Keeping My Stove Going While at Work
- freetown fred
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uffbro--go to Venting,Plumbing,etc. section,maybe you'll find something you can check out--I did!!Rember, common sense goes a long way--hopefully you'll have straightened out this problem by now--perservierance(sp)
Ok..Baro Damper installed and fired up now. The damper stays open just a little bit..not much. He used a manometer. I haven't seen this damper move in 3 hours it has been installed. Is it supposed to move much? Not windy here today. Since my last post I have been getting much better times on my burns. I think I was maybe ok without the damper as I just got 15 hours on a load of coal yesterday before shutting down for the baro install. I make sure the ash pan is all red before I reload..I have found this to be key in keeping a fire while at work. I come home and still unburned coal on top with the blue ladies. I'll see what this does..Guess you have to give it awhile. Should I now need to open the bottom draft more or less since the install? I had it set perfect to 1.25 turn to achieve above mentioned burn times.
- Poconoeagle
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where ever the control was set when he adjusted the baro is where I would leave it... was there no wind during the adjustment?? it will only move when the wind blows or the stack temp changes with the seasons.
patience and observance of conditions and settings , will make it clear what does what
patience and observance of conditions and settings , will make it clear what does what
- Poconoeagle
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well, if it was set with the ash door open......a lot of air was going thru the stove no??
and when you close it and adjust the air control then less air is going thru the stove....
but the baro is set for the "lots" of air......
its often why a permanent installation is best cause you can moniter changes and adjust accordingly.
you should get it burning good and strong and adjusted the way you want,THEN measure and adjust the baro....this way you can be confident of the expected way it will burn under those set adjustments..
and when you close it and adjust the air control then less air is going thru the stove....
but the baro is set for the "lots" of air......
its often why a permanent installation is best cause you can moniter changes and adjust accordingly.
you should get it burning good and strong and adjusted the way you want,THEN measure and adjust the baro....this way you can be confident of the expected way it will burn under those set adjustments..
A co-worker lent me his manometer to adjust the barometric damper. I have a medium sized fire going so I stick the probe in the hole and I get -.04 reading. I then push the damper in and out and there is absolutely no change in the reading still -.04 any way you adjust it. Can this be possible? Side stove temp is 300°. Harman says that the setting should be a min of -.06.
- Poconoeagle
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my first question would be : did you calibrate the manometer to zero?uffbros wrote:A co-worker lent me his manometer to adjust the barometric damper. I have a medium sized fire going so I stick the probe in the hole and I get -.04 reading. I then push the damper in and out and there is absolutely no change in the reading still -.04 any way you adjust it. Can this be possible? Side stove temp is 300°. Harman says that the setting should be a min of -.06.
better yet did you give it the "blow" test"
and.... did it move? is "the hole" on the stove side of the pipe that the baro is in??
check the draft before the baro...
how bout a pic?
-
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- Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators (fuel oil); propane
You had a pro install your baro, and he set it with a manometer, so let's assume for the moment that he knew what he was doing. You also say you are getting good long burns now. So leave it alone for a few days and see how things go.uffbros wrote:A co-worker lent me his manometer to adjust the barometric damper. I have a medium sized fire going so I stick the probe in the hole and I get -.04 reading. I then push the damper in and out and there is absolutely no change in the reading still -.04 any way you adjust it. Can this be possible? Side stove temp is 300°. Harman says that the setting should be a min of -.06.
Harman says you should have a minimum of .06, but many (myself included) run well at less draft. My Harman is presently between .04 and .05 and I am happy with it. To answer your other question, about the baro moving -- if the wind is not gusty, and if your stove is burning steadily, then no, the baro will hardly move at all.
- SMITTY
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Mine runs 24+ hours on one load at .04" - no more than .05".
My long burn times have more to do with coal quality than technique ... with a different brand last year (and 3 prior years) I was never able to achieve more than 14 -15 hours max. doing the same as I do now.
My long burn times have more to do with coal quality than technique ... with a different brand last year (and 3 prior years) I was never able to achieve more than 14 -15 hours max. doing the same as I do now.
- Chuck_Steak
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I'd go one further and say that after you have it going the way you like it WAIT forPoconoeagle wrote: you should get it burning good and strong and adjusted the way you want,THEN measure and adjust the baro....this way you can be confident of the expected way it will burn under those set adjustments..
at least a half hour without touching it. THEN you will know that your adjustments are what
you want..
Remember, coal is slower than I am, when it comes to reaction times.
Small adjustments take quite a while to show their true effect.
I agree with rberg on the 'minimum' draft.
Mine runs nearly all the time between .04-.05.
- Chuck_Steak
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Come... quit being a tease.SMITTY wrote:Mine runs 24+ hours on one load at .04" - no more than .05".
My long burn times have more to do with coal quality than technique ... with a different brand last year (and 3 prior years) I was never able to achieve more than 14 -15 hours max. doing the same as I do now.
What WERE you using, and what ARE you using..
- SMITTY
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WAS using Kimmels bagged nut.
Now using Blashak bagged nut. Swear to God ... it really was that big of a difference!
Now using Blashak bagged nut. Swear to God ... it really was that big of a difference!
- Chuck_Steak
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WOW... that is quite a difference.SMITTY wrote: WAS using Kimmels bagged nut.
Now using Blashak bagged nut. Swear to God ... it really was that big of a difference!
And you are doing everything exactly the same as before?
I'm using Kimmels.... Thought it was decent stuff... consistent sizing, no crap in it,
and what I thought good burns... like you were getting..
- PC 12-47E
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Smitty, last year I went through this Blashak/Kimmel's test with a different results..........SMITTY wrote: WAS using Kimmels bagged nut.
Now using Blashak bagged nut. Swear to God ... it really was that big of a difference!
Now, I will have to do it all over again.
PC 12
Edit: I change the baro setting from -.04 to -.06 from warm temps to cold temps. This makes a big
change in heat !!!!
- SMITTY
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520 Highboy
- Coal Size/Type: Rice / Blaschak anthracite
- Other Heating: Oil fired Burnham boiler
I'm tending to the stove the exact same way I did last year.
PC 12 ... I think this was just a good vein that I just happened to get. I guess I'll know for sure if I get the same results next season ...
PC 12 ... I think this was just a good vein that I just happened to get. I guess I'll know for sure if I get the same results next season ...