I am trying to install a Franco Belge coal stove with 5" pipe through a cast iron damper plate in a fireplace. Does anyone have any ideas for a permanent installation? I was thinking if I could find a 5" cast iron thimble, I could use my spare damper plate, cut out a 5" hole, and mount a thimble in in permanently. That way,I could use the plate with the thimble for the coal stove, and use the other one for the fireplace, if I want to go back to the fireplace...
I can't find a source for a 5" cast iron thimble. Any ideas?
How to Go Through a Fireplace Damper With 5" Stove Pipe
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Ovalize some flex pipe...
Cut some sheet metal for a blocking plate...
Cut some sheet metal for a blocking plate...
- coaledsweat
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You'll need a larger pipe than 5" if you want to oval it as the cross section area is reduced significantly when ovaled. I would guess about 7" would oval to the approximate area of a 5" round. Also the pipe must extend up into the chimney beyond the damper at least 4' or more if possible and the damper needs to be sealed well with some plates, a gasket and cement. The plates can be cut and fitted to the damper and pipe and then secured with a cross strap and single bolt. Use a piece of cardboard to make a template for the plates, a piece of sheet metal will work fine, you don't need boiler plate for this deal.
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- Joined: Sun. Feb. 10, 2008 3:48 pm
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
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You don't loose any actual cross sectional area...
But may loose some effective area...
The squish factor to pass a 5" pipe through the damper area should be minimal though...
It does need to be sealed well at the damper...
Metal plate and the high temp insulation is what comes with the damper blocking kits...
The balance of the fireplace flue may be too large to effect a proper draft...
Hitzer uses a 3x factor as the maximum flue area with their stoves...
Give it a shot...
If the chimney is inside the house structure it should be warm enough to work...
But may loose some effective area...
The squish factor to pass a 5" pipe through the damper area should be minimal though...
It does need to be sealed well at the damper...
Metal plate and the high temp insulation is what comes with the damper blocking kits...
The balance of the fireplace flue may be too large to effect a proper draft...
Hitzer uses a 3x factor as the maximum flue area with their stoves...
Give it a shot...
If the chimney is inside the house structure it should be warm enough to work...
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All good advice. I agree completely. If you would like to try a less permanent installation to see how the stove matches up with the chimney and to determine if the draft is adequate, then you can try this which I have used on two occasions: Using two adjustable 5 inch elbows you can set them at about 45 degrees each to manage going through the damper area, then two lengths of pipe in the chimney. Stuff fiberglass insulation around the pipe to seal off the damper area. If things work well then you can do a better job for next season. I have installed these stoves both with and without a barometric damper and feel they work equally well both ways. The stove is tight enough and the thermostat sensitive enough to maintain a steady output over a wide range of draft conditions. Nicer with though, as it is one more safety feature.CapeCoaler wrote:You don't loose any actual cross sectional area...
But may loose some effective area...
The squish factor to pass a 5" pipe through the damper area should be minimal though...
It does need to be sealed well at the damper...
Metal plate and the high temp insulation is what comes with the damper blocking kits...
The balance of the fireplace flue may be too large to effect a proper draft...
Hitzer uses a 3x factor as the maximum flue area with their stoves...
Give it a shot...
If the chimney is inside the house structure it should be warm enough to work...
Richard
- Madhatter
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Yes but please be sure to remove any paper from fiberglass insulation if there is any on it.
franco b wrote:All good advice. I agree completely. If you would like to try a less permanent installation to see how the stove matches up with the chimney and to determine if the draft is adequate, then you can try this which I have used on two occasions: Using two adjustable 5 inch elbows you can set them at about 45 degrees each to manage going through the damper area, then two lengths of pipe in the chimney. Stuff fiberglass insulation around the pipe to seal off the damper area. If things work well then you can do a better job for next season. I have installed these stoves both with and without a barometric damper and feel they work equally well both ways. The stove is tight enough and the thermostat sensitive enough to maintain a steady output over a wide range of draft conditions. Nicer with though, as it is one more safety feature.CapeCoaler wrote:You don't loose any actual cross sectional area...
But may loose some effective area...
The squish factor to pass a 5" pipe through the damper area should be minimal though...
It does need to be sealed well at the damper...
Metal plate and the high temp insulation is what comes with the damper blocking kits...
The balance of the fireplace flue may be too large to effect a proper draft...
Hitzer uses a 3x factor as the maximum flue area with their stoves...
Give it a shot...
If the chimney is inside the house structure it should be warm enough to work...
Richard
this is how I did it. I took my saw saw and cut the damper out so my 6' flex pipe would go right up thru .. I used about 5 feet of flex pipe. my insert has one hell of of a good draft.. if you don't have a saw rent one.. its a little dirty but man straight up no bending or kinks...