sycro drives, encoders, servo motors, and had an HMI on the front I'd have no trouble. I work in the food industry with high speed packaging machinery. But I have never cut carpet or laid stone down on cement. I hope Mike Holmes doesn't see my work.

Steve

Hi steve,
If your carpet is on concrete there is a chance it is glued down. Find where you are putting down your fireproof pad and cut a small section out of the carpet. You will then be able to tell if it is glued down. If it is perfect, lay your pad down and cut the shape out, you will then have a nice edge and the carpet should stay put with no more work. I think lisa is refering to quarter round. Once your pad is down use the quarter round to trim out the pad. this will cover up the carpet edge. You can probably shoot trim nails in on a 45 right into the pad.
Have a great day, Eric

Do you know anyone you could borrow a miter saw from? Those are the ones that you use to cut angles with. If you can put a 45* angle on each of the boards for the outside corners of the hearth that would be cool; a nice finished edge. It's pretty easy if you have a miter saw. I'm not sure how much they cost. Come to think of it, some Home Depots rent hand tools. Maybe your local one does. Then you use a fine concrete nail and just nail the 1/4 inch toe board and carpet in one swift move. The nail will have to be small around so it doesn't split the toe board but long enough to go through the toe board and bite into the concrete. The toe board will help hold the carpet. My hearth isn't on carpet but that's what I did to hide the plywood base on the hearth I constructed out of brick. It just gives a finished appearance. You wouldn't believe how many mistakes are hidden under various trims and moldings.

I just remembered that our Home Depot will cut your purchase; the first 2 cuts are free and any others are .50. You may want to see if they cut angles. In my book it would be well worth the dollar or two. Check it out. Good luck, Lisa

Hi Coalfire,

You are right. Quarter round is the correct name. I just have always referred to it as toe board - don't know why, just have.

Why don't you just go out and buy some more flagstone tiles and tile the front of the hearth out?

When I put my wood burning stove in my hearth I had to bring it up to code. NFPA says 18" so I went 31". Well over what code said. I needed 2" of concrete or 3/8" of concrete equivalent. Instead of pouring concrete on the wood underlayment I used 1.5" of cement board then thin set then went with ceramic tile. Then to blend the tile back into the carpet I used 3/4" x 2" oak boards around the edges.

I plan on coming another 12" out with the Chubby this fall. So, I'll be pulling some of the oak back up and then using the same ceramic tile to bring it out another 12".

I was thinking of using flagstone. I guess I could buy shim stock to go under the feet to level it if it rocks on the stone.

Steve

I think it'd look a lot better than screwing or nailing one of the heat barrier things to the floor. I was much happier when I just brought the hearth further out and tiled when I put my stove in. And, like I said I plan on bringing it out another 12" further when I put the Chubby in. You'll be much happier too. The heat barrier boards are kind of ugly and only come in one color....black.

I think it would look better too. The stove boards I was looking at come in a variety of patterns, but the real thing would look better.

Steve

Well, we went with a stove board after all. The wife thought it would cost a bunch to have it done, and I just don't know how to do that sort of thing. So we got one that she picked out at DSM. We cut the carpet and laid it in. Cutting the carpet was no fun, but she ended up doing the trimming on the edges, and it came out OK. She will go and get carpet tack strips tomorrow and we will attach them to the cement as they recommend. The ones that were there were nailed into the cement. Are they installed by hammering them into the cement, or some type of gun?

We also picked up the extras for installation. Baro, hand damper, and a couple sections of pipe. I also got two of those fans to sit on either corner in the rear of the stove. The idea is so they will diffuse the air coming out of the tubes. I was concerned of that hot air blasting on the ceiling tile above, and a tile falling off in the middle of the night onto the stove. We also ordered the stove as they are running some off this week. We're getting the brown, an ash pan lid (as Coalfire did), and a shorter hopper lid cover so the fans will not need to be removed to open it and fill the hopper.

Steve

What kind of ceiling tiles do you have...
I would not be concerned about the heat 'blasting' out the tubes...
It just kind of rolls gently off the stove...
What kind of fans...
The magic sterling fans that run off a hot stove....
Are kind of a waste as they do not really move that much air...
Nice conversation piece though...
You can nail the strips with small concrete nails by hand or use a Hilti Gun with the proper load...
Basically a .22 charge with a nail instead of a bullet...
http://www.us.hilti.com/holus/page/module/product ... eId=-61411
Use hearing protection they are loud...
Pad looks good...