5w20 5w30
- carlherrnstein
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I have seen how this type of thread can degenerate into hominids throwing poo, so beware and wear your boots cause it might get deep.
This is the situation I have a 06 toyota corrola it calls for 5w30 oil and I also have a 14 dodge journey it calls for 5w20 oil. My dilemma is I am considering buying bulk motor oil because "reasons" an I only have room for 1 barrel.
I think I will get 5w20 and use it in both. The Toyota has +200k miles and doesn't lose any *currently* the dodge has 90k miles and seems to be just broken in.
What do you all think?
This is the situation I have a 06 toyota corrola it calls for 5w30 oil and I also have a 14 dodge journey it calls for 5w20 oil. My dilemma is I am considering buying bulk motor oil because "reasons" an I only have room for 1 barrel.
I think I will get 5w20 and use it in both. The Toyota has +200k miles and doesn't lose any *currently* the dodge has 90k miles and seems to be just broken in.
What do you all think?
- anthony7812
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They both provide the same viscosity in cold weather, however warm weather is where the different will lie. Always stick with engine recommendations in my opinion, but some will argue. At 200k miles why change ? You can always look up temperature and viscosity curves and make a decision. All engines aren’t the same when it comes to lube passages and stuff like that keep in mind.
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I am with Rob. Plus I am returning to the old school as I feel the 5W oils are for the CAFE standards set by gov. Not in your interests. I am currently using 15W-40 in my 6.4 Hemi. It calls for 0W-40. I don't need 0W oil in Tennessee.
99.5 % of people who think they know about motor oil don’t. I was one of them.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
https://bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
- warminmn
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Given the choice, if Im forced to pick between weights, I will always choose the lightest weight over the higher. Ive seen hundreds of engines being rebuilt and the bearings and crankshafts that saw higher weight oil had more wear on average, not counting stock car engines. its mostly the startup that matters with that.
They used to recommend straight 30W or 40W for hot summer driving and now recommend 5w20. Theres a reason.
But its best to use what is recommended.
You should have asked what brand too, and what oil filter if you really want to stir a hornets nest Carl, LOL
I need to read all of Grumpy's link but its too late in the night...
it does look informative.
They used to recommend straight 30W or 40W for hot summer driving and now recommend 5w20. Theres a reason.
But its best to use what is recommended.
You should have asked what brand too, and what oil filter if you really want to stir a hornets nest Carl, LOL
I need to read all of Grumpy's link but its too late in the night...
it does look informative.
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I agree with warminmn. If you want to stay with one oil in bulk for both, I'd go with the 5W20. Toyota back-spec'd 5W20 for some models that used 5W30, but I don't know that for certain on a '06 Corolla. The last couple of gens of Corolla engines are 0W20 only due to VVT solenoids. If I lived in the deep South I might think differently on the Corolla.
- anthony7812
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Just a tip a 5w-30 has the same warm weather characteristics of 15w-30. It’s not your dads oil anymore. It’s about viscosity or lubricity at certain temps. That’s all. So you toss in some straight 30weight oil, don’t expect to not hear some knockin after a good winter or 2.
Oil has a decent part in making that 200k mark nowadays. I remember grandpop sayin 100k was a hell of a mileage in the 60’s -80’s.
Oil has a decent part in making that 200k mark nowadays. I remember grandpop sayin 100k was a hell of a mileage in the 60’s -80’s.
- Rob R.
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And there are SAE 30 engine oils that meet the cold flow performance of a 15w-30, thanks to a higher viscosity index of today's base stocks. I agree that things have changed a lot in the last 30-40 years.
The difference in viscosity at operating temperature between a 5w20 and 5w30 is quite small, and some in cases there is no difference at all, depending on how long the oil has been in service. e.g. A "high mileage" 5w20 will be at the high end of the viscosity spec, and a 5w30 with a few thousand miles on it will have likely sheared down a bit. I am sure both of the vehicles mentioned would run a long time on either oil, but consider that when the OEM's can back-spec a lighter oil, they typically do. If that is not the case with your Corrola, I would just stick with 5w-30.
One more thing - the savings from a 55 gallon drum of oil compared to quarts or gallons is not large. You can probably save just as much by watching for rebates or promotions on an oil of your choice, or buying a house brand oil.
The difference in viscosity at operating temperature between a 5w20 and 5w30 is quite small, and some in cases there is no difference at all, depending on how long the oil has been in service. e.g. A "high mileage" 5w20 will be at the high end of the viscosity spec, and a 5w30 with a few thousand miles on it will have likely sheared down a bit. I am sure both of the vehicles mentioned would run a long time on either oil, but consider that when the OEM's can back-spec a lighter oil, they typically do. If that is not the case with your Corrola, I would just stick with 5w-30.
One more thing - the savings from a 55 gallon drum of oil compared to quarts or gallons is not large. You can probably save just as much by watching for rebates or promotions on an oil of your choice, or buying a house brand oil.
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The last chart I saw, 15W-40 was good down to about -20.....I think that will suffice in S Tennessee. I look at the last number not the first. I have a large truck and big motor, I want an oil that resists shearing. The thought that it does not flow is outdated. On a cool morning here, I have about 60+ oil pressure and in the 50's warmed up and running. You bet it flows.
- Rob R.
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Generally conventional 15w-40 is not recommended below 15F. A syn blend can go lower.KLook wrote: ↑Sat. Dec. 04, 2021 8:15 amThe last chart I saw, 15W-40 was good down to about -20.....I think that will suffice in S Tennessee. I look at the last number not the first. I have a large truck and big motor, I want an oil that resists shearing. The thought that it does not flow is outdated. On a cool morning here, I have about 60+ oil pressure and in the 50's warmed up and running. You bet it flows.
- carlherrnstein
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I know this from having to track down appropriate alternate lubricating oils for machinery. There are no less than 4 units of measure for viscosity iso#, sae#, sybolt seconds, and centipoise there are probably more.
Lubricating oils are different from motor oil and have a continuous arc of viscosity change with temperature change. Motor oils are magic, they act like a thicker oil at high temperature for how thin they are at low temperature. Which is why it's not good to use multi-weight motor oil in place of lubricating oil for some applications generally they are too "thin" at room temperature which is where most machine bearings are happy but, straight weight oil is recommended for a lot or stuff.
I have been told (by oil salesman) that multi-weight oil is a thin oil with additives that somehow slow the rate of change in viscosity as the temperature increases. So they are a oil of the first # with additives that make it act like a oil of the second # at a higher temperature. For example 5w30 is sae 5 oil that magically acts like sae 30 at say 200 degrees.
The idea that oil shears down with use is a accurate way to describe the change in properties but, it's not a change in the oil molecules they are the same size and can't be changed like that in use as motor oil, the additives break down and don't work the same.
So based on my understanding the first number is the most important when substituting oil. It should be the same or at least one weight up or down. The film strength difference between 5w20 and 5w30 at 200* is not enough IMO to matter so long as it doesn't leak out of a seal.
Now for the "reasons" I have been having problems finding anything other than 10w30. In my area there have been seemingly random shortages of different items at multiple stores. The oil I'm about to put in the toyota is the last jug of 5w30 oil rural king had on the shelf. I figure if I have a barrel of it I won't have that problem and the value of money is only going down so if I stock up I have locked in its price. I have a few oil filters for both vehicles for that reason.
I always ran mobile one full synthetic in everything including the lawnmower an when it broke $20 a jug I switched to the cheapest full synthetic I could find. For motor oil full synthetic is the best.
Lubricating oils are different from motor oil and have a continuous arc of viscosity change with temperature change. Motor oils are magic, they act like a thicker oil at high temperature for how thin they are at low temperature. Which is why it's not good to use multi-weight motor oil in place of lubricating oil for some applications generally they are too "thin" at room temperature which is where most machine bearings are happy but, straight weight oil is recommended for a lot or stuff.
I have been told (by oil salesman) that multi-weight oil is a thin oil with additives that somehow slow the rate of change in viscosity as the temperature increases. So they are a oil of the first # with additives that make it act like a oil of the second # at a higher temperature. For example 5w30 is sae 5 oil that magically acts like sae 30 at say 200 degrees.
The idea that oil shears down with use is a accurate way to describe the change in properties but, it's not a change in the oil molecules they are the same size and can't be changed like that in use as motor oil, the additives break down and don't work the same.
So based on my understanding the first number is the most important when substituting oil. It should be the same or at least one weight up or down. The film strength difference between 5w20 and 5w30 at 200* is not enough IMO to matter so long as it doesn't leak out of a seal.
Now for the "reasons" I have been having problems finding anything other than 10w30. In my area there have been seemingly random shortages of different items at multiple stores. The oil I'm about to put in the toyota is the last jug of 5w30 oil rural king had on the shelf. I figure if I have a barrel of it I won't have that problem and the value of money is only going down so if I stock up I have locked in its price. I have a few oil filters for both vehicles for that reason.
I always ran mobile one full synthetic in everything including the lawnmower an when it broke $20 a jug I switched to the cheapest full synthetic I could find. For motor oil full synthetic is the best.