Barometric Damper?

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coaledsweat
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Post Mon. Aug. 24, 2009 8:42 am

Not mentioned in their literature is the fact that the Model M has two bleed holes in it's face, FC tech told me that this helps prevent flyash accumulation in the baro's port area.

hyway61
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Post Mon. Aug. 31, 2009 5:42 pm

The baro damper I installed is simply called a JTI 6inch...very inexpensive...about $12 plus the cost of a Tee. There is a weight on the inside about the size of a silver dollar on screw with lock nuts on both sides of the flap. Seems to work. But is it good enough.??? These are commonly seen on oil furnance installations in these parts.

hyway61

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coaledsweat
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Post Mon. Aug. 31, 2009 9:42 pm

hyway61 wrote:But is it good enough.???
It should be as long as it is set properly. Did you use a manometer or draft gauge?

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NosmoKng
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Post Tue. Sep. 01, 2009 8:25 am

I thought about a Type M long and hard. Much more expensive than the RC, seems a little more high tech, but for me the $ won out.

new2coal1957
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Post Sat. Sep. 05, 2009 8:02 am

Can I install a Barometric damper horizontally directly connected to the Harman 2 exit flue ?

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DOUG
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Post Sat. Sep. 05, 2009 8:32 am

Yes you can. Just make sure the flap is positioned the correct way to function properly, just as you would if it was installed in the stovepipe vertically.

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coal berner
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Post Sat. Sep. 05, 2009 1:36 pm

new2coal1957 wrote:Can I install a Barometric damper horizontally directly connected to the Harman 2 exit flue ?
Read the Recommended Location for Field Draft Controls . http://fieldcontrols.com/draftcontrol.php

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lowfog01
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Post Sat. Sep. 05, 2009 2:35 pm

new2coal1957 wrote:Can I install a Barometric damper horizontally directly connected to the Harman 2 exit flue ?
That's were I put mine. I have the minimum clearance possible between my stove and where the chimney connector pipe goes into the wall. That gives me very little room for the barro. I placed the barro in a T joint on the chimney connector pipe as far from the stove as possible - almost but not quite touching my heat shield. The barro works well in that location. The T also provides a clean out for removing the flyash that builds up on the horizontal connector pipe and thimble. After I installed the Barro, I noticed an immediate reduction in the amount of coal burned and an increase in the length of burn times. I am only sorry I waited so long before getting the barro. Lisa

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coal berner
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Post Sat. Sep. 05, 2009 11:29 pm

hyway61 wrote:In heating and plumbing supply they sell a simple baro damper often installed in a tee and found on oil burners. These consist of a round weight on a screw with a locking nut ; and they cost about $10 or $15 plus the tee. Are these OK for airtight coal stove applications..?

hyway61
I think your talking about the B - 34 model field control made them the weight does to slide like the Type RC or the RCBT model the one you have is just a screw that spins in and out to counter balance the flap door.
kinda like a Type M but a cheaper model with a smaller counter weight screw with no holes in the door flap plate and the plate is round not flat on the sides like the M also it is made inside a Tee.
Like the RCBT is but the RCBT has a sliding weight with a scale on it like the Type RC .

Like with any baro you need draft gauge or a manometer to set it up correctly & also needs to be level .
The B -34 are ok but they are not the most arrcurate baro out there .
The Type M Type RC & Type RCBT are better and more arrrcurate.
But having any baro is better then not having any at all .

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