Seeking guidance for a pressure switch change on Well's Pressure Tank

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Sat. May. 09, 2020 9:26 am

To get a bit better water pressure in the house I'm considering swapping out our 30/50 switch for a 40/60. How much of a headache does this operation generally entail, and what pitfalls should I be on the lookout for?

Also, we have about the tiniest pressure tank on earth, and it is constantly refilling. I'm considering switching it out for a ballpark 82 to 86 gallon tank with ballpark 32 to 36 gallon water capacity. Any advice here is welcome also.

I believe the rule of thumb is to pressurize the bladder to 2 PSI below the low for the switch, so for my case with a 40 PSI to 60 PSI switch this would mean pressurizing the empty tank to 38 PSI. Does this sound correct?


 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sat. May. 09, 2020 9:59 am

If the switch wiring is run through EMT make sure the replacement has the port in the same place. Other than that the change shouldn't have any issues. As far as setting the pressure, I've seen it on the web enough times, just don't recall the process.

 
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Post by lsayre » Sat. May. 09, 2020 10:05 am

coaledsweat wrote:
Sat. May. 09, 2020 9:59 am
If the switch wiring is run through EMT make sure the replacement has the port in the same place. Other than that the change shouldn't have any issues. As far as setting the pressure, I've seen it on the web enough times, just don't recall the process.
EMT = tubing?

 
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Post by franpipeman » Sat. May. 09, 2020 10:40 am

Before you make any changes to your pressure switch make sure you tank is working properly and not water logged. you are describing the symptoms of a water logged tank IS your tank bladder less or does it have a air or water bladder in. A proper tank air charge should make the tank sound empty or hollow when you tap it. if it is heavy when pushing or sounds solid when tapping it it a little, bladder or tank is water logged which results in short cycling and low water volume that decreases quickly. could be a small leak in bladder. Or hot summer days the condensation line should be around 1/3 tanks height or less with proper air charge.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sat. May. 09, 2020 11:03 am

EMT, electrical metal tubing. If it is a flexible wire, there should be no problem. If it has a pre bent metal tube protecting the wires, moving its entry to the switch may be a problem. For instance, currently the tube terminates at the left side of the switch and the new switch only has a port on the right.

 
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Post by McGiever » Sat. May. 09, 2020 11:20 am

Ask yourself:
Has pressure been same from day one as it is now?

Typically a 220volt pump's pressure switch 'breaks' both 'legs' of 220 volt circuit...110volt only needs to 'break' one leg, the black/hot leg.

Storage tank size controls pump cycle interval...unless compromised.

I like to have 220volt neon indicator or panel (pigtail) light wired in parallel with pump motor to see 'on' cycles.
Last edited by McGiever on Sat. May. 09, 2020 11:37 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by johnjoseph » Sat. May. 09, 2020 11:33 am

I had issues with my 86 gallon pressure tank last fall. Added the appropriate amount of air and corrected the issue. I think your issue will be solved with a larger pressure tank only. I replaced my smaller pressure tank after 6 months in this home, and haven't had an issue except for the aforementioned.


 
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Post by McGiever » Sat. May. 09, 2020 11:46 am

Larry, things can go bad down the bore hole sometimes also.

You may have excessive run times happening due to one of many possible issues.

An accurate diagnosis can fix specific issue rather than 'throwing money' at a random unkown...
Last edited by McGiever on Sat. May. 09, 2020 11:48 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Sat. May. 09, 2020 11:48 am

lsayre wrote:
Sat. May. 09, 2020 9:26 am
To get a bit better water pressure in the house I'm considering swapping out our 30/50 switch for a 40/60. How much of a headache does this operation generally entail, and what pitfalls should I be on the lookout for?
Swapping a pressure switch is normally a straightforward job. As mentioned above, if the existing wiring is in conduit make sure the new switch will mount in the same orientation. I normally replace the nipple between the switch and tank tee along with the switch.
Also, we have about the tiniest pressure tank on earth, and it is constantly refilling. I'm considering switching it out for a ballpark 82 to 86 gallon tank with ballpark 32 to 36 gallon water capacity. Any advice here is welcome also.
The size of the tank is matched to the output of your well pump. The goal is to get an draw down capacity and appropriate run time for the pump. If you know the output of your well pump, see how it lines up on this sizing chart: https://www.rcworst.com/Shared/content/mfr/amtrol ... sizing.pdf
I believe the rule of thumb is to pressurize the bladder to 2 PSI below the low for the switch, so for my case with a 40 PSI to 60 PSI switch this would mean pressurizing the empty tank to 38 PSI. Does this sound correct?
That is correct. Before you buy any parts I would check the air pressure in your existing tank (water pressure needs to be at zero to do this).

 
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Post by McGiever » Sat. May. 09, 2020 11:52 am

Yes, checking tank pressure means 'air pressure' on air side of bladder...done with a tire gauge.
Last edited by McGiever on Sat. May. 09, 2020 11:53 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by johnjoseph » Sat. May. 09, 2020 11:53 am

I honestly agree with Mcgiever. Having a professional diagnosis would be wise. And if they guarantee their work for an acceptable time it may be worth having someone you trust tackle the issue head on. But, other factors remain on affability,etc.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Sat. May. 09, 2020 11:56 am

Having the information about the well itself would be very helpful, both for DIY and a for a professional.

 
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Post by McGiever » Sat. May. 09, 2020 12:03 pm

Rob R. wrote:
Sat. May. 09, 2020 11:56 am
Having the information about the well itself would be very helpful, both for DIY and a for a professional.
Yes, mfg'r usually provide a pump/motor specification sticker/label that installer adds to include well depth and then gets applied to pump controller box cover, if there is a controller...

Short of knowing pump/motor specs, you may assume it to be 10gpm and be ballpark...

All well drillers are required by law to keep records of any/all wells drilled...
Last edited by McGiever on Sat. May. 09, 2020 12:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Sat. May. 09, 2020 12:09 pm

I like the WellMate brand tanks. They are composite and have a replaceable air bladder.

The output of the existing pump can be calculated based on the draw down capacity of the current tank and the time required for the pump to cycle from on to off.

 
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Post by McGiever » Sat. May. 09, 2020 12:13 pm

Larry, Menards is your friend...;)


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