Stove Picked, Now I've Got Set-Up Questions.

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sourbeer
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Posts: 26
Joined: Wed. Mar. 11, 2009 5:40 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Hitzer 50-93

Post Tue. Mar. 17, 2009 5:17 pm

Ok, well I've picked my Hitzer stove (havent' actually purchased yet though), and I'm wondering on how to plumb it up with a baro. I've read on here about the use of these and want to put install one. I like the idea of putting on the 90 degree elbow that leads to my terra cotta pipe in the wall. I'm open for suggestions on the best place to put it, and which model I need to get. I have a 6" pipe going through the wall into my masonry chimney. I'm currently using black carbon steel for my woodstove, should I be getting stainless for the coal stove. So, which field controls baro do I get and where do I put it. I guess I could put it on the vertical run facing the back wall to kinda hide it. your suggestions appreciated.

next round of questions will probably be in regards to coal storage, I've got some ideas on that but will save it for the next topic. first things first, gotta figure out how to pipe this thing up. Plenty of time for me til next heating season, just want to have my ducks in a row.

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grizzly2
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Posts: 842
Joined: Tue. Feb. 12, 2008 7:18 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 30 - 95
Coal Size/Type: pea and nut/ anthracite
Other Heating: Jotul #3 wood stove in garage. Oil backup in house. Electric backup in house.
Location: Whippleville, NY

Post Tue. Mar. 17, 2009 6:44 pm

Everyone here recommended the Field Controls type RC. It works great for me. Be aware that the barometric damper is available in grey or black, though not everyone carrys the black. I did not know at the time, and bought the grey one and had to paint it black. Try to avoid mounting it near an elbow or other fitting that might disturb smooth air flow.

I recommend Heat-Fab 22 gauge black single wall welded seam pipe from your stove to your chimney. Not as cheap as the snap together seam pipe, but will last many times longer. It is not only thicker, but seems to be of better quality steel as it does not corode nearly as fast. It is a lot less expensive than stainless steel pipe and stainless fittings such as "Ts" .

If need be, your pipe can slope in one direction. You simply rotate the baro. in the "T" until it is level. Your pipe must be plumb in one direction because you cannot adjust the baro level in two directions at once. Note that there is less resistance to air flow going through two 45* elbows than through one 90* elbow. Although a horizontal pipe instalation will work fine with the baro. (the adjustable weight must be on the left side of the weight bracket in a horizontal pipe instalation). However a horizontal run of pipe is a place that will build up fly ash to the point that you may have to let the fire go out to clean the pipe out durring the heating season. Some people use a "T" instead of an elbo to turn the pipe from vertical to horizontal and use a little hoe (homemade for the purpose) to pull the ash out of the pipe with the fire still going. Of course they keep a cap on that access side of the "T". One person who posts on this forum has therir baro insalled at this "T" insead of the cap. Although not recommended by Field Controls, he says it works just fine.

If the budget permits, almost everyone recommends installing a Dwyer Mark II Model 25 Inclined Manometer to monitor your stove pipe draft. Not an absolute necessity, but will alow you to adjust your baro. for best burn efficiency. Also can show you if something is wrong such as ash buildup on the baro. door, dying fire, downdrafts in wind and can help diagnose burn problems. Costs about $40.

Also a magnetic stove thermometer to put on the stove and another one to put on the stove pipe. These thermometers will tell you a lot about your fire, draft, output and wasted heat. Great information for diagnosing problems and efficiency. And at least one Carbon Monoxide detector. :)

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lowfog01
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Posts: 3895
Joined: Sat. Dec. 20, 2008 8:33 am
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Mark II & Mark I
Coal Size/Type: nut/pea
Location: Springfield, VA

Post Tue. Mar. 17, 2009 6:46 pm

You may want to consider using a T joint either as the 90* turn or putting a T on the straight pipe after the turn. Either way would provide you a spot for the baro. You could then use the baro opening as a clean out location to take care of mid season flyash build up.

How much length do you have on the horizontal chimney connector pipe before the 90* turn? Would a T joint fit there? If you used that T joint to make your turn, could you read/operate the baro out of the open end of the T? Or would the T then run into the wall? The baro will add a couple of inches to the length of the horizontal connector pipe and you still have to be able to read the gauge or open it for clean out. That may be your deciding factor. If the horizontal pipe doesn't work on your set up put the T on the vertical section of the chimney connector pipe after the turn. One advantage would be that the turn would catch the flyash and not effect your baro's operation. IMO they look cool in that location and that set up makes for easy visibility. I got the Field Control - RC model. It comes in a gray enamel or stove black.

You may want to ask your significant other the type of pipe they prefer. I went with the black because it fits my room décor better. I didn't try to hide the baro either, I like the way it looks, I think of it as my stove's lung. It's a great conversation starter when first time visitors drop over.

Oh yeah, don't forget to secure each pipe section to the next with a minimum of 3 screws. Burning coal can cause unplanned for "puff backs." I used self driving socket topped metal screws so I could use my socket driver instead of a screw driver.

I hope this has given you some things to consider when placing your baro. Lisa

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sourbeer
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Posts: 26
Joined: Wed. Mar. 11, 2009 5:40 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Hitzer 50-93

Post Tue. Mar. 17, 2009 9:08 pm

I'll take some measurements and a pic or 2 of my current set-up (wood stove) to get some recommendations. I do not mind the look of the baro, my current pipe is black. I like the idea of the solid weld joint pipe, as my snap togethor could be better. where is a good place to order the field controls baro? how about the pipe you mention?

I have 2 magnetic thermometers currently on my stove, one stove top and one on the vertical rise of the stack. I can borrow a manometer from work to set/calibrate the baro, or I can buy one.

CO detectors, I'll have to get but certainly will want some redundancy there. My chimney seems to have good draft, 20' tall or so. currently pulls very hard under some windy conditions, and I could probably use a manual damper in the stack for my woodstove but have been OK choking it down (good air tight stove). I hope to get my stove before summer time, and will plan to make a trip north to Superior for a few tons of bulk coal. I think 3 tons may be fine, if not there is a store on my way home from work that carries bagged blaschak coal or I can make another run north. I've got a 3/4 ton diesel truck and my father-in-law has a dump trailer or I can use my brothers 2 axle landscape trailer. Looks like Hegins, PA is less than 100 miles from me, pretty easy road trip.

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grizzly2
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Posts: 842
Joined: Tue. Feb. 12, 2008 7:18 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 30 - 95
Coal Size/Type: pea and nut/ anthracite
Other Heating: Jotul #3 wood stove in garage. Oil backup in house. Electric backup in house.
Location: Whippleville, NY

Post Wed. Mar. 18, 2009 6:25 pm

You can google for the parts you want. I ordered mine from the following: Manometer=
**Broken Link(s) Removed** Welded black pipe=
**Broken Link(s) Removed** baro damper= http://www.simplyplumbing.com You will find the pipe and the baro at many suppliers, on line or locally. I only found the manometer from the above supplier, though there must be others. :)

sourbeer
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Posts: 26
Joined: Wed. Mar. 11, 2009 5:40 pm
Stove/Furnace Make: Hitzer 50-93

Post Mon. Mar. 23, 2009 9:06 pm

Image

some pics of my current set-up and woodstove. I'm pretty well decided on a Hitzer 50-93 and have located one pretty close by. I need to get some welded seam stove pipe and a baro as well.

anyhow, here is my current stove putting out the heat as the temps got cold overnight.

below is the album with more pics. stove top temp gauge as well as stove pipe temp.

http://imageevent.com/saubier/misc

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Devil505
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Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: TLC-2000
Location: SE Massachusetts

Post Mon. Mar. 23, 2009 9:17 pm

Congrats on you decision to go with coal! I guarantee that you'll find coal 100% easier to control (it won't blow you out of the room with too much heat) & will require much less work to keep operating. Most of us start our stoves sometime in October & keep the same fire going all winter until maybe early April. Coal doesn't have to be kept dry (for a hand fired anyway) & won't bring bugs into your house.

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grizzly2
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Posts: 842
Joined: Tue. Feb. 12, 2008 7:18 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 30 - 95
Coal Size/Type: pea and nut/ anthracite
Other Heating: Jotul #3 wood stove in garage. Oil backup in house. Electric backup in house.
Location: Whippleville, NY

Post Tue. Mar. 24, 2009 7:16 pm

sourbeer,

Nice looking setup you have right now. That Englander sure looks huge compared to the Jotul 3 I have now in the garage.

I would put the baro about where your Rutland pipe thermometer is, put the thermometer about halfway between where it is now and the stove outlet, and put a "T" in place of the elbow where the pipe goes horizontal. Cap the extra 'T" opening and uncap for inspections and cleanout. You have lots of space to place and run all the parts of your installation. There are guys on this site that would give their eye teeth for a nice easy run like yours.

Good luck in getting your new stove. Look forward to pics when you get it installed.

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baldeagle
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Posts: 156
Joined: Tue. Jan. 15, 2008 9:12 am
Stove/Furnace Make: Hitzer 354
Stove/Furnace Model: Hitzer 503
Location: SW Penna.

Post Tue. Mar. 24, 2009 7:33 pm

sourbeer -- I believe you will be quite pleased with the ease of coal, especially in a "gravity-fed" stoker. For us,
about 15 minutes per day tending - 10 extra minutes to set out the ashes on trash day, a couple days piling bags
and a $2000+/year savings are all part of the rewards of watching the "blue ladies". baldeagle

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Qball
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Joined: Sun. Oct. 05, 2008 4:31 pm
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker Koker
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Location: Rhode Island
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Post Tue. Mar. 24, 2009 9:45 pm

My Hitzer set-up. The flex duct is a cold air return and the solid are my heat ducts. The baro I went with is a Fields Control 6 Inch Black Tee Joint Draft Control. Bought it at Ace Hardware and made a world of difference in the burn. In the future I would use tee's with caps instead of the elbows, so I don't have to remove the whole pipe to clean the fly ash.
baro.jpg

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