Gasket and Cement Kit From Lowes for the Harman

I bought the 5/8 fiberglass (white) gasket kit and cement from Lowes to try. Very different cement then Rutlands stove gasket cement I've used before. This stuff is clear. Directions say to put it on the stove wait 10 minutes press in gasket. Then put a piece of newspaper inbetween door and stove and shut for 1 hr or 2 hrs. I tried 1/2 in. last time and it didn't shut tight. But I did tend to stretch the gasket which makes it shrink thinking I could do both doors but still I needed 2 kits. So the price was much less as the graphite kit from Rutlands. I did it with the stove still running so the door was warm. Still no problems and it adherered good. Time will tell.

captcaper wrote:I did it with the stove still running ...

That's OK, I like to change the oil and spark plugs while my engine is running, too.

Well I don't want to loose my spot in the 1 match club..
Also I been able to turn down the stove so low with this Pea I'm burning it always feels the stove went out hours ago. Barely warm to the touch. Took advantage of this because Tonight will be back into the 20's so up goes the stove temps

I used that type on a wood stove a couple year ago. This was before I switched over to coal. It seemed to work well. I also installed the gasket with the stove burning. No problems. I like to change the oil and plugs when the engine is warm as well. I even clean my hand fired Jotul's while they are burning at high temp. I just take off the top, use my shop vac with a steel end attached and clean out the entire stove and connector. Start to finish I am done under a minute. Replace the top and I am done. I do this once every two weeks. The Jotul is very sensitive to ash build up in the upper part of the stove. To keep it producing heat efficiently, it needs to be cleaned often.

With the wood stove I found the gasket was very easy to remove in the spring. I did not like that aspect. It did not fall out that winter, however, the other gasket cement seemed to have a stronger bond than the stuff from Lowes. If you find you do not like how it is performing, just buy the more expensive gasket and cement and redo it.

the snowman.

Who is Rutland's?

theo wrote:Who is Rutland's?

It's handy so here's a scan... and at most stove store I frequent.

One of Rutland's products....

the snowman wrote: With the wood stove I found the gasket was very easy to remove in the spring. I did not like that aspect. It did not fall out that winter, however, the other gasket cement seemed to have a stronger bond than the stuff from Lowes. If you find you do not like how it is performing, just buy the more expensive gasket and cement and redo it.

the snowman.

When I removed the Harmon's factory installed gasket there wasn't any residue like Rutlands leaves behind. I hope when I replace this gasket I encounter the same. I'm glad to hear your gasket didn't fall off.

I found the Rutland to be more labor intensive to remove the residue it left behind. Was it worth the piece of mind that the gasket was not going to fall out? Probably. with the stuff from Lowes, I just pulled the gasket out and the cement came out with the gasket leaving no mess behind. It was nice, however, I just thought the bond would have been a little bit stronger. Maybe it was a result from installing the gasket while the stove was hot. A cold surface may allow the cement to form a harder bond to the stove.

the snowman.

As long as the gasket didn't fall out during it's service which you said it didn't right? Next time I'll try rubbing some on the gasket as well before installing..They do say wait 10 min. then install gasket..The gasket will be cold so that should be done first. This should give a better bond.

Bump for update. The gaskets have held fine to the doors. Hopefully I'll get 2 seasons out of the gaskets instead of one season as the orignals gave me. The orignals didn't fall off. It was a case of the doors not shutting snug at all.

I'm adding some more info here for anybody that may be searching someday or a fellow Harman owner keeping up with news about Harman's.
I just noticed the OEM's Gasket kit for the "Chubby Coal Stove" uses the same gasket cement as in the kit from Lowe's I got. Also that the Lowe's kit gave plenty of cement to do the job vs Rutland's. I mean plenty of cement. I had about a 1/3 of a bottle left over after doing both doors and applying it generously. I did use both gaskets from the two kits but only one bottle of cement. So next time I can order just a gasket and do both doors again with the left of full bottle and if needed the 1/3 left over portion.
The gaskets are still holding well since I first started the thread. I haven't done many gaskets in my time. The Chubby I had for 14 yrs. only had one replaced that I can remember. The Harman I own now only lasted one season Do to the way the door closures are designed. The Chubby has a tapered cam catch so as the gasket wears or gets pressed flat the cam allows the handle to engage further to keep it snug of course. The Haman door handles are either locked shut or open so after one season the gasket flattened out and didn't keep a tight seal. This is why I changed the gaskets.

Captcaper,
You only got one year out of your gasket? I'm now on my third season with mine and I'm going through 4-5 ton a season plus about a chord of wood. My gasket did fall out when I opened my door up for the first time this season but I just glued it back in and I still have a real tight seal. Was your original gasket oem?
Tom

Mine fell out too when new. With the Mark I, I never had a problem - it was as if the paint cured & formed a strong bond with the gasket. Not with the III though - it fell out on me a few times during the first couple weeks. I pulled it out & sprayed paint in there .... just stuck the nozzle right in so I didn't have to mask the glass ( stove running too), then jammed the gasket back in & closed the door for the night. It's been fine since.

The door definitely does not close as tightly as the Mark I did ......

rouxzy wrote:Captcaper,
You only got one year out of your gasket? I'm now on my third season with mine and I'm going through 4-5 ton a season plus about a chord of wood. My gasket did fall out when I opened my door up for the first time this season but I just glued it back in and I still have a real tight seal. Was your original gasket oem?
Tom

It didn't fall out although it came out real easy when I replaced it. My problem was it didn't shut as tight as I'd like. If I remember I could see some light coming thru when I looked at it in the dark and the door didn't shut as tight as it did new. My gasket was OEM and only used 1 season.
It does get well below zero her often and reached 30 below at one point so the stove works hard. I did use 5 ton myself.
Check yours in the dark and see if you can see thru the door. I wanted to maintain a very tight seal especially on the air intake door to keep it idled down for warmer weather. I started it Oct. 1st. and has been 27/7 since. I'll run it until April like last year I'm sure. It shuts nice now