Specifically how to use manometer? etc. and calibrate it etc.
If anyone has a link to the best baro damper for a Hitzer type stove please post a link so I can order it ASAP.
Otherwise ill do my own research (but Id rather be lazy and just let someone tell me they have already done all the work and found the best one for my stove).
OK-OK Ill Get a Baro! Any Good Tutorials on Setup?
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- SMITTY
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Just do an Ebay search for a Dwyer Model 25 .... these seem to be the best for us coal burners, vs. cost. Calibration is as easy as turning a knob & watching the red liquid. Hooking it up is where your going to find different ways to accomplish the same goal.
Myself, as I always do, I find a cheap way that works ..... looks are secondary ... you know -- chrome don't get ya home ... . I just used automotive vacuum hose, drilled a hole in my connector pipe & threaded the fitting in, with a little Permatex Ultra Copper hi-temp silicone. Not pretty at all ... but it works. A prettier way would be to use some copper tubing, but I'm a cheap bastard!
The baro must be dead-level .... no problem as there's a bubble level built in. When you get the unit, you pour the red oil into the clearly marked fill hole, level it, & tighten your mounting screws. Run the hose to your chimney connector pipe (install before baro), turn the zero knob until the red line is lined up with zero, then hook up your hose. DONE! Very simple .
Myself, as I always do, I find a cheap way that works ..... looks are secondary ... you know -- chrome don't get ya home ... . I just used automotive vacuum hose, drilled a hole in my connector pipe & threaded the fitting in, with a little Permatex Ultra Copper hi-temp silicone. Not pretty at all ... but it works. A prettier way would be to use some copper tubing, but I'm a cheap bastard!
The baro must be dead-level .... no problem as there's a bubble level built in. When you get the unit, you pour the red oil into the clearly marked fill hole, level it, & tighten your mounting screws. Run the hose to your chimney connector pipe (install before baro), turn the zero knob until the red line is lined up with zero, then hook up your hose. DONE! Very simple .
Last edited by SMITTY on Thu. Dec. 03, 2009 8:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- WNY
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READ the thread on "MANOMETER INSTALL", and search on "BARO DAMPER". Do a search on here, been discussed MANY, MANY times.
Field Controls RC type Baro and Dwyer Model 25 manometer. very simple to setup and calibrate.
Look thru this forum and read the threads concerning the topic.
Coal Bins, Chimneys, CO Detectors & Thermostats
Field Controls RC type Baro and Dwyer Model 25 manometer. very simple to setup and calibrate.
Look thru this forum and read the threads concerning the topic.
Coal Bins, Chimneys, CO Detectors & Thermostats
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thanks fellasWNY wrote:READ the thread on "MANOMETER INSTALL", and search on "BARO DAMPER". Do a search on here, been discussed MANY, MANY times.
Field Controls RC type Baro and Dwyer Model 25 manometer. very simple to setup and calibrate.
Look thru this forum and read the threads concerning the topic.
Coal Bins, Chimneys, CO Detectors & Thermostats
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Found the Dwyer: Found the RC: but then I saw this RCBT and I am wondering if what I really want is the RCBT.WNY wrote:Field Controls RC type Baro and Dwyer Model 25 manometer. very simple to setup and calibrate.l
It looks like its the RC unit pre -installed into a black Tee pipe which would be all ready to just insert into my stack segment.
Which do I want ? RC or RCBT ?
- Freddy
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Personally I highly recommend the type "M" baro. It's much more sensitive. Much more. I have the M side by side with the RC. The M is light as a feather dancing in a spring breeze. Compared to it, the RC is a drunken sailor stumbling down a dark alley.
The M is stronger too. It's hinge pin is one solid piece that goes all the way across. The RC's pin is actually two short pins crimped in place.
The M is stronger too. It's hinge pin is one solid piece that goes all the way across. The RC's pin is actually two short pins crimped in place.
- SMITTY
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Those 2 short pins on my oil boilers RC get covered in soot over time, which renders it ........ like a blacked-out sailor unconscious in that same dark alley ..
- WNY
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YOu got it!!.
You should get the Baro with the TEE, easier install but much more expensive.
I think a Black TEE are like $20-30, baro is like $25-$30 with the collar, most will charge you $70-100 for the whole combo unit. Do your shopping.
Try http://www.patriot-supply.com/products/showitem.cfm/1940 for the Baro. This will fit right into the TEE, you won't need the collar part. But if you wanted to cut your own piece of pipe, even cheaper for a straight piece.
You should get the Baro with the TEE, easier install but much more expensive.
I think a Black TEE are like $20-30, baro is like $25-$30 with the collar, most will charge you $70-100 for the whole combo unit. Do your shopping.
Try http://www.patriot-supply.com/products/showitem.cfm/1940 for the Baro. This will fit right into the TEE, you won't need the collar part. But if you wanted to cut your own piece of pipe, even cheaper for a straight piece.
- grizzly2
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- Other Heating: Oil foilfurnace, Jotul#3 woodstove,electric base board.
I would make sure the baro that comes with the T can be removed and put into a new T when the old one rusts out. Looks like I am going to get only two years out of my heavy gauge black connector pipe. Be aware that if you buy the baro separately, you will have to ask for black if you want black. The generally stocked color is grey.