30-95 Has Autodraft Ctrl. Do I Still Need a Baro ?

smokeyCityTeacher · Post by **smokeyCityTeacher** » Wed. Dec. 02, 2009 11:34 pm

Would my Hitzer 30-95's automatic draft control serve the same purpose as the baro ?

I need to understand this so I can quit reading that thread

Thanks -

Freddy · Post by **Freddy** » Thu. Dec. 03, 2009 5:51 am

Keep reading that thread. Yes, you need a barometric damper.

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Thu. Dec. 03, 2009 7:27 am

I believe the Auto draft control runs off HEAT, spring loaded, opens and closes to maintain a certain temp on the stove, etc....

The BARO (Barometric Damper) is for your Actual DRAFT up the chimney, the stoves run much better and more efficient with a BARO installed in your exhaust pipe and set correctly and setup correctly with a draft gauge.

smokeyCityTeacher · Post by **smokeyCityTeacher** » Thu. Dec. 03, 2009 5:49 pm

OK - it makes sense now that I see what the ADC does (and doesn't).

grizzly2 · Post by **grizzly2** » Thu. Dec. 03, 2009 5:50 pm

I thought that the draft control on our 30-95 s would be sufficient too. After all if the draft (intake) is reduced how could more than a desired amount of air be pulled from the firebox? The good folks here convinced me to install a baro. and manometer to limit chimney draft. Low and behold my flue temps dropped by about 25 to 40%. That is heat from the firebox NOT going up the chimney. Spend the aprox. $80.00 on the baro. and manometer. You will eventually pay for them in saved coal. Also lower flue temps are always safer than high temps. I get a LOT of wind. On very windy days the fire used to burn much hotter even though the thermostat will close down some as the stove gets hotter. Now the fire is a lot less affected by wind. The manometer will also show you if your draft is too low to maintain a fire, such as on warm days. There are a few things you can do to raise the draft on warm days , but you need to know when it is time to do these things before the fire dies down to the point of no recovery.

smokeyCityTeacher · Post by **smokeyCityTeacher** » Thu. Dec. 03, 2009 8:06 pm

grizzly2 wrote:I thought that the draft control on our 30-95 s would be sufficient too. After all if the draft (intake) is reduced how could more than a desired amount of air be pulled from the firebox? The good folks here convinced me to install a baro. and manometer to limit chimney draft. Low and behold my flue temps dropped by about 25 to 40%. That is heat from the firebox NOT going up the chimney. Spend the aprox. $80.00 on the baro. and manometer. You will eventually pay for them in saved coal. Also lower flue temps are always safer than high temps. I get a LOT of wind. On very windy days the fire used to burn much hotter even though the thermostat will close down some as the stove gets hotter. Now the fire is a lot less affected by wind. The manometer will also show you if your draft is too low to maintain a fire, such as on warm days. There are a few things you can do to raise the draft on warm days , but you need to know when it is time to do these things before the fire dies down to the point of no recovery.

Since they are not real expensive Ill get one. My chimney is very tall 50' + and it is about between 10 and 12 inches square and pulls a draft so strong it will suck your hand into the cleanout box if you put it over the opening.

Im thinking of running both my stoves into the same flue and saving the trouble of busting out my wall to tap into another flue. With baros on both I don't have to worry about overdrafting and cross drafting.

The chimney has more than double the need draft for any one of the stoves. This is why my wood stove burns full bore even with all stops down and the MPD closed tight.

Maybe a second stove on the same flue will take some of the draft away from the woodstove and it will not burn like a wind tunnel.