Wiring Experts, 110/220 Volt Reversing Switch Question

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sun. Sep. 04, 2016 2:03 pm

I have a vintage 1968 Bridgeport, it has the pancake motor. It is 110/220 single phase and currently wired for 220 with three wires. I want to wire the thing for 110 but there is no wiring diagrams in either the rotary reversing switch or the shell on the back with the capacitor in it.

It looks like six wires coming out of the motor shell and run to different posts on the switch. The wires from the plug go to the first two poles on the lower switch and the third to a frame ground. Do I just make one leg the line and the other nuetral leaving the ground as is or is there some magic swicheroo involved with the motor wiring?


 
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Post by grumpy » Sun. Sep. 04, 2016 2:23 pm

220 is better than 110 so why do you want to do this ?

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sun. Sep. 04, 2016 2:30 pm

It is a dual voltage machine, that's why I got it. Don't have 220 in the garage yet. Not going into production, just want to mill down a piece of steel.

 
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Post by grumpy » Sun. Sep. 04, 2016 2:43 pm

Is it 220 three phase or single ?

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sun. Sep. 04, 2016 2:55 pm

20160904_145309.jpg

Motor Plate

.JPG | 50.1KB | 20160904_145309.jpg
110/220 single phase.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sun. Sep. 04, 2016 3:02 pm

Here is the reversing switch with the wires coming from the plug. Big wires on the outside lower terminals are black and white, the third goes to the frame as a ground. Black to line and white is neutral and ground as is?
The switch cover has no wiring diagram, just a horsepower chart.
20160904_145842.jpg
.JPG | 64.1KB | 20160904_145842.jpg

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sun. Sep. 04, 2016 3:28 pm



 
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Sep. 04, 2016 3:41 pm

I looked into something like this a long time ago with a table saw - that motor had two sets of windings, they could either be wired in series or in parallel for 120v or 240v. If you can't find the info for that specific motor, a local motor shop should be able to point you in the right direction.

Personally I would run 240v to the garage and be done with it. If that isn't on the job list for this weekend, a portable generator might be a quick solution for your milling job.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sun. Sep. 04, 2016 4:10 pm

I would think a wiring plate would be on the motor if the wiring needs changing, just not sure enough to try it without knowing something about it.

 
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Post by grumpy » Sun. Sep. 04, 2016 8:07 pm

I would just run a 220 line myself. Maybe this will help.

http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/elec-mtr/elec-mtr.html

 
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Post by grumpy » Sun. Sep. 04, 2016 8:09 pm

CS I can't read the model number, trying to help out can you post that number.

 
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Sep. 04, 2016 8:51 pm

CS, See what this does for you. :)

Here's your 240 v if you left it alone???
Image

Here's what it must change to:
latheandch790drumswitch2.jpg
.JPG | 70KB | latheandch790drumswitch2.jpg
Last edited by McGiever on Mon. Sep. 05, 2016 7:34 pm, edited 6 times in total.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Sun. Sep. 04, 2016 9:37 pm

By Jove I think he's got it! :) The top one looks like what we have here. Everything I've seen points to some of those wires have to be swapped around coming from the motor. I'll look at it in the morning, I didn't see any numbers on the wires and they all appear to be the same color. :shock:

This garage is detatched and quite a distance from the house. I've upgraded the house to 200 amp and have conduit to run but no wire as yet. The mill has been there 3 years and not one chip, I need to light it up.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Mon. Sep. 05, 2016 8:55 am

I pulled the drawbar for a better shot at the data plate. It has 6 wires coming from the motor to the switch, all black and I could only see one numbered. My biggest concern is there isn't much free wire, looks like I may not have the length to move them around on the switch.
20160905_084721.jpg
.JPG | 73.5KB | 20160905_084721.jpg

 
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Sep. 05, 2016 6:14 pm

Sorry been away till now. :)
And I found some better diagrams, at least for me they are better. Edited yesterdays diagrams posted above.

Basically, you are just changing from what was working for 240 volts over to be 120 volts now.
coaledsweat_ID.jpg
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Here's my take on what you have, I've added ID's in pic to all wires. :)
IMPORTANT: T2 and T3 will needed sorted out as to which one is which, because we will be splitting them apart for the 120v hookup, that sorting can be done w/ a continuity or ohms meter.
Numbers T1 and T2 are low or shorted to one another and likewise T3 and T4 are to be low or shorted to one another. Mark them accordingly as all the others I ID'd in the pic.

Changes to wiring inside that drum switch look to be not many major moves...you may have just enough wire length. :)
But, if it comes to working with those short wires you can just pull them six short wires back out of the switch and route them into a splice/junction box. Then from the added JB you may splice longer length pieces of wire to do whatever comes in the drum switch. Remember...current at 120v will now be double what it was at before at 240V, so no "skimping" on wire sizes. :o


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