fixing up front porch

 
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wilder11354
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Post by wilder11354 » Sun. Oct. 28, 2018 5:42 pm

Not the best i can do, but working with a bad situation and make it a bit better. Deck boards rotted, roof supports rotted, under frame work pressure treated lumber, decking was rough cut pine. It all rotted. Got porch roof raised back up 7" to about here it was, double asphalt shingle roof bad, so custom order short steel panels and screwed it right down to what was there, budget wise it works.
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small part clse to camera.. all rotted, except for very end.

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still working on it slowly.

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looking from unfinihed end to somewhat done end. Want to close it far end, walls and temporary plasic for this winter on upper half

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steel roof, and other lumber. To build a smalller coal bin on porch

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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Oct. 28, 2018 5:46 pm

You screwed steel over two layers of shingles?

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sun. Oct. 28, 2018 6:02 pm

Two layers with pearling's is code over this way. Any more, ya gotta tear off.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sun. Oct. 28, 2018 6:19 pm

Pearlings?

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Oct. 28, 2018 6:37 pm

Purlins...

 
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wilder11354
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Post by wilder11354 » Sun. Oct. 28, 2018 6:49 pm

Rob R. wrote:
Sun. Oct. 28, 2018 5:46 pm
You screwed steel over two layers of shingles?
yep.. no purlins. 2.5 inch roof screws. eventually it will wear through... but that will be many years.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sun. Oct. 28, 2018 6:59 pm

Usually 1X4's laid horizontal to screw metal roofing to--hell, purlins/pearlings- they both begin with a "P" LOL-
coaledsweat wrote:
Sun. Oct. 28, 2018 6:19 pm
Pearlings?


 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Oct. 28, 2018 7:01 pm

freetown fred wrote:
Sun. Oct. 28, 2018 6:02 pm
Two layers with pearling's is code over this way. Any more, ya gotta tear off.
When dealing with an old structure, sometimes even the minimum code requirements won't keep you out of trouble. In this case I suppose the steel will reduce the snow load, so it is probably a wash - but it is always a good idea to strip old shingles before putting steel on.

 
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Post by freetown fred » Sun. Oct. 28, 2018 7:45 pm

Yep, did that on my house--what a can of worms that was-- BUT--been good for 20+ yrs.

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Post by lsayre » Sun. Oct. 28, 2018 8:01 pm

Fred, I didn't know that your house was magnetic. Now that's just flat out cool!!! :clap:

 
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Post by NoSmoke » Mon. Oct. 29, 2018 5:52 am

Looks good to me Wilder. Sometimes you got to just make it work, especially right before winter.

So far we have been pretty lucky here with no building codes to contend with. One woman blew in from out of state and tried to get the National Building Code passed in town, but everyone here has a sawmill which would have negated the use of rough sawn lumber.

It was a close vote though...oh not on the building code nonsense, we shot that down like a 16 point buck on opening day, nope, on whether or not the woman should be tarred and feathered and run out of town on the rails. Its been a few months since this town has done that, so a few people were itching to get rid of feathers and tar.

As for the rough lumber though, I admit I have used some literally shaky hemlock lumber before, but I have also seen some VERY questionable lumber at Lowes and Home Depot that was "stamped" and looked a lot worse then my rough sawn lumber. Ink does not make a rafter sound.

 
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wilder11354
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Post by wilder11354 » Mon. Nov. 05, 2018 2:01 pm

dreary wet day but i need to get this end closed up some.
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now to put frame work in upper half for plastic film, so i can put table saw out here and a few other items which sit in living room of this part of house. Gonna have to coat table saw top with a grease or something to prevent rusting, fluid film on other things underneath top of saw, than tarp over.

 
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Post by rberq » Mon. Nov. 05, 2018 2:12 pm

wilder11354 wrote:
Mon. Nov. 05, 2018 2:01 pm
Gonna have to coat table saw top with a grease or something to prevent rusting
Automotive paste wax.

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Nov. 05, 2018 2:30 pm

Don't use grease unless you don't plan to glue or varnish whatever wood you cut. You'll have to wash it off with solvent each time you use the saw.

Trick I learned doing woodwork in boat yards. Cover cast iron saw tables with candle wax shavings and hit it with torch or electric heat gun to get it to melt and spread. Then polish off the excess wax with steel wool. That way, it won't leave enough wax to effect gluing, or finishing the wood.

Use the same for the saw blades to reduce binding, horse power drain, and heat build up.

Paul

 
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wilder11354
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Other Heating: crown oil boiler, backup.if needed

Post by wilder11354 » Mon. Nov. 05, 2018 5:25 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:
Mon. Nov. 05, 2018 2:30 pm
Don't use grease unless you don't plan to glue or varnish whatever wood you cut. You'll have to wash it off with solvent each time you use the saw.

Trick I learned doing woodwork in boat yards. Cover cast iron saw tables with candle wax shavings and hit it with torch or electric heat gun to get it to melt and spread. Then polish off the excess wax with steel wool. That way, it won't leave enough wax to effect gluing, or finishing the wood.

Use the same for the saw blades to reduce binding, horse power drain, and heat build up.

Paul
think i will try that.. candles are cheapo, and have electric hot air gun.


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