Leveling old floor joist with new?
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Leveling floor joists. Long story short. Repairing termite damage in kitchen. Replaced all the floor joists now its 2" higher then rest of house. The floor joists in this house run east west. The main load bearing wall through the center runs east west as well. House is over 100 years old so i guess they didnt understand spreading the load back then.
Anyway i dug and poured footings in the basement to support a beam i built to run north and south to raise the floor to meet the new floor height. Got it raised about 1.5" and it wont budge. Its just crushing together the beam and two floor joists above the main load. Im baffled now.
Do i live with the 1/2" difference or is there another solution? This has been an enormous project for this old man. Id sure like to see it through right. I know it might be hard to visualize what im saying but hopefully someone may have encountered something similar and suceeded.
Thanks
Anyway i dug and poured footings in the basement to support a beam i built to run north and south to raise the floor to meet the new floor height. Got it raised about 1.5" and it wont budge. Its just crushing together the beam and two floor joists above the main load. Im baffled now.
Do i live with the 1/2" difference or is there another solution? This has been an enormous project for this old man. Id sure like to see it through right. I know it might be hard to visualize what im saying but hopefully someone may have encountered something similar and suceeded.
Thanks
- freetown fred
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Just take a board the same thickness as your rise & 45* one edge--nail it, stain it--wa-la--my house is 200+ yrs old & it just is what it is--I tried jacking & many other things. I had a 1 7/8 lip. Ya get used to it even with my cane.
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- Rob R.
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The transition piece mentioned by Fred is the cheap and simple solution, but it is also a toe catcher for guests. Up to you if that is acceptable or not.
Is the kitchen floor already down? Depending on the span and size of joists, you might be able to rip 1/2" off the joists.
Are you remodeling any of the rest of the house? The kitchen entrance is a high traffic area - you might be able to add a 1/2 subfloor to one of the existing rooms and have the toe catcher in an area that sees a lot less traffic.
Is the kitchen floor already down? Depending on the span and size of joists, you might be able to rip 1/2" off the joists.
Are you remodeling any of the rest of the house? The kitchen entrance is a high traffic area - you might be able to add a 1/2 subfloor to one of the existing rooms and have the toe catcher in an area that sees a lot less traffic.
- freetown fred
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Damn, if no-one has a problem with my 1 7/8" taper--a 1/2" will be a cake walk. PS F, use any taper acceptable mine just happens to be a 45*.
- D-frost
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Fig,
I'm guessing that your North/South beam is trying to raise the East/ West load bearing wall. If that is where its binding, put a lally column jack (adjustible 2-piece pipe with a screw bolt on the top) under the wall and raise it the 1/2" so that the North/South beam is lifting only the floor joust.
A pic is worth a thousand words..........just sayin'!
Cheers
I'm guessing that your North/South beam is trying to raise the East/ West load bearing wall. If that is where its binding, put a lally column jack (adjustible 2-piece pipe with a screw bolt on the top) under the wall and raise it the 1/2" so that the North/South beam is lifting only the floor joust.
A pic is worth a thousand words..........just sayin'!
Cheers
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Thanks for the tips guys.
I need to level the floors in all the rooms. Just started at this end because i was replacing the floor joists in the kitchen. Ill get some pics of wht it is doing. I think the suggestion to get under the wall and lift then catch up with the floor joists may work. Im wondering if the old concrete will hold. Ill be sure and stack a couple of 2x8"s under the jack. I have lolly columns under the beam and i had to pour 2'x2'x2' footings under them because the concrete wasnt up to the job. As i dug those footings i dug up alot of coal. Either a vein under my house or they just poured over the coal pile...lol
Couple of pics of the floor joists i put in. The wall on the right side is the main load bearing wall running the span of the house. As you can see it runs in the same direction and sit on only a few joists. So getting between the joists and lifting then jacking the beam half an inch to meet might actually work.
Ill get pics from the basement view. Im not home at the moment.
I need to level the floors in all the rooms. Just started at this end because i was replacing the floor joists in the kitchen. Ill get some pics of wht it is doing. I think the suggestion to get under the wall and lift then catch up with the floor joists may work. Im wondering if the old concrete will hold. Ill be sure and stack a couple of 2x8"s under the jack. I have lolly columns under the beam and i had to pour 2'x2'x2' footings under them because the concrete wasnt up to the job. As i dug those footings i dug up alot of coal. Either a vein under my house or they just poured over the coal pile...lol
Couple of pics of the floor joists i put in. The wall on the right side is the main load bearing wall running the span of the house. As you can see it runs in the same direction and sit on only a few joists. So getting between the joists and lifting then jacking the beam half an inch to meet might actually work.
Ill get pics from the basement view. Im not home at the moment.
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- D-frost
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Fig,
If the wall is directly over a joist, use a lateral piece of steel or a double 2x6 that reaches to the next joist on both sides of the wall, so that when jacking, you don't mess up the sub-floor. You probably will have to shim any lally holding up the wall, if it's close to where you're jacking.
I think that will work for you.
Cheers
If the wall is directly over a joist, use a lateral piece of steel or a double 2x6 that reaches to the next joist on both sides of the wall, so that when jacking, you don't mess up the sub-floor. You probably will have to shim any lally holding up the wall, if it's close to where you're jacking.
I think that will work for you.
Cheers
- freetown fred
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F, what's goin on with the walls in the house with all this jacking??Have you gutted the house?
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I'm kind of with Fred here. Heck, my kitchen floor drops 3/4 inch in about 4 feet but is level on both sides of the drop. My approach is to stabilize what is there, but not try to move it up or down after it has adjusted itself for 160 years. It's hard to jack a floor without it raising a wall, and the wall must raise whatever is above it. Seems like I could tear my house apart with that little screw adjuster on the lolly column.freetown fred wrote: ↑Thu. Aug. 27, 2020 11:05 amJust take a board the same thickness as your rise & 45* one edge--nail it, stain it--wa-la--my house is 200+ yrs old & it just is what it is--I tried jacking & many other things. I had a 1 7/8 lip. Ya get used to it even with my cane.
Last edited by rberq on Thu. Aug. 27, 2020 7:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- warminmn
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Any jacking do reeeeeelly slow. I forget how much per week.
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Yes, I have been told the same thing. The floor bone's connected to the wall bone, the wall bone's connected to the ceiling bone, the ceiling bone's connected to the roof bone, and every time you move something an eighth of inch the rest of the building takes time to adjust, if the parts CAN adjust.
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Well termites destroyed the kitchen floor and about 4 joists so i tore the whole kitchen floor and joists out up to where the load bearing center wall is. When i put the new joists in and leveled them the kitchen floor was 2 inches higher then all the other floors.
It was my intentions to level up my floors in my house at some point so i figure now is that point.
The house is split faced block and it is sagging so much in the center you can see it in the peak of the roofline outside.
When it was built they didnt really support that main load bearing wall that runs through the center of the house and in some places its really sagging bad. I figure i better do it now while im still somewhat able. Its been a long job. I started in march....lol. I get sidetracked easily.
I had to move my coal furnace and ductwork to put the beam in so i decided id better get on the ball so i can prepare for cooler weather.
I also picked up a bigger furnace. Im eager to see if i can get somee longer burn times. Its a Clayton and is bigger then my hotblast so im hoping ill get at least 12 hour burns on bit. It was only $100 so i figured what the heck ill try it and if it doesnt work out ill get my money back.
It was my intentions to level up my floors in my house at some point so i figure now is that point.
The house is split faced block and it is sagging so much in the center you can see it in the peak of the roofline outside.
When it was built they didnt really support that main load bearing wall that runs through the center of the house and in some places its really sagging bad. I figure i better do it now while im still somewhat able. Its been a long job. I started in march....lol. I get sidetracked easily.
I had to move my coal furnace and ductwork to put the beam in so i decided id better get on the ball so i can prepare for cooler weather.
I also picked up a bigger furnace. Im eager to see if i can get somee longer burn times. Its a Clayton and is bigger then my hotblast so im hoping ill get at least 12 hour burns on bit. It was only $100 so i figured what the heck ill try it and if it doesnt work out ill get my money back.
- freetown fred
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F, I leveled my kitchen floor with intent to do all--this house is 200 yrs old--upon starting to SLOWLY jack up from pseudo- basement--my walls started to crack--I figured it had been here for 200 yrs so why do more damage--the kitchen was important due to momma cookin in the oven & stove top plus refrigerator & freezer, microwave, etc. PS--I've got tree logs as my floor supports.
Last edited by freetown fred on Thu. Aug. 27, 2020 9:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.