Any product for fixing copper leak at solder joint?

 
ColdHouse
Member
Posts: 1962
Joined: Thu. Nov. 08, 2012 12:06 pm
Location: Bristol, CT

Post by ColdHouse » Sat. Nov. 25, 2023 10:45 am

CoalisCoolxWarm wrote:
Sat. Nov. 25, 2023 10:26 am
My go to for outside tight spots

sandpaper.PNG

Inside is a regular brush

Brush.PNG

HVAC buddy of mine cuts the handle off and uses it in a cordless drill ;)
Good tools/consumables.

 
User avatar
Richard S.
Mayor
Posts: 15028
Joined: Fri. Oct. 01, 2004 8:35 pm
Location: NEPA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert VA1200
Coal Size/Type: Buckwheat/Anthracite

Post by Richard S. » Sat. Nov. 25, 2023 10:48 am

Those shark bites are ideal if you have water and it's impossible to solder. All this stuff was new and didn't have water in it until the first test. I prefer copper and solder because I know if it doesn't leak it will probably never leak.

 
User avatar
carlherrnstein
Member
Posts: 1525
Joined: Tue. Feb. 07, 2012 8:49 am
Location: Clarksburg, ohio
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: combustioneer model 77B
Coal Size/Type: pea stoker/Ohio bituminous

Post by carlherrnstein » Sat. Nov. 25, 2023 7:10 pm

Richard S. wrote:
Sat. Nov. 25, 2023 10:48 am
Those shark bites are ideal if you have water and it's impossible to solder. All this stuff was new and didn't have water in it until the first test. I prefer copper and solder because I know if it doesn't leak it will probably never leak.
I'm glad you got it sorted out, plumbing can be a real nightmare, drains are worse IMO.

My neighbor is a new commercial plumber, he plumbed most of the sky scrapers in Columbus Ohio and a lot of the Krogers an Meijers in central Ohio. He swears by doing an air pressure test on all copper BEFORE you turn the water on. I've helped him with some side jobs and it doesn't take long at all to see if there's a leak an it's easy to find with a jar of kids bubble solution, plus it doesn't have water that needs drained out.


 
User avatar
Richard S.
Mayor
Posts: 15028
Joined: Fri. Oct. 01, 2004 8:35 pm
Location: NEPA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert VA1200
Coal Size/Type: Buckwheat/Anthracite

Post by Richard S. » Thu. Nov. 30, 2023 8:16 am

arggggh, it's still leaking and now I have the floor down on the one side. The floor is not in the way to fix it but that is where a lot of the heat was getting blown. It's going to be a bitch cutting it out but I'm going to have to put a shark bite onto it. It's a very minor leak and running down the pipe into the basement. I have some other stuff on my plate so I'll be fixing it in a few days.

 
nut
Member
Posts: 1181
Joined: Wed. Aug. 28, 2019 1:54 pm
Location: NEPA
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glacier Bay
Coal Size/Type: nut
Other Heating: electric

Post by nut » Thu. Nov. 30, 2023 8:38 am

Plumbing is like that. Even when you get it right, down the road things start leaking. Hair line cracks appear in brass valves. Braided connectors start dripping. And plumbing is a dirty job. Hands and clothes get filthy. Emergency calls at all hours. The pros are worth every penny.

 
User avatar
BigBarney
Member
Posts: 1758
Joined: Wed. Feb. 08, 2006 2:48 pm

Post by BigBarney » Fri. Dec. 01, 2023 3:18 pm

Is there room for a slip joint or dresser coupling?

Good to 150 psi and available in brass,copper,and plastic...

BigBarney


 
ColdHouse
Member
Posts: 1962
Joined: Thu. Nov. 08, 2012 12:06 pm
Location: Bristol, CT

Post by ColdHouse » Sun. Dec. 03, 2023 11:00 am

Always the hardest item to fix that is problematic.

 
User avatar
Richard S.
Mayor
Posts: 15028
Joined: Fri. Oct. 01, 2004 8:35 pm
Location: NEPA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert VA1200
Coal Size/Type: Buckwheat/Anthracite

Post by Richard S. » Sun. Dec. 03, 2023 12:20 pm

It's the chicken or the egg deal. It's leaking because it was the hard item to begin with.

 
ColdHouse
Member
Posts: 1962
Joined: Thu. Nov. 08, 2012 12:06 pm
Location: Bristol, CT

Post by ColdHouse » Sat. Dec. 09, 2023 9:49 am

My son owns a two family that I used to own. It has (2) identical boilers in the basement. Each boiler on its own is capable of heating the entire house. When I first had the home and boilers installed, I set up a couple of ball valves so I could have domestic hot water to both units from one boiler. At that time only the downstairs was finished but I wanted to be able to use the bathroom and shower upstairs. It is nothing more than turning a couple of valves into the opposite direction. Over the years this has proved to be useful because thermocouple failure or ?? rendered one of the boilers not working.

I have suggested to him that he would be wise to do the same thing with the heating loops. Hook them so they can be independent or simply turn a couple valves and be able to run entire house off of either boiler. It is never any fun having a failed heating system when -20 and blizzard.

I know there is a sizable coil of orange high heat PEX that was used for the boiler on an addition. Today we will look at the boilers and make a list of things he should purchase to bypass one or the other boilers. I looked up Sharkbite for boiler use and they say no issue. That is probably the way I will tell him to go or at least let him make up his own mind with the information. I know that if he had Sharkbite fittings and PEX the job could be done very quickly. He could even just purchase the supplies and wait to do it until a boiler component failed. Sure is nice to have a temporary fix for heat when there is none.

 
User avatar
Richard S.
Mayor
Posts: 15028
Joined: Fri. Oct. 01, 2004 8:35 pm
Location: NEPA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert VA1200
Coal Size/Type: Buckwheat/Anthracite

Post by Richard S. » Sat. Dec. 09, 2023 10:27 am

Lots of problems in this house I need to deal with. There is 7 rooms on each side each with a bathroom upstairs on each side. There is a third bathroom on one side off of one of the backrooms. The two backrooms are connected so you can walk from one side of the house to the other and these are quite sizable.

The idea is to change those rooms into small but really nice apartment for myself and that is something happening in the next year.

The interior of the house was last remodeled in the early 70's BUT it's all like new. I'm just going to rent both sides over the next few years and bank the money. When I have enough I'll tear out one side and fully renovate. It's long term project and I'll have to take it in chunks. Full renovation is the only choice, I have paneling over plaster walls that are uninsulated through most of the house. Most of the wiring is 2 wire BX done in the 60's..... Down to the studs is the only way to go.

Post Reply

Return to “House, Gardening & DIY Projects”