Whitewash

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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Tue. May. 26, 2020 12:34 pm

I recently removed the fuel tank from my basement, and the foundation in that area is a different color than the rest. The rest of the foundation has been coated with something, and I suspect it is whitewash. Whatever it is rubs off if you brush against it. I am not optimistic that regular paint would adhere to this very well, but I would like to re-coat the walls and brighten things up.

Take a look at the pictures and let me know what you think. If we agree that whitewash would be a good way to brighten things up down there, I'd welcome your favorite recipe.

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Post by coaledsweat » Tue. May. 26, 2020 1:00 pm

UGL Drylock.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Tue. May. 26, 2020 2:13 pm

coaledsweat wrote:
Tue. May. 26, 2020 1:00 pm
UGL Drylock.
You're thinking that is what is on the wall presently?

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Tue. May. 26, 2020 2:53 pm

Yes, and what you should use to freshen it.

 
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Post by Hoytman » Tue. May. 26, 2020 9:19 pm

Why would you think it is Drylok?

Not saying Drylok would peel like that because it might but I’ve not seen it. Even then I would be suspect of application. It’s really a superior product.

How old do you think this white stuff is?
Do you think it was meant as a paint or water proofing of some sort?

I’ve seen Thoroseal get soft in a cistern, but I have never seen Drylok paint or Drylok powder cistern water proofing soften and rub off like chalk. Usually, sun faded paint can do similarly. Obviously, sun isn’t the issue here.

In zero sun light Drylok, unless it was a bad batch, should remain hard and in tact...as it soaks into the pores and not just on the surface.

With that, I could still be wrong. Old time whitewash will rub off too.

Edit:
I didn’t look at pictures up close until now.

That is certainly some sort of waterproofing barrier like Drylok or Thoroseal. There are others. I doubt it’s Drylok though.

I would power wash it off if you can and have a drain. You could try and chip most of it off and however this is done will likely be less mess than power washing.

Three years ago I resealed my cistern. It had old Thoroseal on it that had softened to the point a power washer would blow it off. Upon seeing that it was soft ( I didn’t test it first) I found I could scratch it with my fingers.

All that soft stuff had to come off, and a power washer fit the bill perfectly. I also found soft block I could put my fingers through. After repair with 50 lbs of hydraulic cement to repair the holes in the block I was able to begin sealing again. Some still hard Thoroseal remained. If possible it’s best to remove it all but not always possible.


http://www.drylok.com/products/drylok-powdered-ma ... roofer.php

I used this to reseal the cistern as it’s nsf certified for potable water. I did two coats. Key...is following directions and wetting surface before application AND and specified intervals while drying. A simple hand pump sprayer can be used to re-wet the surface to aid in gardening. It soaks into pores and really gets rock hard if you wait then re-wet and then finish waiting before 2nd coat. First coat should fully cure if you let it and you must re-wet it. I did this cistern does not leak at all. I checked. Filled completely full running over and closed the kid for a week. Still as full a week later as when I filled it. Obviously, on good concrete or block this would be even better, but so far it is holding nicely. I will use it again when I build a new and bigger cistern. Drylok powder is a much better product than Thoroseal. so is Drylok paint. We did waterproofing testing on it in college 9 years ago and it won hands down. Prep is key removing any loose material. A pressure washer works great for this and a good strong shop vac to clean up the mess. A lot of work, but worth it.


 
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. May. 27, 2020 9:16 am

My cistern has been abandoned since 1980 or so. The inside of it is lined with clay.

I have no desire to use a pressure washer in my basement. I just think that would make a huge mess, and I am not comfortable spraying water around all of the electrical down there. Whatever that coating is has been there a very long time, based on some things that were or were not attached to the foundation when the costing was applied I would estimate it is from 1970 or before. If it is a water proofing coating it was a futile exercise, since the concrete floor has no vapor barrier under it and moisture goes through it easily.

The 7 months of the year I run my EFM keeps the basement very dry, but during the summer I need to run a dehumidifier.

 
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Post by Holdencoal » Wed. May. 27, 2020 9:42 am

IMO, I prefer Ames water proof coatings. I used it on a wet basement and it worked great.

 
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Post by Hoytman » Wed. May. 27, 2020 10:33 am

Unless you can get the loose stuff off it is unlikely any product will last. Whatever you use, you need to be sure there is no hydraulic water pressure pushing from the outside in towards the basement, like saturated soil that stays wet. If you have that, you first need to fix the drainage issue outside. IF the building/home is located in a swale, then good luck with fixing that because it will likely be expensive. I suspect you don't have that issue.

You could always use some floor scrapers on the walls and wire wheel on a heavy grinder, but there will be dust so be prepared. Often times this stuff can sheet off in small sections and a good hammer and some tapping may loosen some of what isn't sticking well. Anything stuck, is likely stuck, being it is that old, or may all be loose. Drylok powder I mentioned, as well as Drylok paint can withstand outside water pressure making it a good choice from simple clear spray on sealants. Adhesion is critical though. Can't blame you for not wanting to use the pressure washer.

Ideas are slim pickin's for do it yourselfer's and hiring someone can empty a wallet in short order and may require extensive drainage solving problems not only for the walls, but for the floor as well.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. May. 27, 2020 2:29 pm

I am not interested in water proofing my basement. The house basement has a daylight drain, and any water that does seep in through the cracks after heavy rains quickly drains away. Most of the time it is bone dry.

I am just looking for a cheap & easy way to brighten things up down there, and the existing coating made me wonder what would be the best approach. Latex paint seemed like a bad idea, regardless of what the existing coating was made of. I am not really interested in anything that will bubble or peel off later.

I think I will try whitewash on the area that was previously un-coated and see how it turns out.

 
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Post by Hoytman » Wed. May. 27, 2020 3:51 pm

Easy peasy, then. Knock the loose stuff off because nothing is going to stick to the loose stuff...even a clear sealer because when the chunk comes off the sealer goes with it. That's first. Drylok paint (and/or the waterproofing powder)...each soaks into any existing porous surface. It's just a byproduct of how the product works...better than simple paint or whitewash. Latex will peel eventually. If you can look up close and see it is porous, then you are good to go. They can tint it any color you want and it comes bright white. You get double bang for your buck. The drylok "paint" (different than the powder and cistern waterproofing, but works in a similar fashion, but paint is thinner) will still offer you some waterproofing protection whether you want/need it or not. It's how the product works. In goes into...not on top of. On top of will eventually peel off. Who knows? After 25-100 years the Drylok may come off as well.

Cheapest is any old junk white paint or whitewash you can make up with lime...beware of it coming off on your hands over time or worse, peeling off. Depends on how many times you want to do it. LOL!!! I don't care what you do. It has to suit your needs. I'm just giving you options and pro's and con's. Whitewash is fine by me. I'm sure you remember folks whitewashing the trunks of trees. Nearly everyone used to do that.


 
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Post by Holdencoal » Wed. May. 27, 2020 5:32 pm

I second Hoytman

 
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Post by wilder11354 » Sun. Jun. 14, 2020 12:06 pm

how old is the foundation? block built? what type of blocks? Cinder or concrete?

 
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Jun. 14, 2020 8:46 pm

wilder11354 wrote:
Sun. Jun. 14, 2020 12:06 pm
how old is the foundation? block built? what type of blocks? Cinder or concrete?
Foundation is from 1910. Poured concrete, 20" thick walls. I ended up talking to the previous owner of the home and asking him about that coating on the basement walls. He said it was something his grandparents had done in the 1960's, and that it was some sort of whitewash with glue or something mixed to make it harden.

I ended up putting a coat of masonry primer over it and I am happy with the results.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Sat. Apr. 03, 2021 11:20 am

We have a large brick chimney in the living room that had some staining/efflorescence from flashing leaks years ago. My wife has asked me to paint it several times and I have always refused because I was told you should not paint brick (and I thought it would look funny). Well, we were watching a home improvement show where they were using "limewash" to lighten up some brick. The benefit of this compared to paint is the masonry can still breath, and you can wipe off the limewash for a few days to get a distressed look.

We decided to give it a try and ordered a bucket of limewash online. It comes about the consistency of warm ice cream, and you have to add 50-70% water by volume to get the right consistency. Spray the brick with some water, brush the limewash on with a masonry brush, and let it dry. If you want to whip some off, that is easy to do the following day with a spray bottle of water and a cloth. We wiped just enough off to let the brick show through in a few spots. The pictures don't really capture that very well but you get the idea. Overall we are very happy with the results, it was an easy 1 day project and it really lightened up the room.

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