Cutting registers out?

 
Soccer918843
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Post by Soccer918843 » Fri. Oct. 16, 2020 9:31 pm

I have a finished basement with Sheetrock and a new to me coal stove down there I have a open stair way to the upstairs another room away that the coal stove is in. What is the best way to cut a register in the upstairs floor to the basement. And have it looked finished on both ends I do not have any ducting at all in the house. Thanks


 
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Spacecadet
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Post by Spacecadet » Sat. Oct. 17, 2020 11:19 am

Lowe’s has floor register vents of all different colors and designs. They also have wall/ceiling vents. Have to figure out where the floor studs are so you don’t cut the floor or ceiling into a joist.

 
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Post by franco b » Sat. Oct. 17, 2020 11:38 am

Remember it is not just getting the hot air up, but getting the cold return back down to the stove as well. There must be a loop.

 
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Post by Hoytman » Sat. Oct. 17, 2020 1:16 pm

franco b wrote:
Sat. Oct. 17, 2020 11:38 am
Remember it is not just getting the hot air up, but getting the cold return back down to the stove as well. There must be a loop.
Would there need to be a cold air return in each room?

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sat. Oct. 17, 2020 1:35 pm

NO---sounds like your stairway would cover your return cold air.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Oct. 17, 2020 1:57 pm

Hoytman wrote:
Sat. Oct. 17, 2020 1:16 pm
Would there need to be a cold air return in each room?
Only if a door is closed.

My 2nd floor bed room has a floor register near to above the kitchen range. 80+ degree air going up there. But if I close the bed room door there's no "loop" like Franco mentioned. With the door shut, the heavier cold bed room air trying to go down through that floor register blocks the lighter warm air trying to go up. The bed room temps drop until I open the door and the cold room air can go down the back stair case to return to the kitchen.

Paul

 
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Post by Holdencoal » Sat. Oct. 17, 2020 2:01 pm

For a fire safe setup I would invest in a fusible link resister......register.
Last edited by Holdencoal on Sun. Oct. 18, 2020 6:06 am, edited 1 time in total.


 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sat. Oct. 17, 2020 10:05 pm

EXPLAIN??????????????????????

 
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Post by Spacecadet » Sat. Oct. 17, 2020 10:55 pm

Holdencoal wrote:
Sat. Oct. 17, 2020 2:01 pm
For a fire safe setup I would invest in a fusible link resister.
Like Fred said ‘ please explain’

 
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Post by Holdencoal » Sun. Oct. 18, 2020 6:04 am

Fusible Link: A temperature sensitive device that holds the damper components in the open position, which in turn, allows air to pass through.

When the fusible link opens (because it melted), it releases the damper components to close, and they will stay closed until a new fusible link is installed.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sun. Oct. 18, 2020 7:42 am

KISS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)

 
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Post by Holdencoal » Sun. Oct. 18, 2020 7:49 am

I always tell people, yes the fire department came and put the fire out. They are hero’s to your neighbors because their house didn’t catch fire, but now your house has more water damage then it did fire damage. :what:

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sun. Oct. 18, 2020 7:55 am

I need ya to explain how I can hook one up to my HITZER 50-93.
Holdencoal wrote:
Sun. Oct. 18, 2020 6:04 am
Fusible Link: A temperature sensitive device that holds the damper components in the open position, which in turn, allows air to pass through.

When the fusible link opens (because it melted), it releases the damper components to close, and they will stay closed until a new fusible link is installed.

 
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Post by Holdencoal » Sun. Oct. 18, 2020 8:06 am

What are you trying to do, shut off the damper control on the back?

 
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Oct. 18, 2020 8:42 am

Fred.. the fusible safety link is for the floor registers. It helps slow down the fire spreading from room to room.


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