Need advice on GDI engine induction cleaning

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 10:55 am

We have a 2.4L KIA/Hyundai GDI engine in our 2016 KIA Sorento, and we are at 34,000 miles. KIA is recommending that we get their $160 induction cleaning service performed to clean carbon deposits off of the intake valves (since with direct injection fuel is injected directly into the cylinders below the valves and therefore fuel does not pass over the valves to clean them).

Is this service bunk, or should we listen to KIA and have this service performed? Or is it something that can be done at home for far less than $160? KIA is recommending that we have it done every 30,000 miles.


 
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 11:00 am

Seafoam products may eliminate the need for such services...

Administered by liquid/fuel route and/or by air pathways passing over/through valves.
Last edited by McGiever on Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 11:10 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by lsayre » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 11:08 am

McGiever wrote:
Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 11:00 am
Seafoam products may eliminate the need for such services...

Administered by fuel and/or by air pathways.
Does Seafoam come in a spray that can be injected into the air inlet? I did some reading, and the gunk that collects on the top of the valves comes from the PCV valve. This same problem exists for all GDI engines, regardless of manufacturer. One site recommended installing something called a "catch can" on the discharge side of the PCV valve.
Last edited by lsayre on Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 11:14 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 11:10 am

yes it does

lot of internet discussion out there of others experiences...

 
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Post by lsayre » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 11:16 am

McGiever wrote:
Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 11:10 am
yes it does

lot of internet discussion out there of others experiences...
I came across CRC's GDI Injector Cleaner spray. Likely the two are quite similar.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 11:26 am

Yes, Seafoam has a spray can for the intake. You run it at at high idle, set the can off and run the can out. When done, you let it cook, then let it sit. After that, take it out and thrash it, clean as a whistle when done. Did this on my F350, plugs came out looking like new. Zero carbon.

 
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 11:31 am

lsayre wrote:
Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 11:16 am
I came across CRC's GDI Injector Cleaner spray. Likely the two are quite similar.
Might be??? Seafoam has a pretty good following and often is offered at a "teaser" discount ad price...


 
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Post by lsayre » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 11:45 am

coaledsweat wrote:
Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 11:26 am
Yes, Seafoam has a spray can for the intake. You run it at at high idle, set the can off and run the can out. When done, you let it cook, then let it sit. After that, take it out and thrash it, clean as a whistle when done. Did this on my F350, plugs came out looking like new. Zero carbon.
Thanks Coaledsweat!

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 12:39 pm

I was pretty worried about pulling the plugs on my 5.4 because of all the horror storys of them breaking off and pulling the threds out of the aluminum head. I barley needed a wrench to pull them. It will smoke pretty good for a bit afterward but clears up pretty quick. Read and follow the directions on the can. Note: they have a spray can and a fogger, you want the fogger. Slip the Seafoam tube into the induction where the big hose connects to the throttle body and off you go.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 1:15 pm

lsayre wrote:
Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 11:16 am
I came across CRC's GDI Injector Cleaner spray. Likely the two are quite similar.
The CRC product is specifically made for this purpose, and would be my choice if you think the treatment is necessary. Personally I think a lot of dealers push the treatment for something that is not a problem for everyone.

The 3.5L Ecoboost engine in my Expedition has direct injection, and I am up to 60,000 miles with no loss in power or economy. I have been told that conventional carbon removal products like Seafoam can damage the turbos on my engine, so I will seek out the CRC product if I ever feel a cleaning is necessary.

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 2:29 pm

FYI,
It's been long known that the water injection system kits that were used when raising the compression on street/race engines in the muscle car era, and for not needing an intercooler on low boost turbocharged engines, has the added benefit of removing carbon. I made a simple water /alcohol injection system for the 5-10 psi turbo system I was building for my AMX.

It used pressure bled from the boost side of the intake system plumbed through a simple flow check valve to pressure the sealed water/alcohol tank and pump the mix through a copper tubing nozzle mounted in the air cleaner. Any boost and the check valve opened letting water/alcohol mix get sprayed into the carb's air intake. The more the boost pressure increased the more mix got sprayed in. Very simple, reliable system.

Low compression prewar antique car engines are very prone to carbon buildup. Many owners have for decades been using Marvel Mystery Oil added to the gas tank to remove carbon in the intake system and upper cylinders.

Paul

 
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Post by cabinover » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 2:42 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:
Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 2:29 pm


...Many owners have for decades been using Marvel Mystery Oil added to the gas tank to remove carbon in the intake system and upper cylinders.

Paul
True, but it won't help Larry's car. It's too bad though, MMO is some amazing stuff.

 
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Post by lsayre » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 3:06 pm

In all of the new fangled GDI (gasoline direct injection) engines the top (or stem) side of the valves is only touched by combustion air. Not by fuel. Any fuel additive will not touch the problem area. Any cleaning agent must be swept in along with combustion air.

 
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Post by titleist1 » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 3:14 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:
Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 2:29 pm
FYI,
It's been long known that the water injection system kits that were used when raising the compression on street/race engines in the muscle car era, and for not needing an intercooler on low boost turbocharged engines, has the added benefit of removing carbon. I made a simple water /alcohol injection system for the 5-10 psi turbo system I was building for my AMX.

It used pressure bled from the boost side of the intake system plumbed through a simple flow check valve to pressure the sealed water/alcohol tank and pump the mix through a copper tubing nozzle mounted in the air cleaner. Any boost and the check valve opened letting water/alcohol mix get sprayed into the carb's air intake. The more the boost pressure increased the more mix got sprayed in. Very simple, reliable system.

Low compression prewar antique car engines are very prone to carbon buildup. Many owners have for decades been using Marvel Mystery Oil added to the gas tank to remove carbon in the intake system and upper cylinders.

Paul
Are you channeling Freetown Fred?!?!?!?!?!? Has he somehow taken over your user account???!!!! :lol: :clap:

Next you'll be telling us to use ATF in two stroke's!! :out:

Way back in the dark ages of high school years i imitated a mosquito fogger for longer than I should have due to a head gasket issue with my first car. And when taking it apart, i noticed how nice and shiny the steam cleaning made the guts. It actually ran great after putting it back together with minimal left over parts. 50+ years later, my Dad still says he was shocked i got it back together and running after seeing the parts strewn around the garage! :D

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 3:55 pm

titleist1 wrote:
Mon. Jan. 14, 2019 3:14 pm
Are you channeling Freetown Fred?!?!?!?!?!? Has he somehow taken over your user account???!!!! :lol:

Next you'll be telling us to use ATF in two stroke's!!

Way back in the dark ages of high school years i imitated a mosquito fogger for longer than I should have due to a head gasket issue with my first car. And when taking it apart, i noticed how nice and shiny the steam cleaning made the guts. It actually ran great after putting it back together with minimal left over parts. 50+ years later, my Dad still says he was shocked i got it back together and running after seeing the parts strewn around the garage! :D
:D

For what it's worth, as a kid, I was using Marvel Mystery Oil in boat engines back when Fred was clawing his way through Nam jungles.

Marvel Mystery Oil has been in use since shortly after WWI. And MMO was just one of many companies like it. Special oil injector kits for intake systems were common accessories on many early cars and boat engines to prevent carbon build up on valves and upper piston rings.

When I worked in boat yards, most boat mechanics smelled like MMO because they used it so much. It was not uncommon to open the engine hatches and see MMO inverse oiler systems installed on the engines, even small inboards. We also had MMP inverse oilers hooked up to each of the Chrysler L-head engines for our hauling car winch motors. It was the only thing that kept the engine valves and rings from carbon-ing up and sticking - an all-too-common occurrence for engines that lived down in wet bilges, with marginal cooling, and only saw occasional use.

Mention MMO at an antique car show and you'll be amazed at how many car owners are using it at every tank fill up. ;)

Paul


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