Hot Water Coil Build up

kenny007 · Post by **kenny007** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2009 1:33 pm

Hello,
I have a Stratford SC-75 with a hicoil inside of the firebox, I have to clean the sedimate off of the coil about every week, looks like hard ash
I was wondering if anyone else has the same problem, It is hooked up to a 42 gallon indirect fired hot water heater, There are times when the water temp goes down to 75-78 degrees and then the coil sweats inside the firebox, could that be the problem??? How could I keep the water from getting that cold?? Only happens when my little ones are taking a bath... I wish there was a way to cycle the circulator pump??

Ps The coil is on the top of the firebox, Should I move it down closer to the fire???

Thanks Guys
Ken

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2009 1:45 pm

FYI

My HW Coils Are Looking Rough After Summer in Damp Basement

Also, do you have a pump hooked up? If so, run it all the time or get an aquastat on the pipe, so when it gets so hot, it circulates automatically.

Yes, its because the water temp is much lower then the coil temp and it forms condensation.Then the condensation attracts the fly ash and causes corrosion. It may be better to have it closer to the fire, but make sure you have it circulating good.

Thats why with a boiler, you don't want to go below 130 (condensating) temperatures.

kenny007 · Post by **kenny007** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2009 1:58 pm

Hello,
I have a taco circulator pump that circulates the water in the coil all the time, I have to slow it down to make good heat, with valves by the indirect
I was thinking of trying smaller pipe like 1/2 inch insted of 3/4 inch pipe... I think slower flow would increase the heat out of the coil, But the indirect is in the basement- stove is upstairs, any ideas to slow down the flow??? Wouldnt a aquastat shut off the pump at higher temps?? I want the pump to shut off at 120 then turn on when coil reaches 140-150 degrees...

Thanks Ken

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2009 4:26 pm

It depends on the aqua stat function, usually they close on hi temp to turn a pump on like most boilers, then off at a lower temp. also can you close down a valve to slow down the flow?

SMITTY · Post by **SMITTY** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2009 4:45 pm

I'm going to post an update to my Hilkoil issues in a minute ...... but I just wanted to warn you if you clean them in any way, it will void your warranty. At least according to the BS tirade the owner of Hilkoil fed me.

ceccil · Post by **ceccil** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2009 5:13 pm

I'm using a single loop Hilkoil in my stove. I do get some flyash build up on mine also. All I do is hit it with a wire brush every so often. I'm using thermosiphon (no pumps at all), and I have never seen any condensaton on the coil. I guess if your using well water you could get some. If you have the space available, you could try installing an old water tank before your stove with no heat. The water would sit in the tank and gradually warm up. This may be suffuciant to bring the water temp up some and help with the condensation issue. Just something to think about. I know it makes a difference. I have city water and a well. My toilet tank will sweat like crazy in the summer when I run well water through it. If I use the city water there is little to no condensation at all. Big difference in temps. between well and city water.

Jeff

kenny007 · Post by **kenny007** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2009 5:34 pm

Hello,
How often do you have to clean the coil?? I think the build up causes the coil to stay cooler, will not absorbe the heat ---I think my issue has more to due with the water flow thru the coil, I am trying to think of a better way to reduce flow mabe to cycle the pump..... I think the pump might be flowing to much water....????

Going to see what taco has to offer in low flow circulator pumps....

Thanks Ken

SMITTY · Post by **SMITTY** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2009 5:39 pm

I wipe my coil down with a plastic bristle brush used for cleaning boilers. The buildup will definitely reduce the amount of heat transferred -- I tried arguing this point with the owner of Hilkoil ... but he wants none of that!

Would be alot cheaper for you to just restrict the flow with a ball or gate valve.

kenny007 · Post by **kenny007** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2009 7:34 pm

Hello,
Has anyone bent this tubing???? Im thinking of bending tubing down closer to fire box, closer to the flame, I think its to high in the firebox

ceccil · Post by **ceccil** » Sun. Dec. 27, 2009 8:22 pm

Mine is high in the firebox also. If you have a pump running, I would install a ball valve to slow the circulation as Smitty suggested.

Jeff

maurizziot · Post by **maurizziot** » Tue. Mar. 15, 2011 9:52 pm

Slowing the gpm will give more heat but less of it, it's all the same, more gpm through the coil less initial heat but
It's all relative.