1997 Suburban
- SMITTY
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- Location: West-Central Mass
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Oh yeah, forgot yours was built in the last century, when vehicles were still somewhat reliable! Not surprised you've gone that long on the driveline. Most pre-2007 trucks made it that far and then some without much trouble.
I couldn't even make it to 40k on my ball joints in my '07, if that's any indicator ...
I couldn't even make it to 40k on my ball joints in my '07, if that's any indicator ...
- Rob R.
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- Location: Chazy, NY
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We have had some nice weather recently and I have been venturing farther out with the Suburban. I finally achieved 15 mpg on a tank of gas, but only after adding about 15 gallons of premium to see if that made a difference. It seems that the old 350 does do a bit better with 89 octane, which isn't a surprise for a high mileage mill that probably has some "octane creep" due to carbon deposits. I'll treat the next tankful with some fuel conditioner and give it some heavy throttle on my next venture into the mountains.
New problem: the driveline has developed quite a vibration at speeds over 60 MPH with heavy throttle. I notice this when merging onto the interstate, or passing a car. As soon as I let off the throttle, the vibration goes away. It looks like the u-joints are original, so I will start there.
New problem: the driveline has developed quite a vibration at speeds over 60 MPH with heavy throttle. I notice this when merging onto the interstate, or passing a car. As soon as I let off the throttle, the vibration goes away. It looks like the u-joints are original, so I will start there.
- SMITTY
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- Posts: 12525
- Joined: Sun. Dec. 11, 2005 12:43 pm
- Location: West-Central Mass
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520 Highboy
- Coal Size/Type: Rice / Blaschak anthracite
- Other Heating: Oil fired Burnham boiler
It's 100% build-quality related. My '94 K1500 went over 225k miles on the original ball joints (and hub bearings), my '86 Marquis went 200k on the originals, and the Volvo went 170k.
I've had to run premium in my Silverado since it rolled off the showroom. Thing knocked on the test drive when I stuffed it to the rug on Rt.49 near the dealership. Had 45 miles on the clock then. When I started towing it became clear this engine wasn't going to make it if I didn't just run premium at all times. Even on premium, it'll knock if I push it too hard.
Yep, classic dry or worn u-joint symptom there.
One time I had a neighbor's Volvo 940 wagon that had a vibration only when slowing to a stop between 15-0 MPH. Was the strangest thing! Was smooth as glass at all speeds and all loads, accelerating or decelerating. Light on the brakes, was smooth as glass, but stop normally or aggressively and it would shake your fillings out of your teeth. I was baffled. Out of ideas, I dropped the driveshaft and found 2 caps 180° apart on the rear u-joint that were BONE dry and seized solid!! The other 2 on the other plane were perfect! Go figure that one! Never saw that in my life. When braking, the pinion of the rear diff pitched forward, aggravating the seized caps. Was an interesting one to say the least!
Here's a stock one from a Ford Ranger - over 300k on this one!! Pretty impressive - wasn't all that bad!
- Rob R.
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I have only heard the Suburban have audible “ping” with Sam’s Club 87 octane gas, and that was when it was lugging in overdrive. I have never heard it ping with gasoline from major brands, but it does seem like it performs a bit better with mid grade. It could probably use a dose of Seafoam or GM Top Engine Cleaner.
- SMITTY
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- Posts: 12525
- Joined: Sun. Dec. 11, 2005 12:43 pm
- Location: West-Central Mass
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520 Highboy
- Coal Size/Type: Rice / Blaschak anthracite
- Other Heating: Oil fired Burnham boiler
Good part about that truck is you've still got adjustable timing. To a point - will throw a light if you go too far.
Back in the day, I used to advance the timing so far that I HAD to run premium - that way I could leave rubber in 1st - 3rd gears everywhere.
I actually prefer a V8 to knock on 87 - that just means there's more power to be had by running a higher octane fuel.
Back in the day, I used to advance the timing so far that I HAD to run premium - that way I could leave rubber in 1st - 3rd gears everywhere.
I actually prefer a V8 to knock on 87 - that just means there's more power to be had by running a higher octane fuel.
- Rob R.
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The u-joint job has not gone quite as I had planned. For starters, you can't get a socket on the bolts that hold the rear u-joint on the yoke. I gave it as much power as I dared with a box wrench, but I could tell it was getting close to rounded the bolts off. I ended up having to knock the other to bearing caps out and remove the drive shaft, then it was easy to get on those bolts. The rear u-joint was definitely stiff, but I didn't think it was bad enough to cause a vibration. I guess we will see. I got everything apart pretty easily and shined everything up for reassembly, then I ended up having the yoke slip out of the vice and knock two of the new bearing caps off the bench. Of course half the needle bearings fell out in the grit/dirt and I could not find them all.
I got the second one together without any issue, but no one has another u-joint in stock. O'Reilly Auto Parts must only keep two on the shelf, and I bought them both last week. I wanted to get it done this weekend but I can wait a few days. I kind of wish I had gotten sealed u-joints, it looks like it will be very tough to get a grease gun on these. I'll grease them before I install the driveshaft and hope for the best.
I got the second one together without any issue, but no one has another u-joint in stock. O'Reilly Auto Parts must only keep two on the shelf, and I bought them both last week. I wanted to get it done this weekend but I can wait a few days. I kind of wish I had gotten sealed u-joints, it looks like it will be very tough to get a grease gun on these. I'll grease them before I install the driveshaft and hope for the best.
Attachments
- davidmcbeth3
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You can still put in sealed ones if you like. Easy now. One does not want to "over-vise" a part...then the thing wriggles away. Been there, done that. Neat how you got the part off...me? I would have put a breaker bar on the wrench and gone for broke.
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You forgot the N.davidmcbeth3 wrote: ↑Sat. Jun. 03, 2023 5:19 pmYou can still put in sealed ones if you like. Easy now. One does not want to "over-vise" a part...then the thing wriggles away. Been there, done that. Neat how you got the part off...me? I would have put a breaker bar on the wrench and gone for broke.
- Rob R.
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- Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
- Location: Chazy, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
Yeah, if I want to buy another pair...which I don't. I mentioned it to my dad and he said he would check his toolbox for a grease fitting adaptor, made to get into tight spaces.
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If he finds it, please post brand or model. I could use one but have never seen one.
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https://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-06135-Right-Greas ... UXXES?th=1waytomany?s wrote: ↑Sun. Jun. 04, 2023 8:40 amIf he finds it, please post brand or model. I could use one but have never seen one.
- Rob R.
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 18004
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
- Location: Chazy, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
The one that dad described looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-Narrow-Needle-Di ... K9CZ&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-Narrow-Needle-Di ... K9CZ&psc=1
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- Member
- Posts: 1490
- Joined: Wed. Aug. 28, 2019 1:54 pm
- Location: NEPA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glacier Bay
- Coal Size/Type: nut
- Other Heating: electric
What's up with attachments? Yours and mine aren't showing for me anyway.Rob R. wrote: ↑Sun. Jun. 04, 2023 10:03 amThe one that dad described looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-Narrow-Needle-Di ... K9CZ&psc=1