Pea Coal Vs. Chestnut Coal Vs. Stove Coal

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ONEDOLLAR
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Post Fri. Jan. 08, 2016 11:47 am

Have you tried Stove size yet? While I can burn nut in my Crawford and she does fine, once loaded with Stove is when she really begins to dance. Everything from a Waltz to the
Macarena.....

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fifthg
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Post Fri. Jan. 08, 2016 11:52 am

In my small hand-fired stove,I get much slower and steadier burn with pea than with nut.When you want quicker heat,go to nut.To slow it down,throw pea over the nut.I prefer to burn pure pea for my set up.

Sunny Boy
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Post Fri. Jan. 08, 2016 12:02 pm

swattley01 wrote:i feel one of my problems with my not being able to re light my old cylinder stove is draft coming up from the ash door, the fire burns very hot and I control this with the MPD & Baro damper but the stove still burns hot with a full load of nut coal. I wonder if this older stove would burn pea coal or a mix and maybe not burn so hot all night giving me a longer burn time? any thoughts from you guys that deal with older style stoves?
Have you checked for air leaks below the level of the grates ? If the ash door s not sealing well, or the firepot isn't sealed to the ash pan area, it will be tough to slow the stove down.

Certainly, you can mix coal sizes to help control burn. There are a number of guys on here who use a mix of nut and stove coal to help dial in how they want their stove to run. Freetown Fred is one I know of.

There are others who use nut mixed with pea to help slow the stove.

I use bulk nut coal, but I vary the sizes by where I dig coal in the bin. As the coal comes down the coal truck shute, the larger pieces tend to roll down the pile and collect near the walls of the bin. The smaller pieces don't roll as easily so they tend to accumulate in the center.

I load mostly larger pieces of nut coal for a hotter fire when we want to cook/bake, or keep it running in warm weather. Then load with mostly smaller pieces at night to extend the burn times and during very cold weather to help tame the stronger draft that cold weather causes.

Paul

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Formulabruce
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Post Fri. Jan. 08, 2016 8:40 pm

I have found mixing in larger "stove" size coal, with the nut, nets a cooler, and longer burn. Note I said mixed. This will close off many small holes that the strong draft can suck through, increasing temp. Many older stoves are not as air tight as they may seem, and high draft will always tell the truth!!

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windyhill4.2
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Post Fri. Jan. 08, 2016 8:48 pm

I know egg size isn't on the list in this thread,i have seen it mentioned in other threads in the past.Just curious if any are using stove/egg mix in the bigger hand feds ?

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Formulabruce
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Post Fri. Jan. 08, 2016 10:29 pm

windyhill4.2 wrote:I know egg size isn't on the list in this thread,i have seen it mentioned in other threads in the past.Just curious if any are using stove/egg mix in the bigger hand feds ?
I have a Chubby and use it, its not too big, but its big on heat!

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swattley01
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Post Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 10:09 am

i will try to get some pea coal and see how that runs. I think this kimmels coal from TS is some of the cause for short burn time too

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Redburn
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Post Mon. Mar. 07, 2016 7:51 pm

Just got a sweat deal on some what I was told was all pea but turned out to be half nut 520lbs for 50$ is a good deal for me. I had some long burns with pea layered with nut and look forward to it again.

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Formulabruce
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Post Mon. Mar. 07, 2016 8:17 pm

I have been getting longer burns this season with a mix of stove and Nut..

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Redburn
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Post Mon. Mar. 07, 2016 8:38 pm

Formulabruce wrote:I have been getting longer burns this season with a mix of stove and Nut..
How much longer are you getting?

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Formulabruce
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Post Mon. Mar. 07, 2016 8:59 pm

Redburn wrote:
Formulabruce wrote:I have been getting longer burns this season with a mix of stove and Nut..
How much longer are you getting?
3-5 hours with around 10% Stove coal mixed in. This allows more air room around the coal, so it doesnt get ash bound in the grate stopping air flow and putting out fire.

RRBoy
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Post Sun. Dec. 18, 2016 10:07 pm

[quote="VigIIPeaBurner"]Keeping it simple, burning Coal @ X BTU/Lb + Air @ X Lbs/Hr = X-BTU/Hr. Not accounting for individual efficiency issues**

I think that's applicable to non-adiabatic combustion only :?

I think I could break that down to a basic oxidation reaction equation :roll: ....C + O2 = CO2 .....+ H2O actually.....few realize that water is a basic by-product of all Oxidation processes, even combustion! :shock:

.....now I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn last night, but I am an internet Know-it-all :lol:

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Lightning
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Post Mon. Dec. 19, 2016 4:17 pm

RRBoy wrote:few realize that water is a basic by-product of all Oxidation processes, even combustion!
Here let me help ya with that. Actually water is not a by product of all oxidation. Water is only a by product of the oxidation of hydrogen. The hydrogen atoms mainly come from hydrocarbon molecules. Hydrocarbon molecules come in a variety of chains. These chains that we are most familiar with are derivatives of crude oil like gasoline, kerosene, home heating oil, diesel fuel and propane. Natural gas is also a hydrocarbon, there are many more, alcohols, vegetable oils, the list goes on.

If you were to oxidize pure carbon you would get CO and/or CO2, no water is formed since there is no hydrogen in pure carbon. Another example of oxidation without the formation of water is the oxidation of iron, which is rust.

Oxidation just means that oxygen is added to form a new compound. :)

Most of the combustion processes that we are familiar with do form water and carbon dioxide.

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windyhill4.2
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Post Mon. Dec. 19, 2016 4:45 pm

WOW>!!!!! Such chemistry info.....
A thread about the different burn characteristics of 3 different sizes of coal

How in the coal size world does that chemistry mumbo-jumbo fit in ?? :notsure: :confused:

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Lightning
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Post Mon. Dec. 19, 2016 7:27 pm

Yeah I know, I get out on a limb sometimes lol. :lol:

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