Vigilant II Is Just Humming Along!!!

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Sun. Dec. 17, 2017 9:46 pm

Rich W. wrote: ↑
Sun. Dec. 17, 2017 9:34 pm
Thanks guys, for the thoughts. I got back into the shop yesterday and went after the damper problem. The first thing I did was use my shop vac on all the points of possible restriction of the movement of the damper. I noticed that on the right hand side of the "hinge" there is a "seam," where two cast pieces butt up against one another. The right hand piece did not line up perfectly with the much larger left hand section, and in fact pushed the damper back a hair, closing the clearance just a bit. I wanted to see how the cast panels are assembled so I removed the firebrick from the right side wall. The firebrick was already loose, and when I removed it the damper suddenly had the clearance it needed to be easily engaged. I didn't go any farther with the disassembly, but I have to admit I don't understand what was going on to change the shape of things in there. Perhaps one of you who has gone through a complete disassembly can shed some light on how the firebrick was misbehaving. Anyway, I repositioned the firebrick, using the evidence of the old cement to place them in what I believe to be their original position. The damper still clears, and I'm back in business.

Nice! glad to hear. The bricks can and do get crap behind them as both sides of the stove have the indirect paths right above the bricks. Lots of vibration during the shake down too. I also noticed not all bricks are created equal and V.C. enjoys making their own bricks their own sizes as well.
I will be putting my 2310 back on line after relocating it to the basement, I moved it in pieces so I will link a thread, (Vigll's idea

) to this one as I put her back together.

VigIIPeaBurner · Post by **VigIIPeaBurner** » Mon. Dec. 18, 2017 9:53 am

Rich W, & Mike - I haven't had the right side of the stove out yet but have had the left side out to lube the shaker bar (hole visible in last pic). There is only one screw that attache the sides and the back at their lower inside corners. I've had to wiggle the sides into position, check clearances and then start cementing the firebrick in place.

There are differences in firebrick quality. I've only bought splits from the stove shop where I bought my stove nearly 20 years ago. The set that's inservice now is looking ragged but are still firmly in place. I think they have to be around 5-6 years old, maybe older. The triangle brick that sit on the side's ledge are original. I simply soak them, cement them into place and top coat them with furnace cement.

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Mon. Dec. 18, 2017 10:13 am

VigIIPeaBurner wrote: ↑
Mon. Dec. 18, 2017 9:53 am
Rich W, & Mike - I haven't had the right side of the stove out yet but have had the left side out to lube the shaker bar (hole visible in last pic). There is only one screw that attache the sides and the back at their lower inside corners. I've had to wiggle the sides into position, check clearances and then start cementing the firebrick in place.

There are differences in firebrick quality. I've only bought splits from the stove shop where I bought my stove nearly 20 years ago. The set that's inservice now is looking ragged but are still firmly in place. I think they have to be around 5-6 years old, maybe older. The triangle brick that sit on the side's ledge are original. I simply soak them, cement them into place and top coat them with furnace cement.

Yup, one screw is all that keeps the sides steady. Those triangle bricks go fo $45.00 smackaroo's, a piece of angle iron for a mold and some recastable cement is all that's needed to make your own

VigIIPeaBurner · Post by **VigIIPeaBurner** » Mon. Dec. 18, 2017 10:31 am

michaelanthony wrote: ↑
Mon. Dec. 18, 2017 10:13 am
Yup, one screw is all that keeps the sides steady. Those triangle bricks go fo $45.00 smackaroo's, a piece of angle iron for a mold and some recastable cement is all that's needed to make your own

Great idea!

I never looked as using angle iron as a mold.

No way I'd ever pay that kind of money for those tiny pieces.

Rich W. · Post by **Rich W.** » Mon. Dec. 18, 2017 11:45 am

How important is it to cement the bricks in place? Mine have evidence of cement, but are just loosely fit at this point. Is the cement merely for transporting the stove or does a tight fit serve an important purpose?

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Mon. Dec. 18, 2017 7:00 pm

Rich W. wrote: ↑
Mon. Dec. 18, 2017 11:45 am
How important is it to cement the bricks in place? Mine have evidence of cement, but are just loosely fit at this point. Is the cement merely for transporting the stove or does a tight fit serve an important purpose?

Kinda' like your bottom kitchen cabinets with a heavy counter on top, full of stuff, no one is shaking the room twice a day, yet they're screwed to the wall

Post by **franco b** » Mon. Dec. 18, 2017 7:24 pm

Rich W. wrote: ↑
Mon. Dec. 18, 2017 11:45 am
How important is it to cement the bricks in place? Mine have evidence of cement, but are just loosely fit at this point. Is the cement merely for transporting the stove or does a tight fit serve an important purpose?

I don't cement mine at all. Only a little furnace cement on the bottom front edge of the vertical back bricks to keep them leaning back. The coal holds them in place.

For the 45 degree bricks I tapered the long side of a split brick from about the half way point to about 1/4 inch thick. Then furnace cement to a feather edge. This makes a thickness of two split bricks at the bottom and no ash catching 45 degree bricks. That thickness is immaterial because gasses are circulated behind it anyway. Cheap Harbor Freight angle grinder, but with a diamond blade. Brick also cut a bit shorter to clear the front grill.

VigIIPeaBurner · Post by **VigIIPeaBurner** » Tue. Dec. 19, 2017 12:22 am

I cemented mine in place each time I replaced them. The last time I replaced the splits, I got detailed about the process in a thread. It might be somewhere in this thread.

In my 'yute' I was a mason's helper where I learned a few things. Short version is I cleaned the CI fairly well and kept it and the brick side to be cemented wet but not dripping. I made sure the furnace cement was a good 1/8" thick and troweled it into the brick surface. The cement side was worked into the CI. The finished job was left to dry for a few days and then I built a few kindling fires, each a little bigger than the last. Bricks are still in there and are doing the job despite looking pretty gnarly. One on the back is slightly loose but is held in place by the others along side. The bottom picture a few posts up was taken in August 2014 so the brick and angle piece has another 2 1/2 seasons on them.

Turbogeno · Post by **Turbogeno** » Wed. Dec. 20, 2017 3:59 pm

I’ve been burning Blaschak nut in the Vig. the last 2 years. It has some pretty small pieces in it. Twice last year and once this year it’s gotten stuck in the shaker system in a way I can’t dislodge it and it doesn’t burn. I have to shut it down to fix it. As I recall from last year a little piece was stuck in back behind one of the shaker bars preventing it from moving rearward. The stove is running now and I’m leaving it running for a while. It’s pretty easy to clear the ashes with the knife and poker so I can keep it running. I’m just wondering if anyone has had this happen and have you come up with a way to prevent it. I’m thinking short strokes in the middle of the throw might help.

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Wed. Dec. 20, 2017 4:54 pm

T, not a Vig. but I never do a full throw with my HITZER. About 2/3 does the job.

VigIIPeaBurner · Post by **VigIIPeaBurner** » Wed. Dec. 20, 2017 6:02 pm

I do full throws and have had it bind up. Even then I can usually get it to go in the opposite direction but not a full throw on the way back. I usually clears fairly soon after. If not, I let it burn and keep trying later on, maybe a day or so later.

Rich W. · Post by **Rich W.** » Wed. Dec. 20, 2017 7:35 pm

As above, but I find poking and “heaving” with my 1/4” by 24” rod to be at least as effective as the shaker. Sometimes I skip the shaker to keep from waking those who sleep later. I prefer to do both: shake to open the slots, and then poke to break the bridging and drop the ash.

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Wed. Dec. 20, 2017 8:53 pm

freetown fred wrote: ↑
Wed. Dec. 20, 2017 4:54 pm
T, not a Vig. but I never do a full throw with my HITZER. About 2/3 does the job.

That's about my range, not too fast, not too slow. I will go full throttle on occasion but S L O W L Y don't want to break nothin'

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Wed. Dec. 20, 2017 9:05 pm

Turbogeno wrote: ↑
Wed. Dec. 20, 2017 3:59 pm
I’ve been burning Blaschak nut in the Vig. the last 2 years. It has some pretty small pieces in it. Twice last year and once this year it’s gotten stuck in the shaker system in a way I can’t dislodge it and it doesn’t burn. I have to shut it down to fix it. As I recall from last year a little piece was stuck in back behind one of the shaker bars preventing it from moving rearward. The stove is running now and I’m leaving it running for a while. It’s pretty easy to clear the ashes with the knife and poker so I can keep it running. I’m just wondering if anyone has had this happen and have you come up with a way to prevent it. I’m thinking short strokes in the middle of the throw might help.

Hi Geno, I read your post a few more times and got me thinkin' alright stop clapping

well I've never had the pleasure of your situation in 5-6 yrs. I wondering if you're shaking too much and not leaving a little ash to block the new coal from getting behind the bars. When knifing the grates be careful not to push coal up in the rear. I knife my grates like slicing a fresh loaf of bread...gently.

edit: my smiles are on my preview page but won't load when I submit, just sayin' :crazy baby:

VigIIPeaBurner · Post by **VigIIPeaBurner** » Wed. Dec. 20, 2017 10:49 pm

michaelanthony wrote: ↑
Wed. Dec. 20, 2017 9:05 pm
Hi Geno, I read your post a few more times and got me thinkin' alright stop clapping well I've never had the pleasure of your situation in 5-6 yrs. I wondering if you're shaking too much and not leaving a little ash to block the new coal from getting behind the bars. When knifing the grates be careful not to push coal up in the rear. I knife my grates like slicing a fresh loaf of bread...gently.

edit: my smiles are on my preview page but won't load when I submit, just sayin' :crazy baby:

What Mike said except 3 x his number of years. I try to stop before more than a few reds drop through into the pan. Coal quality is the factor. If the coal has high ash, a lot of bone/slate, or the ash sets/fuses, it will bridge and require more knifing.

In those years I'd estimate I've run ~15 ton of nut, ~40 ton of pea, and ~ 2 ton of stove through this Vigilant II 2310. The only parts I've replaced is the front grill, one griddle quad, fire brick, front door and ash door gaskets. Many stones cleared the grates. I've dropped a grate a few times but reset it from below without shutting down. I just let the ash build up and work from underneath, pretty much by feel. I've had the stroke shortened by something wedged somewhere, probably the back of a grate. It usually frees up within a few strokes or it might take few days.