Need A New Chainsaw
- coaledsweat
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Looking at a Johnsered 2255. Want a 20", light and reliable. I see a lot of the newer saws have tool less bar adjustment, not warm and fuzzy with that contraption. Need some input from you wizards. I've had a Poulan Pro for 25 years with zero grief up until the carb stuff started. Rebuilt the carb and it runs but refuses to idle. Would like a newer saw that starts easy, the PP was always a bit bitchy in that department.
- coaledsweat
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Does that one have the easy start thingy? I'm thinking my worn out body would like that! Tool less bar?
- McGiever
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Still have 1970 McCullough gas unit if and when I might use it, starts first or second pull.
But you would be amazed at what a 40 or 56 volt lithium battery powered saw will do. Got one and love it.
Starts every time.
But you would be amazed at what a 40 or 56 volt lithium battery powered saw will do. Got one and love it.
Starts every time.
- warminmn
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Stihl. You get what you pay for. Most models have the easy starting option available at an increased cost, of course.
If your just need to cut a little wood a year the cost may not make sense though.
If your just need to cut a little wood a year the cost may not make sense though.
- Sunny Boy
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For what it's worth.
My Sears 18 in Craftsman (Poulan) gave up with the alcohol gas. Put in a new fuel line and cleaned the carb, but it still won't run right. Rather than sink more money into a 25 year old saw that has cut down it's share of trees and even an old barn, I decided to replace it. Not many choices here in the sticks.
So, I just bought a 18 in Husqvarna 440 at Lowes. Nice and light, and has the priming bulb, but it's still not easy to start. It has the idiot chain brake clutch handle that resets itself before each start. That adds more drag when trying to start it.
Plus, I find that once I get it to kick over, it won't run at a high enough speed to overcome the brake clutch, which stalls it. I have to pull the throttle lever and jam my foot under it to keep the throttle open enough so that it will run until I can move the chain brake handle to the release position. Otherwise it will just kick and stall on each starting pull.
And the kill switch is not on-off type like the Sears. It's on all the time and only has a momentary off position, so you have to disable the spark plug any time you fiddle with it. If the motor gets accidentally turned it could possible start.
Because it's not a heavy higher HP motor, it uses a narrow cut blade with shorter teeth to take strain off the motor. Seems to bind more easily in the cut than the wider, more common 3/8 Oregon blades of my Craftsman. And, I like to have a spare blade on hand, but these narrow kerf ones are more expensive.
One other thing. I'm finding that only using the E-free 91 octane gasoline is working much better in all my small engines than the alcohol gas !!!!
Paul
My Sears 18 in Craftsman (Poulan) gave up with the alcohol gas. Put in a new fuel line and cleaned the carb, but it still won't run right. Rather than sink more money into a 25 year old saw that has cut down it's share of trees and even an old barn, I decided to replace it. Not many choices here in the sticks.
So, I just bought a 18 in Husqvarna 440 at Lowes. Nice and light, and has the priming bulb, but it's still not easy to start. It has the idiot chain brake clutch handle that resets itself before each start. That adds more drag when trying to start it.
Plus, I find that once I get it to kick over, it won't run at a high enough speed to overcome the brake clutch, which stalls it. I have to pull the throttle lever and jam my foot under it to keep the throttle open enough so that it will run until I can move the chain brake handle to the release position. Otherwise it will just kick and stall on each starting pull.
And the kill switch is not on-off type like the Sears. It's on all the time and only has a momentary off position, so you have to disable the spark plug any time you fiddle with it. If the motor gets accidentally turned it could possible start.
Because it's not a heavy higher HP motor, it uses a narrow cut blade with shorter teeth to take strain off the motor. Seems to bind more easily in the cut than the wider, more common 3/8 Oregon blades of my Craftsman. And, I like to have a spare blade on hand, but these narrow kerf ones are more expensive.
One other thing. I'm finding that only using the E-free 91 octane gasoline is working much better in all my small engines than the alcohol gas !!!!
Paul
- Richard S.
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Jonsered is owned by Husky..... If you want a really good saw go to a Stihl or Husky dealer and look at the mid and pro models. You're not going to find those saws on the big box store shelves. The ones in the stores are "homeowner" saws, even the big names like Husky. You'll pay more but it's worth it.
Quick tip for the Stihl, flip it over and there is a little hole with oil drop next to it. You need a small screw driver. Turn that sucker up to 11.
Quick tip for the Stihl, flip it over and there is a little hole with oil drop next to it. You need a small screw driver. Turn that sucker up to 11.
- Richard S.
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You can buy ethanol free pre mixed gas at most dealers but it's expensive. If you don't use the saw that often probably worth it. I always dump the gas out when I'm done, run it dry and then let the fuel cap off overnight.Sunny Boy wrote:
One other thing. I'm finding that only using the E-free 91 octane gasoline is working much better in all my small engines than the alcohol gas !!!!
Paul
- davidmcbeth3
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I got a remington electric that I've had for 20+ yrs ... works fine
Zero exp. with gas ones.
Guess one would need a gas one if going into the woods .. or for chopping heads off "Hey, come back, I don't have another extension cord!"
Zero exp. with gas ones.
Guess one would need a gas one if going into the woods .. or for chopping heads off "Hey, come back, I don't have another extension cord!"
- Richard S.
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One of the big differences between electric and gas other than the obvious is the power to weight ratio. Electric saws are heavy...
That said if I'm just trimming small branches I have a battery operated sawzall I use for that.
That said if I'm just trimming small branches I have a battery operated sawzall I use for that.
-
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If you have an old saw you like and it doesnt run, forget the carb rebuild and buy a new carb and inline filter and youll be back in business. Ive tried industrial ultrasonic cleaners and new parts and no matter they always mess up again. If your gonna buy new, stay away from big box. I have a 30 old stihl with 20" bar and a new carb> happy, happy, happy
- McGiever
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Maybe useta-be...maybe corded electric, but not so w/ lithium battery and the 'brushless' dc motors today...heck the throttl/switch runs variable speed.Richard S. wrote:One of the big differences between electric and gas other than the obvious is the power to weight ratio. Electric saws are heavy...
Hearing protection is optional, who care of ethanol cr@p.
- CoalHeat
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Stihl.
I have 2 identical 1980's Craftsman (Poulan) saws, but I don't use them much since I found coal.
Have a Stihl trimmer and blower, completely satisfied with the performance.
I have 2 identical 1980's Craftsman (Poulan) saws, but I don't use them much since I found coal.
Have a Stihl trimmer and blower, completely satisfied with the performance.
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coaledsweat wrote:Looking at a Johnsered 2255. Want a 20", light and reliable. I see a lot of the newer saws have tool less bar adjustment, not warm and fuzzy with that contraption. Need some input from you wizards. I've had a Poulan Pro for 25 years with zero grief up until the carb stuff started. Rebuilt the carb and it runs but refuses to idle. Would like a newer saw that starts easy, the PP was always a bit bitchy in that department.
Sthil MS270 Farm Boss, the perfect homeowner saw.