Ford 861

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Thu. Aug. 25, 2016 10:46 am

I just bought a Ford 861 that I have been chasing for a while. The good news is that I am kinda following Robs ideas, like his 801 but gas. The terrifying news is that I am exactly following Stings choice and that means I probably need therapy.

http://images.craigslist.org/00404_l2oxmpwccNJ_1200x900.jpg

811: Select-O-Speed, no PTO
821: Four-speed, no PTO or 3-point
841: Four-speed
851: Five-speed
861: Five speed, live PTO
871: Select-O-Speed
881: Select-O-Speed, dual-speed PTO


 
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Post by Rob R. » Thu. Aug. 25, 2016 11:14 am

That looks like a very clean/straight tractor. Basically the same as ours except for the fuel choice.

Still 6 volt?

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Thu. Aug. 25, 2016 12:33 pm

12v and a new engine and tranny. Our NAA is beat to death and we need a little more power.

 
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Post by jubileejerry » Thu. Aug. 25, 2016 3:30 pm

That looks like a nice tractor. One of my favorites.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Thu. Aug. 25, 2016 3:50 pm

coalnewbie wrote:12v and a new engine and tranny.
That makes it even better. Now you have no excuse to run that godawful non detergent engine oil.

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Thu. Aug. 25, 2016 4:06 pm

If it's good enough for JJ then it's good enough for me. JJ and Rob know all this stuff but if any newbie is following me here:

if it is 12v.. a napa IC 14SB coil is proper.. with no resistors.

if it is 6v, a IC8 coil is proper.

if it uses a filter element.. a napa 1004 ( should cross to a fram ch6pl.. but I know 1004 napa is corrrect ).

if it is a spin on.. then the following fit.

motorcraft fl1a

fram ph8a

supertech st8a

dual 300

napa 1452 or a 1515 though latter is an auto application.. former is better.

ps.. don't forget to remove and clean the oil bath air filter. it likes a diesel bath.. and crankcase weight oil in the cup. The steering box would love some lube. It is reccomended 0 or 00 ep grease. jd cornhead grease is a 0 ep.. comes in a tube for your grease gun. cnh dealers sell an ep00 as well, pourable.. and many lawn equip dealers.. especially snapper.. sell a snapper or stens pourable ep 00 grease in a squeezy bottle.Pump in till it extrudes under the steering wheel, then you know the top bearing is happy.

Check the pto shaft immediately for thrust play in/out.. or side play.. if it has either.. pull it during oil change. 4 bolts..e tc. and renew the bearing and seal and check the bearing carrier to see if it lost snap rings or is damaged. likely need a wear ring too. Easy 30m job.

Connect the tractor to a $1MM computer and read out the ECM module.... psst, the new JD big tier 4 tractors run like chit. hahahahhahaa, I slay myself. :)

 
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Post by Rob R. » Thu. Aug. 25, 2016 7:13 pm

coalnewbie wrote:Connect the tractor to a $1MM computer and read out the ECM module.... psst, the new JD big tier 4 tractors run like chit. hahahahhahaa, I slay myself. :)
Did you form that opinion after owning or running one? There are quite a few of them running in my area and I have yet to hear anything bad about them.

I prefer mechanical diesels also, but it is hard to deny that the performance of some of the new equipment is pretty impressive (but the cost is still nuts). It would certainly be better if the govt. didn't have everything choked with emissions equipment, but that is here to stay.

My brother has a Volvo excavator with a Tier 4 engine. It is the most fuel efficient machine he has ever used, starts great in very cold weather, and doesn't put fuel or soot into the engine oil. Here is one of the oil reports from last fall. 1000+ hours on that oil & filter change.
oil report.jpg
.JPG | 243.6KB | oil report.jpg


 
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Post by coalnewbie » Thu. Aug. 25, 2016 7:36 pm

From old man Johnson who owns several hundred acres her and 92 tractors - mostly antiques... HRT (Deere dealer) has not treated him well and he is switching to MF.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Thu. Aug. 25, 2016 7:47 pm

I can't see how that is a step up, but whatever. Form your own judgements.

Grease up the Ford and put it to work.

 
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Post by jubileejerry » Thu. Aug. 25, 2016 10:09 pm

I have to put in my 2 cents. If the tractor has been set up for 12v, it should also have a 12v starter. We get a lot of tractors in that have been converted to 12v but the 6v starter is still there. Some people get along ok with that, but many times we see the starter drive blown to pieces, the teeth have been taken off the ring gear, and some tractors will spin a long time but won't start until you release the starter button. We have decided the starter takes all the juice from the points so they don't fire right, but as soon as you release the button the points get juice and hit so the engine starts. A 12v starter won't do that. Jerry

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Fri. Aug. 26, 2016 8:48 am

I can't see how that is a step up, but whatever. Form your own judgements.
Would not be for me as I can't afford either and with MF there is the depreciation factor. JJ thanks for the tip, I will remember that one.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Fri. Aug. 26, 2016 9:10 am

Jerry, how can you visually tell if a starter is 6V or 12V?

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Fri. Aug. 26, 2016 9:28 am

Internal wire size, 6 volt should use a much bigger wire because it has to carry twice the current.

 
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Post by jubileejerry » Fri. Aug. 26, 2016 7:51 pm

Usually there is a tag with a number on it to use for a reference. We stamp them when we rebuild them and 6v's are painted red and 12's are painted black for our own ID. Internally the field coils are different. There are two coils for 6v and two big and one or two small ones for 12v. I need to look at a package to know for sure on that, but if it has only 2 it's a 6v. The armatures are the same.

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Mon. Aug. 29, 2016 7:56 pm

Wandered over to ol' man Johnson - yep - Deere sucks. One of his bigger tractors has been in the dealer for three months - 3 CPUs and one is not talking to the others and they can't fix it ... He likes Mahindra, not MF. So he whipped out this ancient Ford 9000 ... WOW.

My little choice might be 3038E ... screw that one.



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