New Stove Install

A buddy of mine does flooring and I have on occasion helped him on the job etc!

Older concrete floors tend to be harder and can be fun to nail into but they make strips set up with concrete nails and a few good smacks with a hammer should put them into place! We always had a few extra concrete nails on hand to add one here and there as needed.

Now that I think on it you might want to go with a z bar on the edge of the carpet to finish it off. It will give you a metal edge like you where stepping down to vinyl goods. It might finish off the edge of your project along the board nicely if done carefully. Of course it might not work in your application as it is hard to tell from the pic.

SD

Thanks for the replies. I guess heat "blasting" out of the stove was a poor choice of words. I should have said something along the lines of "concentrated". Yes, the sterling fans. I know they don't move much air. It's just to defuse the heat directly above the stove a little. The z bar sounds like a good idea. I never knew they made a nail you could hammer into concrete.

Steve

This question could go over into the Venting, etc. forum, but I thought I would just ask here as this thread is continuing my stove install. Does anyone see a problem with the stove pipe going male into female away from the stove? I know this is a no no for the wood stoves, but we don't have creosote to deal with. I don't believe I would have any condensation to worry about as all is insulated in the chimney. This is only for the 3ft or so between the stove and the tee. If it's not recommended, no problem. I'll go female to male until the tee. I'll just have to go buy a crimper so I can go back to male to get into the tee. I guess there may be pre-made male to male adapters, but that would be yet another joint. I'm assuming you want to minimize the joints in a flue if possible.

BTW - Picked up the stove Saturday. As all who have a DSM have stated, it's built like a tank!

Steve

A couple pics. The brown goes well with the bricks and there is a hint of brown in the pad also. I got the short lid so I don't have to move the fans to open it. I also got an ash pan lid as Coalfire did.

Steve

It looks great!! So much better than having the millboard down on the carpet. Good job!!!

Nice install, now just sit back and wait for old man winter!!

Rich

Thanks for the kind words folks. Today I plumbed in the hand damper with gauge port after that, then barometric damper. I will leave the last section out until I'm ready to fire. I have the ends capped. Last fall, I burned a couple of fires a weekend apart. I couldn't believe the stink bugs that came down the warm flue and out the wood insert. It was our first year for them here. I heard they got out somewhere around Allentown I believe, and are spreading. Anyway, once the coal is lit, I intend to keep it going, so that should keep them out. Next, mount the Dwyer magnehelic gauge. The scale is 0.00 to 0.25 inches of water. It will be permanent. And run the copper tubing. Just FYI - DSM suggests 0.06 as where they want the draft set.

Steve

Final pics unless I post it burning. When ready I install the last piece of stove pipe and light her off. Well, it's off to the coal bin forum. Build that, fill it, and wait for the cold. Thanks for all the help. This is the place for coal!

Steve

Nice to see you using a Dwyer magnehelic gauge. They are easier to read than a monometer. Make it easy to disconnect the copper tubing connecting to the gauge. Then you can blow air through the copper tubing into the flue pipe. This will clear the ash buildup around the hole where the pipe mounts to the stove pipe. Obviously, never blow into the gauge.

Yep. I like the Magnehelic also. There are a couple aesthetic items yet, but they will be done as I come across the solution that works for me. Still need to finish the carpet cut edge. And we would like to find someone who welds up railing and have them make a decorative cover for the fireplace opening and then paint it to match the stove. It would be inserted and mounted flush with the front of the fireplace, easily removable so I can pull the cap on the tee of the flue for service. But mechanically, she's ready to go!

Steve